|Amiee dog looking to the high country and cooler temps, from the Snowflake Sector|
|Bryan warming up on Whip Dick V0|
|Julian on the second FA of his day. A beautiful and unnamed finger to hand crack.|
Thursday is always my shit day. I have class and a long lab in Microtectonics (micrstructure) which results in a puddin' brain feeling by days end. This day I couldn't focus in class. I was always thinking about something harder to climb, something I didn't get to try on the day before, and the beautiful roof off the side of the road (mentioned in the last post) kept my mind wandering. Knowing if I didn't get my fix that other parts of my life would start to loose focus, the decision was easy. The day outside was again amazing, so at noon the jeep was loaded with pads and on the road. I gave no mention to anyone of my plans. I felt like going at it alone. Only a call to my wife so she would know where I was, then into the Wyoming wild. Part of the needed fix came from the amazing weather and spring fever. Part of it came from the news that a friend had passed last Friday morning. There was a need to enjoy the day and put up something great that could serve a reminder to Ricky Gaines who passed in his sleep while on the banks of the Colorado River.
I drove straight to the road side giant that had held my thoughts for the past days. Initial inspection suggested it might be in the V8 to V10 range. Possible for a single trip. The roof measures 25 feet long and had a prefect snowdrift under it to take several feet of the fall out. It was a great day to be on it! The rock was clean and only needed chalk brushed on the holds so I would know where to go in the huge roof. After warming up on random holds in the roof and back side of the boulder I gave it a go. The first moves threw me and several different sequences didn't help. I started to think that the huge crux span move was going to be too much for me. I moved pads to the second half of the line and finished it first go. It was enough to motivate me to rethink the crux. I eventually found a pinch undercling that allowed me to do the full reach move through the crux. After three failed linkup tries a rest was needed.
|The big roof with pads under the first half. The largest pad is a full size Metolius for scale.|
Thirty minutes of rest and I was ready to go. A single bum go reminded me that the core tension needed was the real deal, and the next go was it. It is The Power Of Contentment V9.
|The second half of The Power Of Contentment. The drift takes up most of the space now, but serves as a great landing. The problem exits left on the thin seam to the lip of the boulder.|
It was a day that will carry me through the entire season and remind me of why we all go through the immense amount of time and effort to boulder. We do what we love to do and feel immensely content for doing so.