Fall Bouldering, Wyoming Style

One month since the last post and for good reason. It has been a busy fall season of bouldering. I've not had time to post, to finish the chores, or do much of anything not related to boulders. Conditions have been absolutely perfect! Time has been split between several areas. At the always classic Needle Peak, where a sort of resurgence in interest is taking place, fueled by the next generation of Laramie boulderers. At Bennett Peak where new sectors are always around the corner. And at Neverland where my long term project of the Triple X is now almost finished and new harder lines are being added to the list. I haven't even been motivated to take pictures and document that much. The bouldering has been too good.

BENNETT PEAK
For many years Bennett peak has been a sort of forgotten area for southeast Wyoming. About ten percent of the boulders are lower quality with a sandy surface and this lead to an image of the peak as being below average. Funny, because the entire choss story is based on a single trip from early on in the history of the area. Ridiculous, because the other ninety percent is good gneiss. Well featured and highly varied. In reality the area is large with a lot of future development ahead.
The focus lately has been on a fantastic sector of large boulders tucked along the Platte River in a gentle canyon (The Rose Boulders). The setting is superior and as beautiful a place as any I've bouldered. It does have the one draw back of having to wade the river in autumn (by boat in the spring). The last trip, a week ago, involved a hundred yards of moving ice flow. Like wading a giant slushy. A set of waders or even trash bags would at least keep the the feet dry and hopefully deny the hot aches of warming the feet. Pain of course, is part of bouldering, as is the reward.

A number of very good if not classic lines have gone in at the Rose Boulders. A long day of cleaning had us rained out of climbing and has left a number of the best lines still unclimbed. The list of classics so far is a good variety of styles and grades. Ass Like An Apple V2, River Dance V5, Victory Tots V5, Squirrel Town V7, Faust V7, and Southern Drawl V10 are all top of the list so far. One more trip this season and the list will change.

NEEDLE PEAK
The classic Needle Peak is finally getting the attention it deserves. Several of the boulderers here in Laramie have been doing weekly trips to the peak in motivating style. They're focused on repeating as much as possible. Seth Sivinski, Dylan Stowers, and Brian Horlick are the instigators of the resurgence. It's really fantastic to have problems repeated that really haven't seen traffic since the day they went up. Of course there is a core group of problems at Needle Peak that have had lots of repeats, but areas outside of the central valley rarely see anyone. This despite being as good, if not better than the know lines. I've given directions to as many problems as I can remember and have managed a few trips for repeats myself. It has been surprising to get on problems that went up in a flash or a few goes, years back, and still know the intricate details of the line. To remember a hidden crimp or trick heel from 2005 is something to be proud of. Really makes me feel like I'm home.
Needle Peak has far too many good lines to list here, but classic three and four star problems range from V0 to V11 with many harder projects waiting. Some of the out of the way gems with recent activity have been Belafonte V3, Primordial Soup Prow V5/6, and The Game Of Life V8. Belafonte is a good steep line with a dynamic finish over a pit.

Primordial Soup Prow is a good introduction to compression.

One of the really promising aspects of Needle Peak is not only the remaining 40 or so projects, but the potential for many three and four star high balls, as well as a few hundred easy to moderate lines. The potential is still good! Each trip is only complete after a few new lines go up. In some cases a sketchy and insecure, ground up, high ball. I've noticed a trend lately with the new kids enjoying this style of near death experience. The latest was a finger to cupped hands crack that involved standing on a bush at leg breaker height while getting a fist pump from the spotter below. Strange indeed and maybe a new style all together.

NEVERLAND
Again, Neverland has held my core motivation. The best lines I've seen in Wyoming are there and a few have become either my problems or my projects. One in particular has bee at the fore-front of my bouldering mind for two years now. I'm sure some strong kid could come up and link it all quickly, but for me it has been a struggle to take a step up, into the next level. The Triple X project has been not a nemesis, it is too nice a line for that, but a long learning experience. I've finally completed each move including the long sought after crux, and have only to put it together now. It is a deep and open cave feature from 50 degrees overhanging to 70 with 12 hard moves and 18 in total to the top. It is really two lines in one with a long, 9 move, power endurance V10/11 into a short and very powerful V9/10 to the top. Finally, a breakthrough and the possibility came to me this fall!

