A Place Of Legend

Revolcadero del Diablo: A Day In The Monster's Den

2012-01-22T20:06:00.000-07:00

Saturday was looking good for the weather forecast and with an entire day free I couldn't resist a full day of exploration. It had been some time since I had gone out on my own in the middle of nowhere and I had been hoping for a solo day for a while. Without really planning on a specific day, I knew when I woke up it was the day to sneak away. Despite several calls from people looking for a productive Saturday, I turned the phone off, loaded the jeep with full gear and extra gas, the dog and maps, then hit the road. My goal was to visit a number of possibly good areas that I had discovered while working as a geologist last winter. From a long list of possibles I chose a back country route through many miles of interlocking dirt roads that would bring me past as many boulders as possible. In all, I drove around 230 miles of dirt and another 140 miles of highway.
Far more snow than expected kept me from all but a few of the boulder fields. I was able to drive within a mile or less of a few to know enough that I need to return as soon as the melt happens. Really good looking boulder fields came and went down the snowy roads, but all were at the end of overly drifted two tracks. Being alone a hundred miles into the depths of Wyoming, with a winter storm moving in the same evening and clearly visible on the sky line, kept me from "punching through" the drifts or walking too far from the vehicle. I can say that I'm really impressed with the amount of rock I drove past. Hopefully it's as good at is it is suggested to be from the geological maps and satellite images.
Toward the end of my long drive, sometime in the early afternoon, I finally drove out of the snowy mountains and into the basin. My goal was a large area of boulders I had identified as a similar sandstone to the Dakota. In Wyoming it's known as the Cloverly, is as well put together as the Dakota, but is a little different in appearance. It's fine grain and loaded with pebbles (think Castlewood Canyon, but more pebbles), but can have a saving grace of compact sections that yield great boulders. Obviously my hope was a section of the compact stuff. Miles of boulders cover the hillsides and as it turns out the vast majority is of the pebbled rock. I stopped at the end of several two tracks, each one a valley of rock, and always returning to the jeep ready to move on. Finally I drove further to the final stop of the day. A place where the hill side of boulders had fallen into a disaster of stone and earth.

The place was named Revolcadero del Diablo by some hunters who had posted pictures on the web. In their pictures some of the boulders looked like the good stuff, and the place looked like a jumble. As it turned out the boulders are massive. Most being way too large to boulder and are made of the pebbled sandstone. It is really solid stone, but maybe too bizarre to climb. Of all places I've explored in Wyoming and neighboring places this is the strangest and most bizarre by far. The overcast day with random rain and snow maybe helped the mood of the strange labyrinth, but did not help my mood. I continually looked over my shoulder as I wandered the random hills and corridors, always feeling as if I were an unwanted visitor in a giant's land. It looked and felt like monsters had hurried to cover themselves with the stones as I approached. Holes were in random places under my feet. For hundreds of feet the earth was solid and normal and without warning I would suddenly be stepping around gaps, then jumping 40 foot pits. To complete the bizarre arrangement, the majority of boulders are far more pebbly than any I've seen. The pebbles are like marbles. Like billions of marbles in a completely solid cement.

40 foot boulders of glued marbles

Somehow a tree grows on the overhanging tip of a 40 foot tower

The forms of the boulders provide really amazing features that should be fantastic to climb, but I'm not sure with the strange marble grips if it's even possible. There area does have around 10% of the better stone, but completely and randomly mixed up in the jumble. Some of the lines are good enough for a return trip, but only in the winter when all else is snow covered and out for the season. It is an intriguing place to boulder with the uniqueness of the place and I would like to return. I keep running the possibility and question through my head, are the marbled walls climbable? The grips would always be strange pinches and the feet would be infinite. Even if it's a bust, the few compact boulders are worthwhile for a winter bouldering area.

The Marbled Rock

The Good Sandstone

The place does have some really nice looking features, as sandstone usually does. If even a few lines come

out of the marble type walls, I'll be happy with the experience. It is a completely unique place to boulder. Even a visit without climbing is recommended. A visit not in any season but winter or possibly late fall. The holes and gaps and cracks and thousands of fissures must hold snakes like no place other than a monsters den. I noticed no pack rat crap anywhere, no rabbit droppings, and almost no sign of birds. It would be impressive in spring to see the snake dens come to life, but I won't be there.

A great crescent feature.

A good roof on good stone

The good sandstone with marbled stuff to start on

Good Omens of 2012

2012-01-07T09:03:00.000-07:00

Mid-winter t-shirt weather in this corner of Wyoming simply doesn't happen, but for a few days it did. On Thursday of this past week the weather became unbelievably good with a forecast of sun and 60 degrees. With Bryan and Brian we went out to the Old Neverland sector of Neverland and found some out of the wind blocs. Normally too hot to boulder on because of the solar collecting hillside, the gneiss was absolutely perfect this time around.

Climbing on real rock was a nice change after a long while stuck on plastic. As we warmed up on the perfect stone and began to understand how good the conditions were and some objectives changed. We completed a variety of new lines as the day got going, adding 5 lines to the 2 boulders we started on, but started thinking of the harder lines.

I was really happy to climb on the sun warmed stone and started looking at taller lines where I could really get into a rhythm and just climb. One of the best easy high balls I've done in a long time went up. I called the line Colossus V0 as it turned out to be a gentle giant of perfect edges up the tallest face of the boulder. Bryan and Brian thought it was a bit too high for a repeat, but couldn't argue with the rock quality.

Everyone got in on the good stone. Each line unique and a great contribution to the area. Brian Horlick has been impressive with his continued drive to put in the work and climb new lines. He completed 2 new lines on the day, one of which is a really nice, short roof on crimps and incuts. He left a third line on slopers a project for next time.

A few additional lines were cleaned and never climbed, saved for another winter day. Not just an interest in climbing on sun warmed rock, but now finishing off some lines that stood out as great harder lines became the the drive. Bryan Vansickle kept looking up the hill side to a large and round overhanging prow he dubbed the Whale Dick Project. He was close a year ago on the single day he tried it, but all trips to get back on it had been too warm. The huge round slopers were sticky as sticky gets on Thursday. Bryan finished it in good style. The new classic is now Horton V9.

We moved on to a sunnier location as the sun began it's descent to the ridge line. The last boulder of the day was a massive gray giant that has potential for around 15 lines. I cleaned 2 new ones while the Bry(i)ans cleaned neighboring lines. The first was a surprise. A low sit start in a small roof that climbed into an amazing steep gray face of crimps. Ghost Face V6/7. The second line is a fantastic looking piece of stone that looks to be V10-V13, but could also be a surprise. As the day's end grew closer I ran out of time to try it. The light and calm during the final moments of the day were as much an experience as the climbing. I had Brian Horlick get on Ghost Face for a picture and almost missed the shot as I was watching the distant hillsides in the evening sun.

It was a really good day to start the new year! We completed a total of 9 new lines, but cleaned 13. I'll take it as a good omen of the days to come. Now the snow is falling, but for a change it is falling straight down. Another good omen. Happy New Year all!

End of 2011, Wyoming Bouldering

2011-12-24T10:58:00.000-07:00

The dream lives on. Despite a long period of cold and only a few days in the real outdoors, the dream lives on. I haven't felt like writing anything down on this blog, but there has been a lot to write about. As usual, the search for new rock has motivated our days out of the gym and kept some hope that climbing outside remains a real possibility. Some days have been warm enough to go out, with hardly a breeze. We also had some brutal cold too. For a short few days Laramie, Wy made national headlines. It was the coldest location in the northern hemisphere for a few hours (-49 F) and two days later was listed as the 7th coldest city in America. The Source Gym complete with a new heater for the winter season took the brunt of my frustrations during that time. I'm stronger now thanks to that cold! The good days of course have been used for good purpose.
In Neverland, each visit produces new areas and fantastic future problems. Bryan Vansickle and I have been driving out, maybe once a week, to find road side stone and have had really good luck. Some amazing new sectors have been walked in the below zero wind chills. It's not like we need to find new rock. Our past finds provide a few life times of struggle on stone, but the dream of the perfect line is always near and draws us in.
The Swamp Thing Boulder is a real gem as can been seen in the photo below. It holds two distinct 4 star lines, while some other possibility is near by. The approach is a brutal 100 yards from the jeep and about 30 feet up a gentle slab.

We found a muffin top boulder in a large new road side sector that looks like it holds a really good compression problem up the downhill prow. The entire area around the muffin top is brilliant. Small craglets with a few problems each, scattered from 20 to 100 yards apart, and all sitting among rolling open hills. The rock is Gneiss and is very nice. I apologize on the lack of current pictures. We mostly run around in full Arctic gear in below zero wind, so the camera rarely comes along. One problem that should have made this blog, but has not been photographed is the Dead Tree Project. A 70 degree, steep as hell crimp line, that could be V10 or V14, but is absolutely perfect. I think about it every day I'm in the gym. It makes me try harder, knowing I'll get to try it as soon as the wind stops.

In some other local areas, this time provided by Scott Blunk, we walked and explored some local granite. It is surprisingly close to Laramie, but I've been sworn to secrecy by Scott, so that's all I can say. If you know Scott and how gigantic he really is, you would keep it a secret too. Besides, he's very close to completing a first ascent project of very good quality. The line from his start is around V8/9 and a really nice and natural sit start will bump it up to v10. I was able to do the sit start move twice in eleven goes and am now really motivated to get back and do the entire line. The opening move is a granite twin of the Hueco Tanks problem Wonder Hole Dyno. The day we visited with Scott, the entire area was covered in deep snow and topping anything out was impossible.

The area around Scott's project includes a good number of large boulders. Some really impressive lines sit in the forest, waiting to melt out. Bryan and I walked the area a few days after Scott's tour in an attempt to get a better understanding of the area. The snow was deep, the walk was long, and the boulders were mostly encased in ice. We'll wait for spring to return, but the surprising quality of he local granite is set in our minds. I'm really looking forward to getting out with Scott again and finishing off the large lines of his area. It always amazes me when Scott gives us a tour of an area we should know about, but haven't found yet despite close proximity to Laramie.

If the winter wind calms and the sun shines we're going to Neverland this Christmas break. I'll post on it should we make it there and actually boulder. Otherwise you can presume we're in the Source Gym getting ready.
Have a Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and enjoy the stone when you get on it!

Fall Bouldering, Wyoming Style

2011-11-05T10:23:00.001-06:00

One month since the last post and for good reason. It has been a busy fall season of bouldering. I've not had time to post, to finish the chores, or do much of anything not related to boulders. Conditions have been absolutely perfect! Time has been split between several areas. At the always classic Needle Peak, where a sort of resurgence in interest is taking place, fueled by the next generation of Laramie boulderers. At Bennett Peak where new sectors are always around the corner. And at Neverland where my long term project of the Triple X is now almost finished and new harder lines are being added to the list. I haven't even been motivated to take pictures and document that much. The bouldering has been too good.

