Horatio Rock, Wy

Last weekend, staying in the Laramie area, rather than another trip to Lander, a small group of  us went out to Horatio Rock. There are surprisingly few boulders in the Snowy Range, and they tend to be hard to find, but what is there tends to be good to excellent. Horatio Rock is one of those places that stands out from the rest of the local spots. I found the area three seasons back when cutting fire wood in early fall. Never would I have imagined any rock in the area, but there it was. As I turned the trailer around in the small meadow below I noticed the back of a huge boulder hiding in the forest. That boulder was on the local hot list two years back when Guili Zavaschi finished his mega-classic Lord of The Forest V12. Guili didn't actually rate the problem, but did say it was the best he climbed in America. I worked the line with Guili for several sessions before injury to my pinky tendon slowed me down. I rated it based on how it felt to the exit moves, where I fell off several times. I rated the line through the crux moves, but maybe not the red point crux so the grade should hold up. More info here.

Guili, back in the day, moving into the crux sequence of his Lord of The Forest V12.

Anyway, It had been some time since my last visit to Horatio Rock and Lord of The Forest is always on my mind. Seth, Dylan, Dr. Thunder and his lady Rachel, Marla and I all went out to re-visit the boulders. It was quickly obvious that it was too hot to attempt Lord of The Forest, but the place is only partially developed so we went to work having a cleaning and development day. It should be said that Horatio Rock is composed of a fine grain granite of very high quality, but is very sensitive to temperature differences. Maybe more so than anywhere I've bouldered. A warm day will up the grades, a hot day will shut you down. Lord of The Forest was done in the cold as were most of the lines and all have a grade fitted to them in ideal conditions.
We started the day on the Lord of The Forest Boulder and did some of the older warm ups there. One in particular, Lumberjack V4 is a classic for the area.

Dylan on Lumberjack V4. A technical and classic line.

Once the sun started heating the warm ups, we headed to the north side of the mountain to develop some new problems. The north side has a few small boulders, some nice walls, and a larger tower of good stone that provides some bouldering options. It was the right choice to escape the warm temperatures as most of the lines on the north side hide in shadow. We did several good problems and a few fill in problems before the rain chased us away. Some things were cleaned and not yet climbed. I would estimate that the Horatio Rock area is around a third developed at this point. It is my hope that the new kids in town will go out and finish developing the place. Dylan and Seth were both stoked to go back and I know some of the other students new to UW are looking for some first ascents. It is a very good fall destination, so why not?

Seth taking in the knowledge that Dr. Thunder and I keep putting out. This time figuring out (in his mind) the trick foot to Lumberjack V4.

Dylan on the insecure crux move of Momenshun V6/7. One of the new problems put up last weekend. 

Seth on the first move of the new problem Radio V5. ShinToe Slab V1 starts on the crimps left of Seth's upper crimping hand. It is a good slab.

Some of the new lines are indeed shorter. Horatio does hold tall lines that will ruin your season should you spill off, but also some classic sit starts to three move wonders. It is the diversity of bouldering that makes it interesting and Horatio Rock holds a good cross section of that variety. It has been some time since I had spent a day on "little" lines, and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Some people's kids these days, having fun on "little" problems at Horatio Rock on the north side. Each problem is only three or four moves long, but are good! Taller stuff is close near by should you want to clean and climb it. Up to 30' if you like!

In an effort to spur some development around here you can click on the below images and then download them. Fit them to your paper size when you print and you should end up with a usable topo for the area. All I ask is that you keep me updated to what goes up, so we can all keep track. The best thing would be to add comments to this post.
A few things to keep in mind at Horatio Rock this fall, directions, and some topos:
1. The warm up wall on the topo has four or five problems up to V4, but we never named anything, so sorry. Feel free to name those lines and others on that wall, but keep track of it.
2. When you go to the Lord of The Forest Boulder please, please, please contribute to the community and add a log or two to the deck being built under the down hill side of the boulder. It will provide a landing for several classic lines that would otherwise break your leg if you fell off the top. A few trips by a few people and we'll have a good landing! The majority of the forest is dead anyway, so no worries about ethics.
4. If it is not on the topo we haven't climbed it yet. So, The Fox Cave (needs to be rap-cleaned), the summit of Horatio Rock hill, and Chunky Wall are not yet developed. Probably some other walls and boulders are sitting around too. Have some fun!

Horatio Rock Area Overview

Horatio Rock Boulder Problems (see overview for locations of the two areas on the topos)

Directions from Laramie, Wyoming: Drive Wyo Highway 230 to Woods Landing and continue up to Wyo-Colo which is a small mountain village on the side of the road (basically a bar and some cabins). Continue a couple more miles on Wyo 230 to the Colorado border, and take the first right turn (NORTH) off, into the national forest (In total, around 42 miles from Laramie to the turn off on the border). Forest Service Rd. 898 (Pelton Creek Road) for about 5 miles will get you to Horatio Rock. Take the first left off of F.S. Rd. 898, which is either F.S. Rd. 521 or 516. Can't remember the number, but go across the bridge that is over Pelton Creek and park a few hundred yards down that road at the obvious parking area. If you only want to see the North Side Boulders you can park off of 898 a bit up the road at the intersection near Chunky Wall.
Let me know if you have any problems using the topos or finding the place. I'm happy to go up in the afternoons too, so just let me know.