I estimate 2 weeks of fall bouldering are left in this corner of Wyoming. Then the struggle, but good conditions of winter bouldering will begin. So far the pass over the Snowy Range remains open and fast access to both Needle Peak and Bennett Peak remain. Make the most of it!
Neverland will be good for another month if conditions continue. I hope they do.

"You goin' climbing or bouldering?"

"We're going bouldering" was my answer. Always have been, doing it now, and always will be bouldering. And it feels a lot like climbing. Maybe only in Wyoming does that question still come up? Voiced from a few older sirs who I very much respect and whom may have bouldered them selves at one time. Wyoming is traditional to say the least, but I am reminded of some pretty burly mountaineers bouldering under the Tetons in the early 1960s. They were climbing and so were we last week in the new frontier of Wyoming's boulder fields. But, if we have to make a division here, it's bouldering that we're going to do and did.

 

One Tim Rose was in the Laramie area last Tuesday, and along with Bryan Vansickle and myself some bouldering took place at Bennett Peak. Early this spring Bryan and I had walked a new section of the Bennett Peak area and had found some really promising new boulders. The issue was crossing the mighty Platte River, so saving the new sector for autumn became the obvious choice. Tim suggested that he didn't care at all where he bouldered or what, he just wanted to see the Wyoming frontier. New rock would fit that request. With autumn making the river crossing possible we entered the new sector and again became overwhelmed with possibility. Large boulders piled down the hill side and provided the psych for the day. 

The hundred yard crossing

Myself trying Southern Drawl V10. Tim Rose Photo.

Tim's company came highly recommended. Josh at Organic, had mentioned he may be in town, so I was excited to meet up and do some bouldering. The recommendation was a good one and Tim is a force of nature. Like a bouldering Hulk that is never mad, but really strong! He put down some impressive stuff on the Bennett Peak day including a classic V9/10 he named Southern Drawl and another in the dark, Metamorpheses V10/11. He onsighted the first ascent of an absolutely beautiful V7 he named Faust that is both tall and very steep. Bryan and I were instantly motivated and since that day I've tried much, much harder on everything. I'm calling the new sector the Rose Boulders in honor of that day.

Tim Rose on the FA of Southern Drawl V9/10

Bryan and Tim prepping the landing for Faust V7

While the day was maybe a little warm, we still had a fantastic time. My dog Amiee was there too and couldn't complain about the location. She's a water loving dog and the big river was just what she was looking for. As things cool down even more, the gneiss that feels like sandstone that is Bennett peak will get even better! The day was enough to convince Tim to come up for another visit and Thursday was that day.

Amiee Dog loving the good life

Thursday was a cool down in the weather and after some debate on places to go, we headed to Neverland, more specifically the Old Neverland Sector. Bryan found the place a few years ago and it has been a classic. Two of my long term projects are there, as is the wood grain wall, home of my Crazy In The Ocean V10. Justin Edl came along for the day and it was great to get back out with him. It had been some time since I last climbed with Justin and his addition to the crew was fantastic. We were all motivated to make the most of the day on the great rock. Tim and Justin completed the second and third ascents of Crazy In The Ocean and Bryan came very close to a repeat as well. Close enough that after months of not climbing he proclaimed that he's back in the game. Being back in the game, Bryan went ahead and linked the bottom half of the project central line of the Wood Grain Wall.

Justin on the third ascent of Crazy In The Ocean V10

Bryan back in the game on the project central line of the Wood Grain Wall.

We briefly attempted the Undercling Project which really helped me in realizing that it is both really hard and also possible. I hadn't been on it in some time, maybe a full year, and feeling rusty, will need to start working on it again. Tim stuck the crux move which has never been stuck by anyone. In doing so, he showed both the possibility and the difficulty. It will be a classic resistants line. Not too long, not too short, and very physical. 