BENNETT PEAK
For many years Bennett peak has been a sort of forgotten area for southeast Wyoming. About ten percent of the boulders are lower quality with a sandy surface and this lead to an image of the peak as being below average. Funny, because the entire choss story is based on a single trip from early on in the history of the area. Ridiculous, because the other ninety percent is good gneiss. Well featured and highly varied. In reality the area is large with a lot of future development ahead.
The focus lately has been on a fantastic sector of large boulders tucked along the Platte River in a gentle canyon (The Rose Boulders). The setting is superior and as beautiful a place as any I've bouldered. It does have the one draw back of having to wade the river in autumn (by boat in the spring). The last trip, a week ago, involved a hundred yards of moving ice flow. Like wading a giant slushy. A set of waders or even trash bags would at least keep the the feet dry and hopefully deny the hot aches of warming the feet. Pain of course, is part of bouldering, as is the reward.

A number of very good if not classic lines have gone in at the Rose Boulders. A long day of cleaning had us rained out of climbing and has left a number of the best lines still unclimbed. The list of classics so far is a good variety of styles and grades. Ass Like An Apple V2, River Dance V5, Victory Tots V5, Squirrel Town V7, Faust V7, and Southern Drawl V10 are all top of the list so far. One more trip this season and the list will change.

NEEDLE PEAK
The classic Needle Peak is finally getting the attention it deserves. Several of the boulderers here in Laramie have been doing weekly trips to the peak in motivating style. They're focused on repeating as much as possible. Seth Sivinski, Dylan Stowers, and Brian Horlick are the instigators of the resurgence. It's really fantastic to have problems repeated that really haven't seen traffic since the day they went up. Of course there is a core group of problems at Needle Peak that have had lots of repeats, but areas outside of the central valley rarely see anyone. This despite being as good, if not better than the know lines. I've given directions to as many problems as I can remember and have managed a few trips for repeats myself. It has been surprising to get on problems that went up in a flash or a few goes, years back, and still know the intricate details of the line. To remember a hidden crimp or trick heel from 2005 is something to be proud of. Really makes me feel like I'm home.
Needle Peak has far too many good lines to list here, but classic three and four star problems range from V0 to V11 with many harder projects waiting. Some of the out of the way gems with recent activity have been Belafonte V3, Primordial Soup Prow V5/6, and The Game Of Life V8. Belafonte is a good steep line with a dynamic finish over a pit.

Primordial Soup Prow is a good introduction to compression.

One of the really promising aspects of Needle Peak is not only the remaining 40 or so projects, but the potential for many three and four star high balls, as well as a few hundred easy to moderate lines. The potential is still good! Each trip is only complete after a few new lines go up. In some cases a sketchy and insecure, ground up, high ball. I've noticed a trend lately with the new kids enjoying this style of near death experience. The latest was a finger to cupped hands crack that involved standing on a bush at leg breaker height while getting a fist pump from the spotter below. Strange indeed and maybe a new style all together.

NEVERLAND
Again, Neverland has held my core motivation. The best lines I've seen in Wyoming are there and a few have become either my problems or my projects. One in particular has bee at the fore-front of my bouldering mind for two years now. I'm sure some strong kid could come up and link it all quickly, but for me it has been a struggle to take a step up, into the next level. The Triple X project has been not a nemesis, it is too nice a line for that, but a long learning experience. I've finally completed each move including the long sought after crux, and have only to put it together now. It is a deep and open cave feature from 50 degrees overhanging to 70 with 12 hard moves and 18 in total to the top. It is really two lines in one with a long, 9 move, power endurance V10/11 into a short and very powerful V9/10 to the top. Finally, a breakthrough and the possibility came to me this fall!

I estimate 2 weeks of fall bouldering are left in this corner of Wyoming. Then the struggle, but good conditions of winter bouldering will begin. So far the pass over the Snowy Range remains open and fast access to both Needle Peak and Bennett Peak remain. Make the most of it!
Neverland will be good for another month if conditions continue. I hope they do.

"You goin' climbing or bouldering?"

2011-10-04T07:25:00.001-06:00

"We're going bouldering" was my answer. Always have been, doing it now, and always will be bouldering. And it feels a lot like climbing. Maybe only in Wyoming does that question still come up? Voiced from a few older sirs who I very much respect and whom may have bouldered them selves at one time. Wyoming is traditional to say the least, but I am reminded of some pretty burly mountaineers bouldering under the Tetons in the early 1960s. They were climbing and so were we last week in the new frontier of Wyoming's boulder fields. But, if we have to make a division here, it's bouldering that we're going to do and did.

One Tim Rose was in the Laramie area last Tuesday, and along with Bryan Vansickle and myself some bouldering took place at Bennett Peak. Early this spring Bryan and I had walked a new section of the Bennett Peak area and had found some really promising new boulders. The issue was crossing the mighty Platte River, so saving the new sector for autumn became the obvious choice. Tim suggested that he didn't care at all where he bouldered or what, he just wanted to see the Wyoming frontier. New rock would fit that request. With autumn making the river crossing possible we entered the new sector and again became overwhelmed with possibility. Large boulders piled down the hill side and provided the psych for the day.

The hundred yard crossing

Myself trying Southern Drawl V10. Tim Rose Photo.

Tim's company came highly recommended. Josh at Organic, had mentioned he may be in town, so I was excited to meet up and do some bouldering. The recommendation was a good one and Tim is a force of nature. Like a bouldering Hulk that is never mad, but really strong! He put down some impressive stuff on the Bennett Peak day including a classic V9/10 he named Southern Drawl and another in the dark, Metamorpheses V10/11. He onsighted the first ascent of an absolutely beautiful V7 he named Faust that is both tall and very steep. Bryan and I were instantly motivated and since that day I've tried much, much harder on everything. I'm calling the new sector the Rose Boulders in honor of that day.

Tim Rose on the FA of Southern Drawl V9/10

Bryan and Tim prepping the landing for Faust V7

While the day was maybe a little warm, we still had a fantastic time. My dog Amiee was there too and couldn't complain about the location. She's a water loving dog and the big river was just what she was looking for. As things cool down even more, the gneiss that feels like sandstone that is Bennett peak will get even better! The day was enough to convince Tim to come up for another visit and Thursday was that day.


Amiee Dog loving the good life

Thursday was a cool down in the weather and after some debate on places to go, we headed to Neverland, more specifically the Old Neverland Sector. Bryan found the place a few years ago and it has been a classic. Two of my long term projects are there, as is the wood grain wall, home of my Crazy In The Ocean V10. Justin Edl came along for the day and it was great to get back out with him. It had been some time since I last climbed with Justin and his addition to the crew was fantastic. We were all motivated to make the most of the day on the great rock. Tim and Justin completed the second and third ascents of Crazy In The Ocean and Bryan came very close to a repeat as well. Close enough that after months of not climbing he proclaimed that he's back in the game. Being back in the game, Bryan went ahead and linked the bottom half of the project central line of the Wood Grain Wall.

Justin on the third ascent of Crazy In The Ocean V10

Bryan back in the game on the project central line of the Wood Grain Wall.

We briefly attempted the Undercling Project which really helped me in realizing that it is both really hard and also possible. I hadn't been on it in some time, maybe a full year, and feeling rusty, will need to start working on it again. Tim stuck the crux move which has never been stuck by anyone. In doing so, he showed both the possibility and the difficulty. It will be a classic resistants line. Not too long, not too short, and very physical.

Tim on opening moves of the Undercling Project

The true gem of the Old Neverland Sector is the Wood Grain Wall in it's entirety. The line will climb through the two cruxes of Crazy In The Ocean, then a third crux transition into the project central line of the wall, and finally finish on the project central line which has a high upper crux sequence. Crazy... is V10 and 7 moves to the transition. The transition feels similar to V9/10 and includes doing the second crux of Crazy... the hard way and is 5 or so moves. Then the central line of the wall is another 7 moves of maybe V11 plus several more to top out, which all equals V?? also know as V really inspiring, absolutely epic line. We tried the line for the majority of the session and felt good progress. Tim looked like he could get it done with some work, but he could definitely get it done and soon. The rest of us were able to do individual moves and some sections in combination. I made good progress and am very interested in this line. Intending to work it as long as my body will allow. I put up the V10 start and figured out the transition. The finishing problem will take some work, but I'm willing to put in the time. It caught my eye on the first day in the area and is one of the best lines I've seen anywhere. It really is the line that started the hysteria I feel for Wyoming bouldering. It's caught the attention of all who have set eyes upon it. Tim's great account of things is here.

Tim on a very impressive link up attempt of the Full Wood Grain Wall Project

There was some great bouldering prior to last week as well. The new kids at UW have been gaining momentum and are definitely infected with the developing bug. The last Horatio Rock post served it's purpose and some new lines have gone in there. In particular, Seth Sivinski went up on solo missions to Horatio Rock and has been cleaning lines. He mentioned he needed a spot to finish the left side of the Fox Cave, so last Saturday we headed out with Dylan Stowers and Seth's brother. My hopes of putting up a repeat of Lord Of The Forest were dashed by more than warm temperatures, but the back side of the hill was in the shade. We started by getting on a new V2 put up by Scott Blunk on the Warm Up Wall that is by far the best line on that wall. Fox Cave was next up and Seth went straight to work cleaning the terrifying top out to his project.

Mr. Sivinski cleaning the terrifying top out of the Fox Cave.

After a long debate of which death flakes were good to use, Seth completed his line first go and did enough cleaning while climbing to scare the hell out of Dylan and I. We spotted like crazy! I can't remember what he named it, but it's a classic long line with a crux encounter at the lip. Seth leaned way the hell back off a slimper side pull and committed in good style.

Seth on the FA of his V4 that he named, but I can't recall at this time.

