21 August 2011

Falcon's Lair Update

Yesterday was another day in the Lair. For me a mixed day, but worthwhile. Going in this time with David and Jesse the weather forecast was good, motivation was high, and we had a good number of pads. Warming up in the vicinity of the Lander Boulder a few good new lines went up. Added was a V5 (name not remembered) by David, A V0 and a V3 (names not remembered) by Jesse, and a V3 Dyno I named Boop. The next problem was where my mix came into the day. Pulling very hard on a close left heel, trying a low and powerful roof, my calf went into a solid muscle cramp. The entire muscle balled into a stone hard softball with intense pain. The rest of the day was restricted with a tight and sore left leg. In a strange addition to the mix, all lines I wanted to try involved a left heel move. I gained a massive respect for athletes who play full throttle through similar injury. Taking some time off to hydrate and salvage time for bouldering later in the day gave me time to better consider the area of the Falcon's Lair.
A line on the Riverton Boulder that David and Jesse spent some good time on while I restarted my day. It will be a true classic when finished!
Watching David and Jesse work their lines gave me perspective, encouragement, and mostly a deep motivation to boulder. Stopping to take it all in, the place has grown on me greatly. I estimate 200 problems of very high quality with at least that many to follow as lesser yet worthy problems! Even without bouldering, it is a fantastic place to find ones self in the majesty of the big mountains. Being so focused on observing with my own eyes, only eleven photos were taken the entire day. Once the motivation process started I encouraging the others to go to the upper end of the valley. After the long rest I was feeling ready to test the calf muscle and at the same time study the entire boulder field from above. David had unfinished business in the Ice Cave, Wind in the Willows V8. Jesse made the decision to take a long rest in hope of finishing his project on the Riverton Boulder. And I hoped to have a solid session in the depths of the Ice Cave linking the lowest holds into the finishing moves of Wind in the Willows.
The right half of The Ice Cave. Wind in the Willows originates from the back right while the new project links in from the lowest white edge on the bottom left of the cave. They both finish above the blue pad.
 David was incredibly close to finishing his project! For sure the next time he gets on it. I was able to do every move on the link up, but unable to complete what is now another project. It could have and should have gone in a day, but 3 left heels in the roof, flared the calf muscle up, and kept me out of hard effort for the rest of the trip. During the stay under the Ice Cave Jesse had noticed the beautiful line on the neighboring boulder. It is a line that caught our eye on the first day and will be one of the classics of the area. On the first trip the landing was a flat snow landing and the problem very doable. One all trips since, the landing has become a jumbled pile of blocks. It is very photogenic and still a project.
Jesse on the project with garbage landing. It too will be a classic.
 Above the Ice Cave snow continues to melt with new boulders emerging and new lines being found. A gorgeous rail on an insanely clean bloc caught our eye right away. Looking like it didn't need a left foot at all, David and I gave it some effort. We unlocked the line at V6 without the obvious start. One or two moves in the beginning may be V10 or harder. Again a waiting classic. Just below snow line I quickly put up a slab bathed in evening light. The rock is the cleanest I've ever been on. Even V0 slabs are fantastic to stroll up in this place. It is named A Fine Evening Indeed V0.
It was a fine evening and a fantastic day. David and Jesse climbed until they couldn't which is incredibly motivating. The entire area is motivating. For myself it has been motivating beyond what I have felt in some time now. Future days are always on my mind now. The calendar is showing open days where there previously weren't any. My calf feels tight as hell, but will be ready by next weekend. It has to be. I'm going bouldering.
A fine evening indeed


  1. DAMN Davin... the Lair looks worthy. Have fun up there, you guys!

  2. Great write up! Hang in there, and heal up, the weekend will be here soon.

  3. Chris, it is worthy!

    David, How's the schedule looking? My calf is ready for the weekend.

  4. Very impressive looking rock!

  5. My schedule is good. I'm heading in on Saturday.