Tim on opening moves of the Undercling Project

The true gem of the Old Neverland Sector is the Wood Grain Wall in it's entirety. The line will climb through the two cruxes of Crazy In The Ocean, then a third crux transition into the project central line of the wall, and finally finish on the project central line which has a high upper crux sequence. Crazy... is V10 and 7 moves to the transition. The transition feels similar to V9/10 and includes doing the second crux of Crazy... the hard way and is 5 or so moves. Then the central line of the wall is another 7 moves of maybe V11 plus several more to top out, which all equals V?? also know as V really inspiring, absolutely epic line. We tried the line for the majority of the session and felt good progress. Tim looked like he could get it done with some work, but he could definitely get it done and soon. The rest of us were able to do individual moves and some sections in combination. I made good progress and am very interested in this line. Intending to work it as long as my body will allow. I put up the V10 start and figured out the transition. The finishing problem will take some work, but I'm willing to put in the time. It caught my eye on the first day in the area and is one of the best lines I've seen anywhere. It really is the line that started the hysteria I feel for Wyoming bouldering. It's caught the attention of all who have set eyes upon it. Tim's great account of things is here.

Tim on a very impressive link up attempt of the Full Wood Grain Wall Project

There was some great bouldering prior to last week as well. The new kids at UW have been gaining momentum and are definitely infected with the developing bug. The last Horatio Rock post served it's purpose and some new lines have gone in there. In particular, Seth Sivinski went up on solo missions to Horatio Rock and has been cleaning lines. He mentioned he needed a spot to finish the left side of the Fox Cave, so last Saturday we headed out with Dylan Stowers and Seth's brother. My hopes of putting up a repeat of Lord Of The Forest were dashed by more than warm temperatures, but the back side of the hill was in the shade. We started by getting on a new V2 put up by Scott Blunk on the Warm Up Wall that is by far the best line on that wall. Fox Cave was next up and Seth went straight to work cleaning the terrifying top out to his project. 

Mr. Sivinski cleaning the terrifying top out of the Fox Cave.

After a long debate of which death flakes were good to use, Seth completed his line first go and did enough cleaning while climbing to scare the hell out of Dylan and I. We spotted like crazy! I can't remember what he named it, but it's a classic long line with a crux encounter at the lip. Seth leaned way the hell back off a slimper side pull and committed in good style. 

Seth on the FA of his V4 that he named, but I can't recall at this time.

 Dylan found a project of his own that fits his long frame very well. The excellent rock of the Fox Cave yields well spaced, blocky holds. The central line up the wall is a good example of that style. Good progress was put forth and I'm thinking Dylan will finish the line next trip. It was cool to see the progress on the crux move. It went from not even close, to little adjustments making it more of a controlled move, to Dylan sticking it every go. Even more encouraging was the B.S. coming out of the new crew. They talked about cleaning lines, working lines, future plans in all the right places, and how excited they were to get a dedicated group put together to repeat the good days. The kind of B.S. that is serious and then some with a not so family oriented theme.
The right side of the Fox Cave was also put up as Fairy Kick V3, which is a new bouldering move that can be put in the bank along side the Moon Kick and the Finnija Kick. With more to do, the entirety of the Fox Cave was  linked from Seth's line, traverses the entire wall from left to right, and finishes up Fairy Kick. It is Godzilla vs. Gina V4ish.
When all was done in the Fox Cave, Dylan's Project remaining, we dropped back toward the parking with a quick stop at the Dirty Boner Boulder. Everyone quickly repeated the lackluster line of Dirty Boner V2/3. They complained a lot about it's poor quality so I put up a classic next to it. A long traversing line on slopers that is for sure a star above Dirty Boner and is now Western Roll V7/8.
Anyway, it was a lot of bouldering last week. That's not even counting the Needle Peak day last Saturday. This is the best time of the year for both climbers and boulderers (if we have to make that division here). I waited through a long hot summer for this and now I'm going bouldering.

Dylan on his project

The Future. 

Dirty Boner Boulder. Dirty Boner V2/3 is the far left arete from a low sit start. Western Roll V7/8 starts on the right most chalked rail side pull and goes all the way left up to the boulder's apex.

Falcon's Lair Update

Yesterday was another day in the Falcon's Lair for me and several others. Lander locals David and Ashley Lloyd, and Chris Marley, four of the crew from Casper, Wy, Cory Cummings, Danny Baker, Jeff Nielson, and Tony ??, and Seth Sivinski and myself from Laramie made up a large crew.
Rain and storm greeted us for our 8am start. As we drove the rain fell harder then became sleet, which became a light snow at the trail head. Just as we had begun to contemplate a day of walking in the storm to find new rock the sky started to clear. It was enough to encourage us into the wilderness. The day eventually turned to blue sky and the best conditions of the season. All the signs of autumn completed the alpine experience. It is a limited time frame now to boulder at the Lair this season. Some of the snow from last weeks storm system remains on the upper sections of the valley. Conditions however are the very best.