Dylan found a project of his own that fits his long frame very well. The excellent rock of the Fox Cave yields well spaced, blocky holds. The central line up the wall is a good example of that style. Good progress was put forth and I'm thinking Dylan will finish the line next trip. It was cool to see the progress on the crux move. It went from not even close, to little adjustments making it more of a controlled move, to Dylan sticking it every go. Even more encouraging was the B.S. coming out of the new crew. They talked about cleaning lines, working lines, future plans in all the right places, and how excited they were to get a dedicated group put together to repeat the good days. The kind of B.S. that is serious and then some with a not so family oriented theme.
The right side of the Fox Cave was also put up as Fairy Kick V3, which is a new bouldering move that can be put in the bank along side the Moon Kick and the Finnija Kick. With more to do, the entirety of the Fox Cave was linked from Seth's line, traverses the entire wall from left to right, and finishes up Fairy Kick. It is Godzilla vs. Gina V4ish.
When all was done in the Fox Cave, Dylan's Project remaining, we dropped back toward the parking with a quick stop at the Dirty Boner Boulder. Everyone quickly repeated the lackluster line of Dirty Boner V2/3. They complained a lot about it's poor quality so I put up a classic next to it. A long traversing line on slopers that is for sure a star above Dirty Boner and is now Western Roll V7/8.
Anyway, it was a lot of bouldering last week. That's not even counting the Needle Peak day last Saturday. This is the best time of the year for both climbers and boulderers (if we have to make that division here). I waited through a long hot summer for this and now I'm going bouldering.

Dylan on his project

The Future.

Dirty Boner Boulder. Dirty Boner V2/3 is the far left arete from a low sit start. Western Roll V7/8 starts on the right most chalked rail side pull and goes all the way left up to the boulder's apex.

Falcon's Lair Update

2011-09-18T19:52:00.004-06:00

Yesterday was another day in the Falcon's Lair for me and several others. Lander locals David and Ashley Lloyd, and Chris Marley, four of the crew from Casper, Wy, Cory Cummings, Danny Baker, Jeff Nielson, and Tony ??, and Seth Sivinski and myself from Laramie made up a large crew.
Rain and storm greeted us for our 8am start. As we drove the rain fell harder then became sleet, which became a light snow at the trail head. Just as we had begun to contemplate a day of walking in the storm to find new rock the sky started to clear. It was enough to encourage us into the wilderness. The day eventually turned to blue sky and the best conditions of the season. All the signs of autumn completed the alpine experience. It is a limited time frame now to boulder at the Lair this season. Some of the snow from last weeks storm system remains on the upper sections of the valley. Conditions however are the very best.

The group walking past another unclimbed classic. This one a huge roof on very good rock, large enough that the entire group pictured stood under it groping holds for a while. It looks to have a V11/12 from the center of the roof and a V14/15 from the depths.

Another view of the unclimbed with Danny Baker

Being the first trip into the area for the majority of the group we started warming up in cold conditions at the Lander Boulder and neighbors. We quickly gravitated to sun warmed stone and avoided the shadows. A first for the season! It felt remarkably sticky with the exceptionally clean rock and the crisp, cold air. I could tell some serious bouldering would get done. While the group climbed in the middle of the boulder field, Chris and I went up to the upper end. Chris has been very active in the Falcon's Lair the past weeks and was anxious to get on some projects. I was excited to see the new lines and finish some things my self. Last week, by himself, Chris went in and completed the central line in the Ice Cave. It is a mega-classic and now World Conqueror V10. On the first go I hit the last crux move, then promptly popped my heel and dabbed. Two more goes were less successful and after that my body felt overly tired and wasn't recovering. A scratchy throat and aches later in the day gave me a better perspective on the cause but still feels like a weak sauce excuse. It was frustrating to fail yesterday, really frustrating no matter the cause. It reminds me to try harder, focus, and make the most of every go.
I tried a few of the other projects that Chris had been working on his own. Beautiful lines on their own and even more impressive as additions to the Lair. Chris finished both in good style. The first was a short and very powerful roof that was dug out of from the snow field that caps the valley. From full power underlings to a balanced and core tensioned end it is a good, solid line. Chris called it Spitfire V12 and is now the hardest line in the Falcon's Lair. Only enough snow was removed to allow for exiting the cave, so please excuse the less than inspiring picture of a very inspiring line. The second, later in the session was Raspberry Delight V10ish? that moves out of the depths of the left side of the Ice Cave. The start is the crux and hard to grade while the entire rest of the problem is far easier. So, that's two V10s in the Ice Cave and a V12 just up the hill! When the valley is finally developed it will be very impressive to see the total of hard lines that Chris will have contributed!

Chris going from the powerful to the delicate on Spitfire V12

It was greatly motivating to watch someone climbing at their best on the best rock! I was inspired to try much harder, going from not being able to start Spitfire to making progress on the V12 first move and feeling good on the next moves which involve a double toe hook lip move!. Despite the encouragement from Chris and his story of many tries to leave the ground too, it was slow progress and I never hit the move. It felt damn hard. Below us the yells of encouragement resonating up the boulder field as others worked their lines. For Wyoming it was a different feeling to have other voices in the area. Normally a Wyoming boulder field is almost completely void of human sound. The silence can be a powerful experience and tool to use for focus on hard lines, but this day was nice to have others around.
All but Seth had to leave early so the valley quickly returned to it's usual silence. I didn't get to spend much time with the rest of the group, so you'll have to view David Lloyd's blog to get the details. I would have liked to gain some perspective on what the newcomers think of the place. Even without getting to spend much time with the others I am really appreciative that they made the trip to join us in such a beautiful place. Hopefully they return to put up some lines of their own. Seth had the goal of climbing Barnyard V4/5, an unbelievably clean sloper line that requires some quickness and fitness to complete. Seth was very close to finishing it, but was thwarted by picking it at the end of a long day. He gave it hell, came close to sending, and inspired Chris to keep bouldering into the evening.

Seth on the classic slopers of Barnyard V4/5

With dwindling light the pads were moved to a gently overhanging wall with small and unique holds. As time ran out on the day another project was left at the Lair. This one, maybe will be Chris's first V13?

Small, perfect, and clean crimps up a very hard project.

The awesome quarter pad tri-pinch on the possible V13 project

Seth, Chris, and I walked out in the dark and stumbled down the trail in the growing darkness. We missed a turn and wandered in pitch black forest for a while, but did find our way out. Our way out to climb another day in an incredible area. Next weekend will be another day in the Lair and maybe one of the last for the season. I have some things to make up for and finish and am very stoked. Those of us going in will be bringing a ton of motivation, but are wondering who else will join us?

Horatio Rock, Wy

2011-09-15T10:53:00.001-06:00

Last weekend, staying in the Laramie area, rather than another trip to Lander, a small group of us went out to Horatio Rock. There are surprisingly few boulders in the Snowy Range, and they tend to be hard to find, but what is there tends to be good to excellent. Horatio Rock is one of those places that stands out from the rest of the local spots. I found the area three seasons back when cutting fire wood in early fall. Never would I have imagined any rock in the area, but there it was. As I turned the trailer around in the small meadow below I noticed the back of a huge boulder hiding in the forest. That boulder was on the local hot list two years back when Guili Zavaschi finished his mega-classic Lord of The Forest V12. Guili didn't actually rate the problem, but did say it was the best he climbed in America. I worked the line with Guili for several sessions before injury to my pinky tendon slowed me down. I rated it based on how it felt to the exit moves, where I fell off several times. I rated the line through the crux moves, but maybe not the red point crux so the grade should hold up. More info here.

Guili, back in the day, moving into the crux sequence of his Lord of The Forest V12.

Anyway, It had been some time since my last visit to Horatio Rock and Lord of The Forest is always on my mind. Seth, Dylan, Dr. Thunder and his lady Rachel, Marla and I all went out to re-visit the boulders. It was quickly obvious that it was too hot to attempt Lord of The Forest, but the place is only partially developed so we went to work having a cleaning and development day. It should be said that Horatio Rock is composed of a fine grain granite of very high quality, but is very sensitive to temperature differences. Maybe more so than anywhere I've bouldered. A warm day will up the grades, a hot day will shut you down. Lord of The Forest was done in the cold as were most of the lines and all have a grade fitted to them in ideal conditions.
We started the day on the Lord of The Forest Boulder and did some of the older warm ups there. One in particular, Lumberjack V4 is a classic for the area.

Dylan on Lumberjack V4. A technical and classic line.

Once the sun started heating the warm ups, we headed to the north side of the mountain to develop some new problems. The north side has a few small boulders, some nice walls, and a larger tower of good stone that provides some bouldering options. It was the right choice to escape the warm temperatures as most of the lines on the north side hide in shadow. We did several good problems and a few fill in problems before the rain chased us away. Some things were cleaned and not yet climbed. I would estimate that the Horatio Rock area is around a third developed at this point. It is my hope that the new kids in town will go out and finish developing the place. Dylan and Seth were both stoked to go back and I know some of the other students new to UW are looking for some first ascents. It is a very good fall destination, so why not?

Seth taking in the knowledge that Dr. Thunder and I keep putting out. This time figuring out (in his mind) the trick foot to Lumberjack V4.

Dylan on the insecure crux move of Momenshun V6/7. One of the new problems put up last weekend.

Seth on the first move of the new problem Radio V5. ShinToe Slab V1 starts on the crimps left of Seth's upper crimping hand. It is a good slab.

Some of the new lines are indeed shorter. Horatio does hold tall lines that will ruin your season should you spill off, but also some classic sit starts to three move wonders. It is the diversity of bouldering that makes it interesting and Horatio Rock holds a good cross section of that variety. It has been some time since I had spent a day on "little" lines, and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Some people's kids these days, having fun on "little" problems at Horatio Rock on the north side. Each problem is only three or four moves long, but are good! Taller stuff is close near by should you want to clean and climb it. Up to 30' if you like!

In an effort to spur some development around here you can click on the below images and then download them. Fit them to your paper size when you print and you should end up with a usable topo for the area. All I ask is that you keep me updated to what goes up, so we can all keep track. The best thing would be to add comments to this post.
A few things to keep in mind at Horatio Rock this fall, directions, and some topos:
1. The warm up wall on the topo has four or five problems up to V4, but we never named anything, so sorry. Feel free to name those lines and others on that wall, but keep track of it.
2. When you go to the Lord of The Forest Boulder please, please, please contribute to the community and add a log or two to the deck being built under the down hill side of the boulder. It will provide a landing for several classic lines that would otherwise break your leg if you fell off the top. A few trips by a few people and we'll have a good landing! The majority of the forest is dead anyway, so no worries about ethics.
4. If it is not on the topo we haven't climbed it yet. So, The Fox Cave (needs to be rap-cleaned), the summit of Horatio Rock hill, and Chunky Wall are not yet developed. Probably some other walls and boulders are sitting around too. Have some fun!