After Party At The Lair

The weekend was a big one for Lander area bouldering. A big crew was assembled from Colorado, Laramie, and Lander to put down some history in the books. Scheduling issues for a few us resulted in a miss of what turned into the main event, the party if you will, which sounded a bit like a really long march up some steep as hell hills. Boulders at the bottom of the hill were the bait and sounded like some good to excellent rock. Monday, was the day I had planned for my party day, and along with David Lloyd, Chris Marley, and Brian Horlick we proceeded. The entirety of the assembled crew in Lander were too pooped to continue on Monday because of two long days before. I was stoked to have that crew there, but would have enjoyed a day in the boulders with them, rather than the brief conversation in a very tired, early morning parking lot. Of the seven who were supposedly pumped to join from Laramie, only Brian committed to a day in the boulders. So, as usual for a Wyoming bouldering day, a small crew of four walked into the Falcon's Lair for the after party.

Some dudes getting ready to party in The Lair

Some good stuff went down during the day and some other good stuff was damn close to going. Brian put up his very first, first ascents, three of them, and you could see the addiction take it's hold. He's a freshman here at UW and had been a follower of this blog prior to deciding on going to Laramie for school. It's a satisfaction finding out that the info on this blog had some influence on a young mind and talent like Brian. He's pumped to develop new rock and he picked the best school in the country for it. When he graduates, he could have hundreds of new problems done. We need more who have that same desire.

Brian all smiles on top of one of his first ascents

David had a highly successful day completing his two objectives. He had a very inspiring repeat of Wind in the Willows V8/9 (yes, that's now a slash grade, but may settle at hard V8), complete with swinging foot cuts in the crux and some true grit for the top out. Not English grit, good western grit, like heavy determination grit. He also finished his super clean rail line he called The Yeti V7, though he claims an ascent with better form is in order. I didn't feel his weight while spotting, but he's claiming a dab. Good honesty and good form I suppose.

David on The Yeti V7. Barn Yard V4? is the very nice lip traverse on the right side.

 

 

 Chris had his first day at the Falcon's lair and was beyond satisfied. He was ridiculously pumped to be in the area and have a chance at putting up the classic lines. His smile was a big one all day long. I was excited to climb with Chris, as we had only been out a single day together in the past and had vowed to meet up for some bouldering. The guy is super strong and it always motivates me to have a go at things with a bit more energy when climbing with a guy like that. He repeated Wind in the Willows and we went straight to work on the big central line of the Ice Cave. We quickly worked out good beta for the amazing opening moves and bouldering crux of the line, then attempted the entirety. It was super cool to be going at it move for move on the steep wall, each time thinking the other would finish the line. We swapped a good number of opportunities for the other to get the line first, but the last goes of the session had us fail on the final hard move, the redpoint crux. The line is a powerful one with good, big dynamic pulling on perfect stone. It is also a touchy classic, hard to finish, and perfect.

Chris on the opening dynamic move of the soon to be.

 Chris and I both rested for a couple of hours in hope of completing the line, but could barely get it started later in the day. Chris also spent part of his rest sending what is absolutely one of the classic lines of the Falcon's Lair. Mortal Angel V?? is a line that we noticed on the first day and every day, but intimidation limited the hope of it going this season. The line is so good, on a previous trip Mr. Capps was heard saying "this rock should be in a museum". I didn't take any pictures of the dyno, since spotting was by far the priority, but there is video coming soon on David Lloyds blog (in addition, some more pictures of the area). On Chris' first go he took a scary fall into rock with few pads. I thought for sure he was broken or worse, but he somehow focused and continued to send the super-classic.  He should be in a museum of men. That's right kids, that's a man right there.
Anyway, the after party was fantastic and if it's not clear here, I'm pumped up to get back. You should be too.

A Man of His Era

10:30 yesterday in the small openness of the Source Gym, from seemingly nowhere in particular, came Dr. Thunder. White sandals, his casual pale polo, and broadly patterned plaid shorts suggesting a changed man. New shades sweeping back longer locks of hair, seen only in his more distant past, suggested a confidence.
We talked of the times, our era, and continued on to the future. The place where dreams go, building foundations for our distant plans. Loosely speaking, and in some moments more serious, we set forth a fantastic agenda. Something of boyhood fantasy, of heroes, but only obtainable by full grown men. A resolute task set forth. To boulder as far as our bodies can endure, on the finest stone, until winter allows us no more.
Then, answering a question understood, yet never asked, Dr. Thunder simply said "I will winter in the Source Gym". Then he was gone.

Dr. Thunder sketching in the night