We went to a top notch area up and behind what is known as the Triple X. Having never bouldered in the newish area (walking it last year), we started on the largest, steepest, and cleanest boulder close to Bryan's jeep. Sort of a warm up went into linking moves on a long and powerful, and steep overhanging prow. All the moves went, but the line is yet another project. This one will go for sure on the next visit.
|Bryan warming up on a new project that should check in around V10 or so.|
Moving pads to Triple X was easy, but I grew nervous near the beauty. I cleaned the holds of old chalk. Added fresh chalk and Super Chalk at that. Cleaned my shoes and tips. Then set forth into the guts of the roof, blew a difficult foot, hopped back on and blew of a side pull, then flopped on my back from a crux move. She was ready for me and showed me once again that climbing is serious business and should be approached with a good repertoire of power and grace, technique, and a pile of cuss words preferably in unique and exotic combinations. I dug into the bag of tricks and none worked. I cussed and laughed, then made progress again and was able to apply my new beta adjustment. The one that I had thought of for 6 months over the winter. It adjusts a fraction of a single move, but saves time and a stupid drop knee that used to sap the hell out me. Now I take it like a stud and climb the move square. I never could in the past, so maybe the source gym did help and give some more to me this year. I repeated all the moves during the re-acquaintance and am ready to give it serious red-point goes on the next visit. It will be done this year!
Bryan finally cleaned the short power problem in the left side of the roof that will share an exit with the Triple X. It climbs exceptionally good rock up a 60 degree belly. In what was a true display of catch a bullet quickness, he snapped a hold and caught it, all in the time to fall from a sit start! Faster than the human brain works they say. Obviously he too is ready for one hell of a good season.
|Dr. Thunder with lighting fast hands|