Horatio Rock Area Overview

Horatio Rock Boulder Problems (see overview for locations of the two areas on the topos)

Directions from Laramie, Wyoming: Drive Wyo Highway 230 to Woods Landing and continue up to Wyo-Colo which is a small mountain village on the side of the road (basically a bar and some cabins). Continue a couple more miles on Wyo 230 to the Colorado border, and take the first right turn (NORTH) off, into the national forest (In total, around 42 miles from Laramie to the turn off on the border). Forest Service Rd. 898 (Pelton Creek Road) for about 5 miles will get you to Horatio Rock. Take the first left off of F.S. Rd. 898, which is either F.S. Rd. 521 or 516. Can't remember the number, but go across the bridge that is over Pelton Creek and park a few hundred yards down that road at the obvious parking area. If you only want to see the North Side Boulders you can park off of 898 a bit up the road at the intersection near Chunky Wall.
Let me know if you have any problems using the topos or finding the place. I'm happy to go up in the afternoons too, so just let me know.

After Party At The Lair

2011-09-06T18:15:00.000-06:00

The weekend was a big one for Lander area bouldering. A big crew was assembled from Colorado, Laramie, and Lander to put down some history in the books. Scheduling issues for a few us resulted in a miss of what turned into the main event, the party if you will, which sounded a bit like a really long march up some steep as hell hills. Boulders at the bottom of the hill were the bait and sounded like some good to excellent rock. Monday, was the day I had planned for my party day, and along with David Lloyd, Chris Marley, and Brian Horlick we proceeded. The entirety of the assembled crew in Lander were too pooped to continue on Monday because of two long days before. I was stoked to have that crew there, but would have enjoyed a day in the boulders with them, rather than the brief conversation in a very tired, early morning parking lot. Of the seven who were supposedly pumped to join from Laramie, only Brian committed to a day in the boulders. So, as usual for a Wyoming bouldering day, a small crew of four walked into the Falcon's Lair for the after party.

Some dudes getting ready to party in The Lair

Some good stuff went down during the day and some other good stuff was damn close to going. Brian put up his very first, first ascents, three of them, and you could see the addiction take it's hold. He's a freshman here at UW and had been a follower of this blog prior to deciding on going to Laramie for school. It's a satisfaction finding out that the info on this blog had some influence on a young mind and talent like Brian. He's pumped to develop new rock and he picked the best school in the country for it. When he graduates, he could have hundreds of new problems done. We need more who have that same desire.

Brian all smiles on top of one of his first ascents

David had a highly successful day completing his two objectives. He had a very inspiring repeat of Wind in the Willows V8/9 (yes, that's now a slash grade, but may settle at hard V8), complete with swinging foot cuts in the crux and some true grit for the top out. Not English grit, good western grit, like heavy determination grit. He also finished his super clean rail line he called The Yeti V7, though he claims an ascent with better form is in order. I didn't feel his weight while spotting, but he's claiming a dab. Good honesty and good form I suppose.


David on The Yeti V7. Barn Yard V4? is the very nice lip traverse on the right side.

Chris had his first day at the Falcon's lair and was beyond satisfied. He was ridiculously pumped to be in the area and have a chance at putting up the classic lines. His smile was a big one all day long. I was excited to climb with Chris, as we had only been out a single day together in the past and had vowed to meet up for some bouldering. The guy is super strong and it always motivates me to have a go at things with a bit more energy when climbing with a guy like that. He repeated Wind in the Willows and we went straight to work on the big central line of the Ice Cave. We quickly worked out good beta for the amazing opening moves and bouldering crux of the line, then attempted the entirety. It was super cool to be going at it move for move on the steep wall, each time thinking the other would finish the line. We swapped a good number of opportunities for the other to get the line first, but the last goes of the session had us fail on the final hard move, the redpoint crux. The line is a powerful one with good, big dynamic pulling on perfect stone. It is also a touchy classic, hard to finish, and perfect.

Chris on the opening dynamic move of the soon to be.

Chris and I both rested for a couple of hours in hope of completing the line, but could barely get it started later in the day. Chris also spent part of his rest sending what is absolutely one of the classic lines of the Falcon's Lair. Mortal Angel V?? is a line that we noticed on the first day and every day, but intimidation limited the hope of it going this season. The line is so good, on a previous trip Mr. Capps was heard saying "this rock should be in a museum". I didn't take any pictures of the dyno, since spotting was by far the priority, but there is video coming soon on David Lloyds blog (in addition, some more pictures of the area). On Chris' first go he took a scary fall into rock with few pads. I thought for sure he was broken or worse, but he somehow focused and continued to send the super-classic. He should be in a museum of men. That's right kids, that's a man right there.
Anyway, the after party was fantastic and if it's not clear here, I'm pumped up to get back. You should be too.

A Man of His Era

2011-09-01T07:56:00.000-06:00

10:30 yesterday in the small openness of the Source Gym, from seemingly nowhere in particular, came Dr. Thunder. White sandals, his casual pale polo, and broadly patterned plaid shorts suggesting a changed man. New shades sweeping back longer locks of hair, seen only in his more distant past, suggested a confidence.
We talked of the times, our era, and continued on to the future. The place where dreams go, building foundations for our distant plans. Loosely speaking, and in some moments more serious, we set forth a fantastic agenda. Something of boyhood fantasy, of heroes, but only obtainable by full grown men. A resolute task set forth. To boulder as far as our bodies can endure, on the finest stone, until winter allows us no more.
Then, answering a question understood, yet never asked, Dr. Thunder simply said "I will winter in the Source Gym". Then he was gone.

Dr. Thunder sketching in the night

Falcon's Lair Update

2011-08-21T20:41:00.002-06:00

Yesterday was another day in the Lair. For me a mixed day, but worthwhile. Going in this time with David and Jesse the weather forecast was good, motivation was high, and we had a good number of pads. Warming up in the vicinity of the Lander Boulder a few good new lines went up. Added was a V5 (name not remembered) by David, A V0 and a V3 (names not remembered) by Jesse, and a V3 Dyno I named Boop. The next problem was where my mix came into the day. Pulling very hard on a close left heel, trying a low and powerful roof, my calf went into a solid muscle cramp. The entire muscle balled into a stone hard softball with intense pain. The rest of the day was restricted with a tight and sore left leg. In a strange addition to the mix, all lines I wanted to try involved a left heel move. I gained a massive respect for athletes who play full throttle through similar injury. Taking some time off to hydrate and salvage time for bouldering later in the day gave me time to better consider the area of the Falcon's Lair.

A line on the Riverton Boulder that David and Jesse spent some good time on while I restarted my day. It will be a true classic when finished!

Watching David and Jesse work their lines gave me perspective, encouragement, and mostly a deep motivation to boulder. Stopping to take it all in, the place has grown on me greatly. I estimate 200 problems of very high quality with at least that many to follow as lesser yet worthy problems! Even without bouldering, it is a fantastic place to find ones self in the majesty of the big mountains. Being so focused on observing with my own eyes, only eleven photos were taken the entire day. Once the motivation process started I encouraging the others to go to the upper end of the valley. After the long rest I was feeling ready to test the calf muscle and at the same time study the entire boulder field from above. David had unfinished business in the Ice Cave, Wind in the Willows V8. Jesse made the decision to take a long rest in hope of finishing his project on the Riverton Boulder. And I hoped to have a solid session in the depths of the Ice Cave linking the lowest holds into the finishing moves of Wind in the Willows.

The right half of The Ice Cave. Wind in the Willows originates from the back right while the new project links in from the lowest white edge on the bottom left of the cave. They both finish above the blue pad.

David was incredibly close to finishing his project! For sure the next time he gets on it. I was able to do every move on the link up, but unable to complete what is now another project. It could have and should have gone in a day, but 3 left heels in the roof, flared the calf muscle up, and kept me out of hard effort for the rest of the trip. During the stay under the Ice Cave Jesse had noticed the beautiful line on the neighboring boulder. It is a line that caught our eye on the first day and will be one of the classics of the area. On the first trip the landing was a flat snow landing and the problem very doable. One all trips since, the landing has become a jumbled pile of blocks. It is very photogenic and still a project.

Jesse on the project with garbage landing. It too will be a classic.

Above the Ice Cave snow continues to melt with new boulders emerging and new lines being found. A gorgeous rail on an insanely clean bloc caught our eye right away. Looking like it didn't need a left foot at all, David and I gave it some effort. We unlocked the line at V6 without the obvious start. One or two moves in the beginning may be V10 or harder. Again a waiting classic. Just below snow line I quickly put up a slab bathed in evening light. The rock is the cleanest I've ever been on. Even V0 slabs are fantastic to stroll up in this place. It is named A Fine Evening Indeed V0.
It was a fine evening and a fantastic day. David and Jesse climbed until they couldn't which is incredibly motivating. The entire area is motivating. For myself it has been motivating beyond what I have felt in some time now. Future days are always on my mind now. The calendar is showing open days where there previously weren't any. My calf feels tight as hell, but will be ready by next weekend. It has to be. I'm going bouldering.

A fine evening indeed

The Falcon's Lair

2011-08-08T20:03:00.002-06:00

Yesterday, the 7th of August was the first full day of bouldering in what is now the Falcon's Lair. The name that started as a joke for an area that is no joke, now labels one of Wyoming's best summer bouldering areas (Yes the name is now official and still hard to take seriously). One week ago David Lloyd and I traveled into the Wind River Mountains to find alpine bouldering. What we found caused fits in our sleep and vows to return as soon as we could. We did just that with the good company of Brian Capps and his girl friend Jeanie. As usual, very welcome company.

The Falcon atop it's Lair

We started the day with a long, but easy hike, having only a talus descent/traverse into the boulder field. David's grin was encouraging through the entire hike and grew ever larger as the valley came into view, then the boulders. Warming up on what may be called the Lander Boulder (?), three lines were put up. Squamish Syndrome V2 or V3 a long and good lip traverse, Capps' Slap V3 from a fantastic sloper bulb, and Lander V1 that is an instant classic on great holds (all put up by David). We moved a few feet next door to the Black Fly Boulder and I established Day of the Black Fly V4 on great steep rock.

The classic problem Lander V1 comes out of the roof and up the prow of the big roof.

David on the third ascent of Day of the Black Fly V4.

Once warm it was a bit difficult to decide on where to go next. So much rock and we only had a day, so we went up talus to the highest boulders we had previously found. We passed a good amount of rock on the way up. Two things were better understood on the walk. Some areas of the Falcon's Lair have less rock than expected because the talus is too small, while other areas of the talus have far more rock than expected because the talus is big.

David reconfirming the big blocs of quality stone.

