06 September 2011

After Party At The Lair

The weekend was a big one for Lander area bouldering. A big crew was assembled from Colorado, Laramie, and Lander to put down some history in the books. Scheduling issues for a few us resulted in a miss of what turned into the main event, the party if you will, which sounded a bit like a really long march up some steep as hell hills. Boulders at the bottom of the hill were the bait and sounded like some good to excellent rock. Monday, was the day I had planned for my party day, and along with David Lloyd, Chris Marley, and Brian Horlick we proceeded. The entirety of the assembled crew in Lander were too pooped to continue on Monday because of two long days before. I was stoked to have that crew there, but would have enjoyed a day in the boulders with them, rather than the brief conversation in a very tired, early morning parking lot. Of the seven who were supposedly pumped to join from Laramie, only Brian committed to a day in the boulders. So, as usual for a Wyoming bouldering day, a small crew of four walked into the Falcon's Lair for the after party.
Some dudes getting ready to party in The Lair
Some good stuff went down during the day and some other good stuff was damn close to going. Brian put up his very first, first ascents, three of them, and you could see the addiction take it's hold. He's a freshman here at UW and had been a follower of this blog prior to deciding on going to Laramie for school. It's a satisfaction finding out that the info on this blog had some influence on a young mind and talent like Brian. He's pumped to develop new rock and he picked the best school in the country for it. When he graduates, he could have hundreds of new problems done. We need more who have that same desire.
Brian all smiles on top of one of his first ascents
David had a highly successful day completing his two objectives. He had a very inspiring repeat of Wind in the Willows V8/9 (yes, that's now a slash grade, but may settle at hard V8), complete with swinging foot cuts in the crux and some true grit for the top out. Not English grit, good western grit, like heavy determination grit. He also finished his super clean rail line he called The Yeti V7, though he claims an ascent with better form is in order. I didn't feel his weight while spotting, but he's claiming a dab. Good honesty and good form I suppose.
David on The Yeti V7. Barn Yard V4? is the very nice lip traverse on the right side.  
 Chris had his first day at the Falcon's lair and was beyond satisfied. He was ridiculously pumped to be in the area and have a chance at putting up the classic lines. His smile was a big one all day long. I was excited to climb with Chris, as we had only been out a single day together in the past and had vowed to meet up for some bouldering. The guy is super strong and it always motivates me to have a go at things with a bit more energy when climbing with a guy like that. He repeated Wind in the Willows and we went straight to work on the big central line of the Ice Cave. We quickly worked out good beta for the amazing opening moves and bouldering crux of the line, then attempted the entirety. It was super cool to be going at it move for move on the steep wall, each time thinking the other would finish the line. We swapped a good number of opportunities for the other to get the line first, but the last goes of the session had us fail on the final hard move, the redpoint crux. The line is a powerful one with good, big dynamic pulling on perfect stone. It is also a touchy classic, hard to finish, and perfect.
Chris on the opening dynamic move of the soon to be.
 Chris and I both rested for a couple of hours in hope of completing the line, but could barely get it started later in the day. Chris also spent part of his rest sending what is absolutely one of the classic lines of the Falcon's Lair. Mortal Angel V?? is a line that we noticed on the first day and every day, but intimidation limited the hope of it going this season. The line is so good, on a previous trip Mr. Capps was heard saying "this rock should be in a museum". I didn't take any pictures of the dyno, since spotting was by far the priority, but there is video coming soon on David Lloyds blog (in addition, some more pictures of the area). On Chris' first go he took a scary fall into rock with few pads. I thought for sure he was broken or worse, but he somehow focused and continued to send the super-classic.  He should be in a museum of men. That's right kids, that's a man right there.
Anyway, the after party was fantastic and if it's not clear here, I'm pumped up to get back. You should be too.


  1. Nice write up Davin! The Mortal Angel video is up. Such a good line!

  2. Inspiring post, dude. The ice cave project looks fantastic from this and previous posts. Send it!

  3. Chris finished the Ice Cave Project last Saturday! No name yet, but it's the only problem he's given five stars. Wish I could have made the trip. Now a race for the second.

    Solid V10 or maybe a V11, no a Wyoming V10!

    Nice work Chris