The group walking past another unclimbed classic. This one a huge roof on very good rock, large enough that the entire group pictured stood under it groping holds for a while. It looks to have a V11/12 from the center of the roof and a V14/15 from the depths. 

Another view of the unclimbed with Danny Baker 

Being the first trip into the area for the majority of the group we started warming up in cold conditions at the Lander Boulder and neighbors. We quickly gravitated to sun warmed stone and avoided the shadows. A first for the season! It felt remarkably sticky with the exceptionally clean rock and the crisp, cold air. I could tell some serious bouldering would get done. While the group climbed in the middle of the boulder field, Chris and I went up to the upper end. Chris has been very active in the Falcon's Lair the past weeks and was anxious to get on some projects. I was excited to see the new lines and finish some things my self. Last week, by himself, Chris went in and completed the central line in the Ice Cave. It is a mega-classic and now World Conqueror V10. On the first go I hit the last crux move, then promptly popped my heel and dabbed. Two more goes were less successful and after that my body felt overly tired and wasn't recovering. A scratchy throat and aches later in the day gave me a better perspective on the cause but still feels like a weak sauce excuse. It was frustrating to fail yesterday, really frustrating no matter the cause. It reminds me to try harder, focus, and make the most of every go.
I tried a few of the other projects that Chris had been working on his own. Beautiful lines on their own and even more impressive as additions to the Lair. Chris finished both in good style. The first was a short and very powerful roof that was dug out of from the snow field that caps the valley. From full power underlings to a balanced and core tensioned end it is a good, solid line. Chris called it Spitfire V12 and is now the hardest line in the Falcon's Lair. Only enough snow was removed to allow for exiting the cave, so please excuse the less than inspiring picture of a very inspiring line. The second, later in the session was Raspberry Delight V10ish? that moves out of the depths of the left side of the Ice Cave. The start is the crux and hard to grade while the entire rest of the problem is far easier. So, that's two V10s in the Ice Cave and a V12 just up the hill! When the valley is finally developed it will be very impressive to see the total of hard lines that Chris will have contributed!

Chris going from the powerful to the delicate on Spitfire V12 

It was greatly motivating to watch someone climbing at their best on the best rock! I was inspired to try much harder, going from not being able to start Spitfire to making progress on the V12 first move and feeling good on the next moves which involve a double toe hook lip move!. Despite the encouragement from Chris and his story of many tries to leave the ground too, it was slow progress and I never hit the move. It felt damn hard. Below us the yells of encouragement resonating up the boulder field as others worked their lines. For Wyoming it was a different feeling to have other voices in the area. Normally a Wyoming boulder field is almost completely void of human sound. The silence can be a powerful experience and tool to use for focus on hard lines, but this day was nice to have others around.
All but Seth had to leave early so the valley quickly returned to it's usual silence. I didn't get to spend much time with the rest of the group, so you'll have to view David Lloyd's blog to get the details. I would have liked to gain some perspective on what the newcomers think of the place. Even without getting to spend much time with the others I am really appreciative that they made the trip to join us in such a beautiful place. Hopefully they return to put up some lines of their own. Seth had the goal of climbing Barnyard V4/5, an unbelievably clean sloper line that requires some quickness and fitness to complete. Seth was very close to finishing it, but was thwarted by picking it at the end of a long day. He gave it hell, came close to sending, and inspired Chris to keep bouldering into the evening.

Seth on the classic slopers of Barnyard V4/5

With dwindling light the pads were moved to a gently overhanging wall with small and unique holds. As time ran out on the day another project was left at the Lair. This one, maybe will be Chris's first V13?

Small, perfect, and clean crimps up a very hard project.

The awesome quarter pad  tri-pinch on the possible V13 project

Seth, Chris, and I walked out in the dark and stumbled down the trail in the growing darkness. We missed a turn and wandered in pitch black forest for a while, but did find our way out. Our way out to climb another day in an incredible area. Next weekend will be another day in the Lair and maybe one of the last for the season. I have some things to make up for and finish and am very stoked. Those of us going in will be  bringing a ton of motivation, but are wondering who else will join us?