In a single week of melt the large roof we had found, but not been able to look at was now climbable from it's middle. We had hoped for holds and indeed there are holds. Holds from the lower half of the roof will need another week or two of melt to be looked at. Snow melting in the upper talus has now revealed new boulders, the beginning of new boulders emerging, and changed some landings for the worse. All aspects of the alpine boulder field.
In the roof that is now the Ice Cave, named because of new icicles forming under it in the spray of a small stream, two lines were put up. First done was a crisp roof on good holds by David, Cracked Eggs V3, that I found to have an awkward finish for tall guys. The problem however, is very good for any frame size. On the right side of the roof Brian established Wind in the Willows V8, that is a classic and tricky problem on good rock. After nabbing the second of the problem and thinking long and hard I agree that it is a solid V8 and now the hardest line in the Falcon's Lair. It is good to be honest with grades in the beginning of a new bouldering area as those grades will greatly influence all future grades in that same area. Of course comparisons to other areas are just as important.

David coming so very close to the third ascent of Wind in the Willows V8.

Just above the Ice Cave is a classic prow that is now a project. I could blame the rain that soaked the thing but did dry, I could blame the many other boulders that distracted me but didn't hold my interest as much, but it remains a project because it intimidated me. Because bouldering in a talus field takes some getting used to when it's been a while. It is large and gets harder as one moves up the large prow, the landing gets a bit rugged as height increases, and the wind starts to blow. Now it haunts me. I want to get back on it so badly.

Brian in the depths of the Ice Cave with the big prow above.

On the way out two other problems were put up between the warm up area and the Ice Cave. David climbed a very clean arete he named Pika Prow V1+, while I put up a crisp slab on the same boulder named Musk V1. Also on the way out, we passed too many boulders to get on this season and the next.
In all it was a fantastic first day in the Falcon's Lair with good people. It gave us a good understanding of what is actually there. Though we had a relatively easy day of bouldering it was a big day and the potential is good for any grade of problem. With our new understanding of the area new rock will be developed quickly and benchmark grades for the area will be set as comparisons.

Inappropriate conversation, even for grown men, while we sat out the rain in the Ice Cave

The Hike out was absolutely beautiful!

You can read more about the reconnaissance day with David and the bouldering day from this post on David's blog.

In The Summer Time

2011-08-03T08:07:00.001-06:00

Went on an extended weekend to Lander and just returned. Though the place is a sport climbing destination I did not go for that reason. Rather to boulder and more specifically restore some motivation before it is too late. Three weeks of the hottest weather of the season really took the energy out of me, as usual. So I went and looked for rock, as usual. Motivation was low enough I didn't even post several good finds on this blog. In the Wind River Mountains however, some energy was renewed. Motivation found a way back and all I can think of is bouldering. All that was needed was a new boulder field of really good rock.
Many years back in the process of doing foolish things that could only be categorized as alpine climbing I noticed a large valley of many, many boulders close to a trail head. Thinking only of the alpine objective ahead, of the large granite walls and ice, I walked on by. The images in my head of boulders far below in the valley stayed with me. Those images resurfaced in my mind over the past weeks and I had to take another look.

With the help of David Lloyd, who has been fully devoted to developing new rock in the Lander area for two years now, we made plans to do a day trip with no pads. We took an unusual late start of 9am and easily made it to the upper end of the boulder field and snow in very little time. Despite looking for rock close to the road (turned out to be chossy Vedauwoo looking stuff) and a rather long bushwhack through overgrown talus, and a long slog up a mountain side, we made it back to the main trail and into the boulders with most of the day remaining. We walked the upper half mile of the boulder field that is maybe a long mile in total and returned to the trail easily. From the trail it is a quick bushwhack of open slabs and some open forest to the edge of the boulders. We quickly realized day trips with pads are completely possible. We were in Lander by 6pm without trying to rush any part of the day!
I was close to doing this reconnaissance silently and alone, but chose to have another set of eyes. At times I have found rock that would have been better judged with other eyes and at times I've been happy to go at it alone. On this trip, knowing the rock would be good and having little doubt about possibility, I simply chose to go with someone who could appreciate the place and rock. David and I shared a great day of exploration. We talked for hours about many things in life. Life, bouldering, motivation, lack of motivation, life not including climbing, emotions, the simple things in life, the complex, and then we talked about the best granite. The upper end of the boulder field is the best granite I've seen! To be clear, not the best rock, not the best gneiss, but the best granite.

Very good granite! The center boulder contains a large roof, mostly obscured by snow, the size of Unshackled at Lincoln Lake (for scale). The prow at right ramped my motivation from zero to hero.

A very excited David Lloyd in the thick of it. This is somewhere in the middle of the upper half of the boulder field and the point at which we really started to understand the good news.


The large boulders that mark the boulder field's center. From the upper end to this pile is a blur of good rock and memories clouded by excited rants and random moments of joy as we groped holds.

As a boulderer who predominately explores and develops new rock it is becoming harder to find things that motivate on the same level as the best things I've found and climbed. Often good boulders can be passed up in the hope of finding even better boulders. Boulders are like drugs and no addict wants good drugs when they can have the best drugs. This boulder field is a fine drug indeed. Only a single problem was climbed in the day. A perfect slab with good friction and a decent landing. I called it Rusty is a Guy I Don't Know V0. It was enough to get me hooked.

Rusty is a Guy I don't Know V0 climbs from the lowest part of the slab to the apex. For scale the line is around 12 to 15 feet tall.

With motivation now high, David and I will be going back very soon to start developing! Now, if this post seems to have a lack of direction, location, and anything else that gives much of a hint it is for good reason. I've found enough rock in my life to know when things are rare. This is rare, and I would like to take a selfish look for a few sessions before going crazy with it. I like to understand an area before going to far with it and this one is an abstract at this time.

Lake Marie Boulders

2011-07-19T16:22:00.001-06:00

Having just passed on a trip to the cool weather of an Alaska bouldering trip the focus now has been on finding cool rock closer to home. The challenge this season is doubly so. Summer is getting hot. It has become a challenge to find cool rock, but spring was wet and winter snows were record breaking. With snow melting and pooling all the water has equaled thick bugs. A thin window exists between snow line and thriving insect line. Having successfully spent this time of the year in the higher mountains of past summers myself and Mike Haftner decided to give the boulders of the Lake Marie area in the Snowy Range a try. There are several good bouldering areas in the Snowy Range including Lake Marie and a few I've posted on before, Horatio Rock and Bear Lake. At this time Horatio is well within bug hell, while the 3 mile long road into Bear Lake is still buried under 20 foot drifts.
I was hoping to show Mike some newer areas that had been developed a few summers back. Knowing Mike has just started climbing again after a long injury break, I was thinking his perspective on grades would be foggy and down rates would be far less likely. Snow from the past epic of a winter didn't give us a chance. Boulders that were developed three years ago in early July aren't showing themselves yet. Not even a hint was given as to were we could start digging for most of them! Luckily there are some old classic lines on lower boulders that melt out sooner. Some of those were still half buried in what has to be some sort of skier cult curse. In any case, the classic boulders of Lake Marie, including an old John Gill line are as good as they ever were. Mike too showed he had some fire left after a long hiatus from real rock.

Mike warming up on a V3 on the Iced Earth Boulder

It was a god day on cool rock in an absolutely beautiful setting. If you've not been to the Lake Marie area for bouldering I would highly encourage you to go. The rock is not the best in most cases, being a brittle quartzite with poor friction. There are however a few boulders with a few lines that are incredibly good. It's the kind of place you bring a wool hat no matter the date. Summer bouldering in the high mountains can't be beat this time of the year.
To get to the Lake Marie boulders from Laramie:
Drive Wyo 130 from Laramie to Centennial and continue through Centennial after a coffee stop. Drive Wyo 130 to the top of the mountain and park under the looming 900' wall of Medicine Bow Peak either at the Mirror Lake picnic area (closed now under 20 feet of snow) or at the Lake Marie parking lot and walk the paved path and gravel road back around to the Mirror Lake picnic area. From the out house on the top of the hill in the picnic grounds (closest paved area to the alpine walls) walk directly at the biggest alpine face. walk through the meadow or snow drift under the small talus field and drop down toward the inlet creek of Lake Marie. The Gill Boulder, home to one of America's oldest problems, sits along the creek at the base of the talus. Above the Gill Boulder, in the talus coming off the diamond of Med. Bow Peak, is the Drift Boulder, The Iced Earth Boulder, the White Cube and many other smaller boulders all around. Those boulders listed are from bottom to top of the talus. Sure, I should leave a topo on this blog as there are many problems in the area, but time hasn't allowed it yet.


Mike on the V6 sit start to the classic Gill Problem. Look for the Gill arrow painted on the wall above Mike's right hand.

Mike in his sexy short shorts trying Magdalena V8 on the Gill Boulder.

Three seasons ago while wading through the oppressive heat of a hot summer I started looking for harder lines in the Lake Marie area. Several went up, but the classic for sure is Magdalena V8 on the Gill Boulder. It starts under a small roof on the far right side, climbs to good incuts, then fires directly across the entire face of the boulder to link into the Gill Problem. It was the same summer that Ethan McMahan and Austin Jenson joined me for developing the newer stuff in the area. Those were the best days I've spent at the Lake Marie Boulders and I think of them often when motivation is scarce.

Mike on an unnamed V7 on the White Cube Boulder. One of the very classic lines for the area.

There is a lot more to show for the area, but snow will have to melt. If my intentions have some sway I will make it out to Bear lake and Horatio Rock too. Posts with directions will be layed down here shortly after those visits. Until then you can go back through my blog archive to find images and some info on those other areas. If you have questions regarding the boulders in this post or any other for that matter, drop me an email and I can give better info/directions.

Finland Bouldering

2011-07-04T09:15:00.001-06:00

Finland is not a place that would normally be thought of as a bouldering destination. With rolling to completely flat country side, deep mossy forests, and somewhere in the neighborhood of 188,000 lakes it is a challenge to imagine much there for the boulderer. It is even harder to imagine good bouldering when compared to other European destinations that actually have mountains to shed rock. Despite established bouldering areas that have existed for many years the place was largely unknown until one Nalle Hukkataival, a Fin, started climbing hard and the global community noticed. Images of single erratic blocs with beautiful hard lines started showing. At least for a few of us it became a destination to visit one day.

The Finnish country side. Boulders are out there somewhere.

