06 December 2009

Best of 2009-Central Vedauwoo Bouldering

The subject of Vedauwoo Bouldering is broad. Too broad to put in a single post and too broad to fit even in this blog. A large portion of this blog will cover what has and has not (projects) been done at Vedauwoo. Much of Vedauwoo's past will be presented in no particular order and in no particular series of events. So, with that in mind "Best of 2009" is a bit misleading.
It is -20 degrees with wind chill and snow is coming down. Random memories and thoughts  have led to searches through my thousands of pictures. Today I went through old Vedauwoo pictures from past seasons as I drank my morning coffee. A lot of motivation was found in the old images, but the gym will have to do. Today's post is a random sample of things that most don't know about. Things that escaped the pages of the guide book or were done after the guide was put out. All vey classic and worth the effort.
Central Vedauwoo is a place of many good lines. It has the largest number of classic problems of any area in Vedauwoo and the  largest number of hard problems. Every season new rock is found despite the limited acreage of good stone in Central. It is my favorite place to boulder in the Vedauwoo area because of the growing possibilty there. Witness below the wonder that is Central Vedauwoo.

Myself on the Poison Project. This very good line is located in the cave of huge boulders between the Gill Seam area and the Gazebo, below Walt's Wall. Unless new beta is found it should go at V12 or so.

 Justin Edl on the Weeping Wall Project. This beatiful line was a V10 that never topped out. A key hold broke and it is now a project. The top is clean and will go as well for a complete line of V12/13. It is located on the very southern tip of Central Vedauwoo on the ridge of rock that Har Mar Superstar is on, just abouve the road. It is wet most of the year from a spring in the rock.
Several good lines went up after the book was out as mentioned and Central Vedauwoo was the place for many of those.

 Tim Long on the first ascent of Skinner's Reprise V8 X. The V8 crux is below Tim's feet, but the second crux is above him. One of the proudest lines I've seen put up anywhere. A fall from the top half would be a hospital trip if you're lucky. This is located between the gazebo and the Gill Seam parking.

 The second crux of Skinner's Reprise. Those are slopers on all points of contact!
In 2008 just before the Vedauwoo Bouldering Competition I developed a new area in Central Vedauwoo for a surprise. It is just above the MRC parking lot (entrance to Box Canyon).  Some of the good lines are below.

 Cracked Sky V7/8. The line sit starts back in the middle of the wall on crimps. Ethan McMahan climbing, got the second ascent of this classic line.  Maldek V9, a line I put up this fall shares the same start but exits up and left through the other hole in the sky.

 Bryan Vansickle on an early ascent of Rosebud Strong V6. This is a rare steep problem for Vedauwoo.

 Ethan McMahan trying the sit start project to The Power And The Glory V8.

 Matthew Williams Photo
 Myself back in 2004 on what was then a project. This fall I returned and completed the line A Day In The Life V10. It is located below Har Mar Superstar directly next to a picnic table on ground level. It is very technical and foot work intensive. Nick Duttle put up a line on the left side of the same boulder Curious Waters V7 (originally V9).


  1. Nice Blog Davin. Hope to get out with you this winter/ and or spring. I have my sights set on Lamerica at the body dump area, I'll holla at you if I'm headed your way. (weather permitting)


    Seth Murphy

  2. Seth,
    Been a while. Will be good to get out with you. If the cold is this strong, maybe spring. Let me know when you're coming up to the ice world.