After a quick warmup and the obligatory wander through new boulders to start the day, we went straight to Julian's project. As he re-cleaned it and rehearsed the sequence I finally, after two years, crow-barred the "x-block" out of the roof next to Julian's line. The x-block had always wiggled, but in years past would not completely detach. It is however a 300lb beast, and was far too intimidating to climb on. It now rests in soil defeated while a huge new roof is open for business. I briefly spent a few goes on the roof, wisely leaving it for another day or another climber. It should be V10/11 or so, and of supreme quality. The focus was Julian's roof, so we put the energy there.
|Julian contemplating his project. The x-block still in the roof to the right (x of chalk on it)|
|Rabbit Hole V4|
|How Now Brown Cow V6/7. Starts in the hole down right. Julian is 6'4"ish, so always makes things look small|
Julian repeated Down Town Stickworm Town with a solid effort. I was cold by then and felt like we should just go back to the vehicle. Some sun and calm suggested otherwise, so I jumping-jacked back into semi-warmth. While Julian had been working the previous problem, I notice the project prow next to us had been tried incorrectly the past season. I had tried it from a strange start into a contrived line. The obvious and proud line was a direct prow attack. I cleaned the few holds that exist on the prow and went to work. The line could be a 4.5star! It is like bear hugging the bow of a Viking long ship, reaching as far as you can around each side for barnacles so far apart you're not sure they can be reached by any man. It overhangs steeply. Holds are widely spaced, small and perfect. The rock is outstanding! I almost cried it was so good, or because it worked me over so thoroughly. It is a wild beast that holds my gaze!
|Down Town Stickworm Town V6/7 is behind the two aspen. The prow is obvious|