For me it was a life list destination. My mothers side of the Family all still live in Finland. It is her first language. As a descendant of that lineage I thought it a good trip, one to touch my roots, and some Soumi stone.
A nearly three week visit to southern Finland has just been completed with my family. For the first two weeks it rained every day, but I did manage to visit, for a full day, one of Finland's best bouldering areas Mynämäki. It is located in southwest Finland in the Turku area. Later in the trip I was able to visit three other areas, two in the Helsinki area and one close to Hyvinkää, just north of Helsinki. There is good information on climbing in Finland, though a bit dated in some cases, on Slouppi.
A quick note on training for this trip: Knowing my time would be very limited for bouldering I trained for this trip differently than any other. For the the three weeks prior to the trip I trained my onsight/flash ability which is generally poor. Going to the Source Gym I would pick out problems while sitting on the mats. Not feeling holds, but just imagining things anywhere from a few moves to 70 moves, then getting on and trying as hard as possible. The theory was to be able to do things quickly, while maybe not as hard as possible, as hard as I could in a few tries. The week before departure I bouldered every day in the gym, beating my body to a new level of sore. The recovery would carry me to a peak right when my Finland schedule had me bouldering. It all worked really well and I was able to onsight or flash many problems up to 7c. I nearly sent an 8a at the end of a 6 hour session. Waiting all day for it to dry, with sore fingers, and a few damp holds, I finally gave it few goes using the training to it's fullest. All the moves went fast, another day would have been all that was needed.
I also only carried a single small Metolius Sketch Pad. Many of the best problems had less than good landing and I was unable to try them because of the very limited landing. However, the pad is very light and made travel by train or auto, which happened every few days, very easy. The specific training also helped me be better set for the many different body positions and falling from unique moves, making the single small pad o.k. in most cases.
Mynämäki
Early on in the trip we visited family living in the Turku area. Turku is a larger city (for Finland) on the southwestern coast and is a very old city. It is built on granite, from local granite, and is surrounded by granite. When you drive to the area you can tell right away that the deep mossy forests hide something. Trolls no doubt, but many boulders too. Completely surprised by the amount of rock I hoped for a break in the rain. The area contains around 350 problems and many projects according to the 2006 topo. I imagine the number is larger now and many of the projects are now established lines. Rock quality is good to great, with a bit of aggressiveness and bite to keep your tips hard. Boulders are erratics from the ice age and some are gigantic! There are no mountains at all, hills are very minor in the range of a few meters to maybe tens of meters, but the boulders sit there with no good suggestion of where they were born. Some the size of a barn can't be seen only meters from the road. The forest is thick and dark and full of mystery. It is some of the best bouldering I've seen in a long time both for quality, quantity, and of course location.


Huge boulders sitting in the dark forest characterize Mynämäki bouldering. (Kivi 1 in Area 71 A of Mynämäki)

Another big one. This one, Kivi 1 in Area 71 C.

There are many different sectors in the Mynämäki boulder fields, each with several bouldering areas inside each sector. Choosing sector (Area 71) because of it's proximity to Turku (other areas are farther down the road) and seemingly good variety of problems, we were not disappointed. In a pleasant surprise of timing we ended up with a seven hour session rather than the planned few hours. I climbed until my fingers were raw and my body too tired to finish a final 7a. One of the few times failing on a 7a was a good feeling!


One of the classics of the trip. Pienokaiseni 7b on Kivi 1, Area 71 C. The project to the left of this line, hidden in the shadow of the bulge is one of the best lines I've seen anywhere. It felt like 8a+/8b.

Marla climbing a nice little line she had to do, based on the similar name, Marja 5+, Area 71 B.

Another classic, Millyways 8a, Area 71 A.

Another view of Millyways 8a. I quickly figured the moves to a distinct crux move. The line works its way up from where I'm holding on, but for several goes I attempted to continue right through the entire steep portion of the wall. Only after exhausting myself did I figure out that the 8a goes up, not right at this point. Did the final moves, but could never get the fire lit to do them all together. The right version seamed to be 8b.

Marla picking forest strawberries along the farm road to Area 71. Finland is a country full of delicious berries. Strawberries and a few forest blueberries were our reward. Currents, cloud berries, and the prime of the massive blueberry crop come later in the summer.

The reward of a long day

Piilolampi
Midway through the trip I had a half day chance to visit this area. A "small cousin" of mine, Sakari, who is an avid orienteering expert knew the area and drove me out for a session. It turned out to be only five minutes from his house. This is a nice little bouldering are made of very well textured diorite. Of all the days in Finland this was the hottest and luckily it was the best choice for a hot day. The rock has an amazing texture! Even with sweaty tips and soft shoes holds felt secure. This could be an amazing place for slopers when the weather is cold. Some of the routes and roped projects looked really good! It is literally a road side area.
Sakari took me out for the day and also showed me the local crag Jaanankallio. It is a place I would like to visit again and with a rope too.

Sakari, my guide for the day at Piilolampi.

Hiekkakallio, the closest wall to the road at Piilolampi. This wall was packed with very high quality 6a+ to 7a+ problems. Not understanding the topo all that well I ended up doing a combination problem of a 7a and 6c that felt about 7b to me.

Osavaltiot had a number of good problems on amazingly textured rock. Urrpo! 7a was one of the best slabs I've done.

Hankki is a wall that is listed as projects from 7+ to 8+. One of the few times I wished I would have lugged a huge pad around was when Sakari and I stood under this wall.

Koivusaari
A small island on the west edge of Helsinki that has a single boulder! With the guiding help of my mother's cousin Isto we visited this sea side boulder on my last day. It is said to have around 100 problems on, variations of course, but also some classic original lines. The rock quality is fantastic and the many problems are all high quality. One of the best moderate problems in Finland (in my opinion) is here, though it has a bad landing, and the location is amazing. There is a unique feeling while chalking up on the edge of the Finnish archipelago, as sail boats drift by and a cool sea breeze dries the finger tips. Really, a recommended location and being directly off a main highway it could theoretically be visited in a three hour session, say during a layover at the Helsinki airport.

Isto and myself standing by the Koivusaari boulder with the sea in the background.

Another view of the Koivusaari boulder. Peppu sit start 7c is the problem in the center of the bulge and the hardest flash of my trip.

The temperatures were absolutely perfect on the morning we visited this boulder. Knowing it was my final day in Finland and having ideal conditions I went to work Flashing everything I could. I managed to flash several 7a, 7a+, 7b, and a 7c in the hour and a half session.
Bemböle
Helsinki area is actually made up of three cities connected. Vantaa to the east, Helsinki in the middle, and Espoo on the eastern edge. My mother's cousin Isto lives in Espoo, so a visit to the local area was of course needed. Bemböle is small area of a few boulders and crags located in the forest between houses of a beautiful old neighborhood. Again, the rock quality was great and one of the single best problems of the trip was done as the final problem of my trip. Unfortunately, a portion of one the better walls was back filled with several meters of fill dirt. Somewhere around 8 problems were buried. The right side remains still, and is a good place to climb well featured and tall problems.

Napero Plus 6a, one of the best 6a problems ever!

Juhannus
My family timed the trip so that we could celebrate Juhannus (Midsummer festival) in the Finnish tradition. We loaded up all that could fit in two cars and drove out to the eastern lake country of Finland where the family have a few summer cottages. It is said that the majority of Finnish cities and towns and Helsinki empty into the country side at this time. It was obvious as we pulled into line with thousands of autos heading north out of the city. Maybe a few cars went south on the other side of the road. The lake was beautiful and completely peaceful. We spent three days gorging ourselves on wonderful foods like herring, salmon, potatoes with dill, breads, sausages, home picked and made current juice, Finnish Karhu beer and coffee. We rowed and sailed boats, kids fished, we took sauna and swam, and had the necessary bonfire on Juhannus eve. I also found some unclimbed boulders in the forest, but the rain kept them too damp. I did not get a first ascent in Finland. It was my only trip, ever, where I did not put up a new line. Obviously I will be going back to Soumi.

Getting our Juhannus fire stoked while the relatives cook traditional Finnish sausage. It is 10pm in this picture and full day light!

Juhannus bonfire across the lake. This picture was taken at 1am with the sun still showing color in the sky.

Rainy Day Fun

2011-05-26T08:52:00.001-06:00

The past week and a half was very rainy, yet very fun. Maybe not as much fun as The Cat In The Hat had on that infamous rainy day back in 1957, but worthwhile none the less. Religiously watching weather updates and looping satellite images allowed Dr. Thunder and myself to pick and choose our bouldering destinations. Laramie is in fact a bouldering mecca and choices abound in every direction from town. Throughout the past week we managed several good days while many others stayed inside while it poured.
Days we bouldered were crisp and cold with just a touch of humidity for the sticky sloper move or two. On two of the more tormented days of rain we searched for new rock. Probably a mistake! Like a kid in a candy store, we found another candy store in the back alley. This one behind the first store, and where parental supervision is not a factor. Once again, new, massive, perfect boulders!
On days we bouldered Neverland and Needle Peak were the priority destinations. Projects at both are always calling. Several newer sectors of Neverland had not been seen by Bryan, I mean Dr. Thunder, so that too was a priority. I had started developing one by myself last fall and couldn't resist the possibility with more pads and a spot. We did some new warm ups and moved on to the projects in other sectors.

Dr. Thunder on Frontier Psychiatrist V8.

I put up Frontier Psychiatrist V8 during part of our warm up session in the newer sector. Bryan accused me of picking a problem that was "my style". Makes me think he meant to say "classic".

Another view of the Frontier Wall to give a better sense of scale.

Our primary focus in the Neverland area was to continue working on the Triple X Roof (You can look at the last post and posts from last fall to see images of it). Progress was made, including now doing all the moves except a single crux move toward the end of the roof. We could each do several moves in a row both before and after the undone crux move and were much closer on the single crux move, consistently snagging the hold, but not hanging it. I'm feeling really motivated to finish the line now that I know for sure I can do it!
Going to the Saratoga Valley to finish some old projects we experienced a bit more rain than we would have liked and spent a portion of a day at Bennett Peak exploring some new rock in an old school area.

The North Platte River cuts Bennett Peak like a knife and exposes a good amount of quality rock.

Some new rock in the Bennett Peak area.

We did get to do some bouldering at Needle Peak between rain spats and Bryan Vansickle, Dr. Thunder finished the New Cactus Project! It is now Apocalypto V10, named because it was done on the day of scheduled apocalypse from last week. He even finished it within minutes of 6pm deadline. Again, you can go to the last post for an image, as I was spotting the tall topout rather than taking pictures of the last moments of a project. Sadly, because of severely shitty wind we did not get to finish the Silicone Parts Project. Instead we decided on trying the Polish Project. Not surprisingly it is still a project.
Other fun was had, not just relating to rocks. The Saratoga hot springs are always interesting because of who you meet soaking in the pool. They did not disappoint this past week. We met a fella who, though rather simple in the mind and very friendly, told a long and hard to follow story about moose. Another fella, sitting near by, hung on his every word adding his own details about moose. The second fella told a story of how one died and floated down the river. The next hot springs session included the largest family I've ever seen, ever. It was scary and sad to see the "American Family" that the rest of the world describes. Amazingly over weight and super loud. It looked like the Walrus cage at the zoo. Dr. Thunder was so inspired he didn't touch his bag of Cheetos at all on the drive home. No celebration at all for putting up Apocalypto. With the completely random experiences at the hot springs every time, we always stop and soak. It is a rare local flavor that is becoming less in our busy world.

Rainy Day sledding session with Dr. Thunder and Amiee dog

Getting Busy

2011-05-15T09:14:00.000-06:00

Spring has been busy so far. Busy with work, busy with play, and busy getting everything ready for a trip to Finland in a few weeks. I'll get to the Finland stuff later and for now give a few pictures from the past while.
Bryan Vansickle (aka Dr. Thunder) has been in town for the week on is seasonal pilgrimage to work in northern Wyoming. Trying to convince him to stay another week and finish some things up here is part of the motivation to post on the blog again. Last fall had us working on several harder problems in several areas in addition to finding several new areas we wanted to develop. When winter set in an unsatisfied feeling followed and the waiting game began. After waiting all winter to get back on things we finally have! Being a bit unfocused, we've only spent a day on each project, but progress from last season was made on each one! Now if Bryan will stay the week, we can actually finish some lines and satisfaction set in for the season.
Below are some random images from the past weeks.

Some random pile at Neverland

Dr. Thunder opening the road to another pile at Neverland

The Silicone Parts Project, Needle Peak, Wy


The New Cactus Project, Needle Peak, Wy. Bryan was very close to finishing this project and would be crazy to not stay the week to finish it!

Dr. Thunder on the FA of Triangle Man in the Finger Paint cave of Neverland. Lots of good steep roof climbing here!


The Triple X roof has a 6 foot drift under it now, which kills the first two moves, but allowed us to try the top out and high crux with a great landing. Now is the time to get on this thing and finish it!

With the deep snow behind the pads we were able to find good sequences through the roof. Now all that is left to do is the linkup. This will be a very hard line!

Blam! Source Gym Shirts!

2011-04-14T20:31:00.000-06:00

Finally, after a real long time and many requests I got around to having some Source Gym t-shirts printed. Andrew and Josh at Bohemus Project did the printing. Bohemus is local to Laramie, Wy and have been printing very nice screens for years now, so I felt excited about getting them a drawing and seeing what they could do with it. We decided on red shirts since red is the fastest color. Keeping things in America we chose American Apparel 50/50 tees and the printing size, color, and layout was up to Andrew and Josh.
The design for the shirt is a drawing that I had done in honor of the source crimp sets that have given the gym a good portion of it's identity. The Bohemus guys noticed that I tend to play with the colors of the crimps to get custom blends each pour and they chose to do the same with the fill colors on the shirts. The result is a unique print on the back of each and every shirt. The resulting shirts are excellent and are done in a sort of "classic" style as some have mentioned. Trucker caps with the current design and some other, more complex drawings will be done when this limited printing gets sold out.

The gym is charging $18.oo for gym members and $22.oo for non-members per shirt. An email to davinbagdonas@gmail.com or a txt to me will get you one. Sizes s, m, l, and xl are available (we already sold out of xs) and the color variety is shown below.

If it stops snowing and blowing outside I might have something to actually write about in the near future. When trying to get going in the gym this past week, it was easy to feel the motivation already outside. Anxious to feel the speed of the new red shirt on the old projects of last fall.

Secret Areas vs. Low Key Areas

2011-04-10T19:05:00.001-06:00

The idea of areas as being secret has been on my mind as of late. After returning from a week long trip to an actual secret area I thought it would be a good time to clear some things up. A good time to make a statement and share my views with the few who read this blog.
As spring moves forward and the boulder fields emerge from the snow, it has been asked of me many times "Have you been going out to your secret areas?". Also, questions and comments like "Why keep it a secret?" and "you should post it on Mountain Project (or some other community site)!" come up often. I imagine that it is the questions that got my mind rolling in the first place. To start off with I will say that I have only one secret area. Only a single secret area and it is a secret for good reason/s. On the other hand I have a large number of areas that I would put under the general category of low key. And again they are low key for good reason/s. Low key as the Urban Dictionary defines it is as follows:
1. low key
to keep something low key: to not announce it; to have a quiet gathering; opposite of a large party or big group of people; not much emphasis.
Secret is of course a secret and posting a definition seems like a waist if text here.

SECRET AREAS:
Everyone hears about secret areas being developed. Secrets have always been and always will be a large part of the climbing world. Reasons are many but have something to do with quality, quantity and maybe just secretive locals. Wyoming has all of that and some other reasons too. I can say that I have only one secret area. My reasons are all of the above and a larger one too, being a sacred place for me beyond climbing. Simply put, climbing is not everything, other more valuable life experiences are out there and one of those just happens to be a place that also has boulders that I love. When I started climbing I had no idea that it would consume my life in the way that it has. Many years of life had gone by before climbing found me or I found climbing and in those years of my childhood I had heard of a beautiful and wild place from my father. The place was sacred to him and then to me before I ever climbed. Then as my father watched climbing take over as my passion he suggested the place as a good possibility for my passion and it was just that, a good place for my passion. My dad passed in 2007 after a long fight and with that my secret place became a far more meaningful place to me. Like I said, there are other life experiences that are more important than climbing.
I have shared the place with a few people and I hope they understand what it means to me. I think they do. What strength it holds in my heart should be evident as I have shared it, but I always have a fear of some one wanting to advertise. I fear that the simple motivation of climbing will ruin a larger meaning. There are millions upon millions of boulders in the world and the ones I keep secret, I feel, can be saved for later. Secrets do not last forever and this one won't either, but for now I am very appreciative of it. For those of you who know, PLEASE keep it secret for now.

Others have secret areas because of the climbing and only the climbing. I respect their requests for secrecy and you should too. Respect gets paid back with respect and every person has his own reasons. Dealing with those secrets as someone who doesn't know the secret is a different matter and may better be applied to the idea of a low key area below. There is a chance that a secret area is actually just low key.

LOW KEY AREAS:
It was early on in my climbing life that I started to look for new rock. Growing up in Wyoming it is only natural that a young man would wander into the unknown in search of adventure. It was around that same time I was being exposed to the "developed" climbing world in areas like Vedauwoo, Indian Creek, The Wind Rivers, RMNP (as a route climber at first and later as a boulderer), and several others. Comparing new rock to old my conclusion was that the only difference between the two is the number of people who visit and talk about it. So, it made sense to tell people about the new rock and it would become as famous as the old rock as people visited and talked about it. What I didn't see at that time is the selfish motivations that sadly inhabit the climbing community and humans in general. The desire to make a name for ones self and to experience the fame of everyone knowing your name and what you have done is a huge driving force in much of the community. It would be dishonest to say that I am pure and have never had those thoughts, we all have, but I think we can agree some have it worse than others and many of us end up climbing for the love of it.
Around a similar time that Indian Creek, RMNP and areas in Wyoming were becoming overly used by the community I was busy telling anyone who would listen about new rock that I had found. Regulations hit those mentioned areas hard (Hueco Tanks and other areas too) and around the same time, areas I had found/developed that had a place in my heart, became my window into the selfish side of things. Without mention of names or places I can say that people who acted as friends went behind my and others backs to spread rumor, slander and lies in an effort to claim things as their own in hope of becoming "known". Other things happened to areas that I loved. Holds were chipped, names of climbs and problems were changed and people started calling each other out on things they had climbed. I was called out on several new routes/boulders I had put up and in good form re-climbed them first go using the beta I had described when describing the FA. Basically, the whole climbing community negativity reared it's ugly head as we all to often see on the online forums and posts these days.
Of course, the vast majority of the time the community was supportive and absolutely fantastic times ensued. They were the glory days of my climbing life. It was the rare dark days that made me wonder why so much effort was put into the whole thing. I found it easier to just climb with my small crew and leave it at that. It was such a difference to climb for our selves. We quickly learned to avoid other motivations, great friendships developed, and too many great days were spent climbing for no other reason but to climb.
When the climbing web sites started to pop up and route data bases were being built I thought it was a great way to get the information out there without the above described back stabbings. A few posts resulted in a mass of iternet drama and again it wasn't worth my effort. I do believe that internet data bases of routes/boulders are a huge benefit and it is really more of a problem in my local community than the climbing community in general. In any case, the idea of a low key area became the working model of new rock development and has worked for many years now.
The idea is a simple one. When I or a friend find new rock we clean and climb it with the small crew we normally climb with. After thousands of first ascents and only hundreds of repeats it is clear that I don't climb to make a name. I climb to climb and as I invite others to come along and enjoy the great rocks we develop they too seem to be the ones who climb to climb. It is a self perpetuating system in a positive way just as there is a system that self perpetuates in a negative way. We all climb for the love of it, so there are no issues and we don't advertise. There is no motivation to be know with any of us and as people become curious as to what we're up to we invite them along. I'm always amazed at how many people are so frantic to hear every detail of an area, but never show up to climb when they get invited without the advertising and details. The result is a low key area that grows at a healthy rate and as of yet big crowds haven't resulted in heavy regulations. With small growth and reasonable impact we have yet to see the problems of the big areas that get advertised. We also end up with great crews of boulderers who truly love climbing and don't give a damn about names and ratings. Wyoming remains wild despite hundreds of new problems going up every year.

These guys climb for themselves at the low key area of Needle Peak, Wy.

New Rock Here, New Rock There, New Rock is Everywhere

2011-03-24T07:56:00.000-06:00

Last week was spring break here in Wyoming. Despite not actually having a spring break at my newish job, I took the time off anyway and made the most of it. Hard training has been motivating the climbing community here for some weeks now and using the break as an actual break was a first for me. My goal was to get a good rest in and be ready for the good conditions that are suggesting a few old projects will get done soon. Little climbing took place.Spent some time looking at new rock and doing a few easier things to stay limber.
First in Wyoming in the ever expanding "Neverland" Bryan Vansickle and myself walked a new sector of stone and steep walls. Yet another pile of steep rock has been found and another life time is now needed. With all the rock in Wyoming my needed lifetime count is in the double digits now. The snow was still deep in the sector we walked, but other areas are completely void of snow. Assurance that spring is stumbling from the blocks and getting it's usual rocky mountain start.

Bryan was ready to climb even with soaked feet and wet pants from hours of post hole struggles. We stopped at a previously found sector and put up a couple of new lines. A simple warm up in the V1 range and a V5/6 that included a very nice floating dyno to a big sloping lip. I don't know what Bryan named either one.

B Vansick as he is now called when he wears his "to fit in" hipster shades on his V5/6 dyno problem.

Bryan left town to go back to work and my wife, dog, and I drove south to the Moab, Utah area for some warmer weather and sun. We had three goals in mind for the short road trip. Avoid the tourist hell traps of the area while finding new rock for bouldering, and getting our water addicted dog some solid swim time. Years ago when I climbed trad and only trad I would see huge boulder fields in the Utah back country and had always dreamed of going back without a rope. Now firmly out of the trad community, thus void of the criticism that lay upon pebble wrestling , I carried only a single pad and didn't even look up at the old cracks. The red sandstone of the area, when in the correct geological formation is very good quality. Better put together than Joe's Valley and maybe better friction. The rock has fewer holds for the most part, but smearing on blank walls was a nice change from the precision feet of the local granite/gneiss. two days of reconnaissance yeilded several extensive areas and a few problems up to about V7. In conclusion, there is a huge amount of good rock in the area for bouldering and I'm not talking the Big Bend Boulders. I'm talking about all the other piles of stone, some blocky and square like the Big Bend, some weather worn and featured, all worth a trip and closer than Joe's Valley.

Amiee Dog heaven is a lazy bend on a muddy river where sticks have been washed ashore for many years, and an arm to throw them is always near.

One that got away

Five Ten Blackwing Review

2011-02-25T14:33:00.002-07:00

Review after the first day:
Now, this may sound like a shoe review from a guy who climbs for Five Ten, who has been asked to do such a review. It is in fact not that at all. Simply put, I was never asked to do this review. I am so impressed with this shoe I wanted to share it and give some fit information which is greatly lacking online in the current e-stores. I have only felt this good about a shoe once before in my life and that was the Jet 7.
On Monday I received my new pair of Blackwing from Five Ten which has now very much added to the fire of spring bouldering. Since Five Ten had decided to discontinue the Jet 7 I have been worried about what my next go-to shoe might be. Sizing is always a question when it comes to Five Ten, as I fit a size 8.5 Anasazi, a size 8 Moccasym, a size 8 in Jet 7, and a size 9.5 in the Team Shoe. I fit a size 10 in the Blackwing on this order. They fit like a glove and are maybe a 1/4 size larger than my old Jet 7. After only a few minutes there is no question what my go-to shoes is. These are probably the best shoe I have ever put on my foot!

The Five Ten Blackwing in all their glory

Five Ten advertises the shoe as a velcro version of the Dragon. It is not. It is much closer to the Jet 7 and would be better described as a more sensitive version of the Dragon with thinner toe rubber and more flexible last. The shoe is far softer than the Team Shoe which was my only complaint of the team shoe. Many people of course prefer the stiffer Team Shoe to scum and hook, but I prefer a soft, down turned shoe with a larger volume arch that I can mush into small features and rock up on solid heels. A shoe that can fit any hold in a roof and still smear on the desperate slab top is what I'm talking about. Part of fitting a shoe that works for me is to not size my shoe as possible by ramming fully bent toes into the toe box. I much prefer the strength of my own foot over the strength of the last of the shoe, and ride a semi-bent toe that can still flex and grab. Maybe an old holdover from my crack climbing days, but the Blackwing flexes just the way I like and strong feet make it even better. If you have a weaker feet and prefer the shoe to do the work and your toes to burn, you can go down a half size and the Blackwing would be perfect. A size 9.5 for instance would still fit me very well in that situation.
One complaint I had from the Team Shoe was that the toe box was too boxy and would not give for precise foot work on granite and often times small feet in slots would not fit. A particular project I have been working on had a very small sloping foot in a deep slot. The toe box of the Team Shoe would push my foot off the hold. My Anasazi were not sensitive enough for the project and I was left with yet another unfinished line. With the new shoes my foot fits the slot and the toe box rubber is stiff enough to mold the slot rather than push my foot off. Very excited about the new shoe to say the least.

Review after a few days of use:
I just finished fore-running the Friday Night Bouldering Competition problems using the Blackwing shoes. The competition is held at the University of Wyoming climbing gym and tends to be vertical or just past vertical with only a single small bouldering cave. I have always used the Anasazi for the fore-run, but decided to use the new rubber. I climbed 42 problems in them from V0-- to V9/10 or so and am floored at how well these performed. They edge, they smear, they toe and heel hook, and they stick to things that I've never thought of sticking to and do it on every angle of terrain.
It is rare to find an all around shoe for bouldering that is down-turned. This may actually be the only pair of down-turned shoes that I feel completely comfortable putting on for hard slabs. In a roof there is no other choice. I am reminded of a very long roof that has often carried my imagination. The roof is around 35 feet long and all huge sloper rails. With the Blackwing my imagination will become reality in April when I go to lay siege on the roof.
As for the competition problems, I had to re-fore-run many of the advanced in my two year old, totally blown out Anasazi to be sure that the problems were not flukes of good rubber. Some were, and feet were adjusted to accommodate lesser rubber and the average shoe.

Another view of the best shoes in the world

As for fit. The size 10 for me is still very true to the above size info. I can say with complete confidence that a size 9.5 would be a bit tight for my taste.
Overall, a fantastic shoe has been introduced to the market that will for sure bring many people to the next level. If you are looking for a do everything bouldering shoe the Blackwing should be on the short list of possible shoes. Enjoy!

Whispers of Spring

2011-02-24T10:35:00.001-07:00

Winter deep freeze is finally on the way out, I think and hope. It has been a few weeks since the last very cold and each week gets a bit more like spring. Bouldering outside has been pleasant and the snow is quickly loosing the battle to sun and wind. It was a long run through this winter. I don't think we've had the deep cold like that in several winters. Of course we always get a week or two of the far below zero here in Wyoming, but this time you could feel the need the cold had to take any warmth and feeling of life. It wanted to take all hope and leave us frozen with no chance to go outside. I know this because old man winter himself imprinted his eye on the window of my study for four days during the last deep freeze. I knew of course that such determination is always one of desperation and it made me smile to know that the old guy was loosing his grasp. Now the sun carries warmth and the long winter is allowing us to go outside and boulder on real rock. Focus goes back to the leftover projects and rock we found but never had the chance to clean and climb.

The eye of winter staring into my study. A sure sign of old man winter's desperation.

The past weeks have been busy. Many orders came through for Source Holds, which were greatly unexpected and very welcome. Every dollar helps our little bouldering gym pay rent and become a better training ground. Also unexpected was the quick increase of new Source Gym Members the past weeks. People in Laramie are excited for spring and being as strong and fit as possible. Because of the new income and increased membership numbers I have been able to mold new shapes and am in the process of having Source Gym t-shirts printed. The Source Gym shirts will be printed on American Apparel cotton and will be $15 a piece. I will update on the new shapes and shirts as things become actual products. I've been thinking of adding a separate blog for the Source Gym and related posts so that folks can get direct information on the subject.

Famous Source Crimps getting sorted for shipping to all sides of the country.

A group of us spent the past weekend re-setting all of the walls in the gym which includes many hundreds of holds. The re-set resulted in a stiff wall with many hard problems, but also a wall with better holds for endurance and power endurance. The motivation is now very high and my back has been very sore from too many hours on the poor holds on steep walls.

In other news Bryan Vansickle finally got around to creating the oh so important climbers blog (http://bvansick.blogspot.com/). He has a brief review of the Five Ten Arrowhead as well as some pics of local choss piles in Arizona. I'm hoping he continues his blog and includes his true opinion on things. Bryan is a real character and his blog could easily become the standard. For those of you who know Bryan you know exactly what he is capable of if he lets himself go free. Lets all hope.
I also received an email from friend Brian Capps that included a link to video from the guys I had bouldered with in China. It shows the quality of rock there hopefully encourages some of you to go over there. Motivated by the video and memories I dug up some other videos from Rocker the father of bouldering in China. The first link is the one Mr. Capps had sent me while the second is on Rockers list from vimeo. I would encourage you to watch as many of Rockers videos as possible. Enjoy!
Rocker video of Qingdao Bouldering 1
Rocker video of Qingdao Bouldering 2

Spring of course brings heavy wind here in Wyoming and many of those days have been spent driving back roads in search of good rock. Because of my job at the Wyoming Geological Survey new rock is being found on an almost daily basis. I keep a spread sheet open on my work desktop to add possible climbing areas as I do research for my actual job. A quick input of Lat/Lon and rock type is all that is needed and each weekend a bit of gas to drive and take a look.
Marla and I went out last weekend along a couple hundred miles of dirt in search of some possible sport crags. We found many good crags but access to public land was blocked by private ranches and huge no trespassing signs on all the walls, but one. The one that has public access is fantastic and will include full rope length pitches on very good limestone. Much of the rock is steep and very clean. Laramie can finally have a real sport crag!


For scale the dark steep wall on the right side would be 12 bolts or more in length to the anchors.

January Sun, February Deep Freeze

2011-02-01T19:14:00.001-07:00

This morning was in great contrast of just a few days ago. Waking this morning to -30 F was not the start I was hoping for in February. The high today was a -9 F and little difference could be felt from the morning cold to the afternoon cold. Just two days ago the weather was 50 F and sunny. That was back in January when we actually bouldered outside on warm rock.
Back on Saturday the hope was for a day of good bouldering on good, warm, sunny rock that was long overdue. All hope was met with fulfillment and a day was made that was so warm I heard a local suggest that spring thaw was starting. Suggesting that spring thaw had begun was true hope or maybe despair. Sunday night the temperatures started to fall. The bottom fell out this early morning and now memories of sun warmed rock keep me going till the next "spring thaw".
Anyway, Saturday morning, eight in the morning (the usual time) Guili Zavaschi, our newest crew member Dylan Stowers and myself loaded the jeep without needing gloves and drove to the local boulders of Gneiss and Granite that we have been developing for a few seasons now. If the description of Gneiss and Granite sounds a bit vague it is because we have all been sworn to secrecy by the areas daddy. This was our first dead of winter trip the particular boulders we visited and it was amazing. Not even climbing that much, but enjoying the sun was what really sank the experience into the body. Staying close to the road we cleaned and tried a few new lines only completing the warm up, now called A Wife For Guili V1.

A Wife For Guili turned out to be a rare classic in terms of a complete line. Though easy, it is tall and proud with a perfect landing. The crux is a high step rock up on a sloping dimple foot to an insecure slimper. Even after a few laps the foot never really felt completely secure. We all smiled huge smiles with the joy of moving on real stone with real earth below our feet.


Guili Zavaschi on the perfect top moves of A Wife For Guili V1., Somewhere, Wyoming.

After warming up on the new problem we spent a good while figuring out the moves on a short power problem that Guili had found and cleaned. Much effort went into figuring a usable sequence. Then, on the redpoint go from the start, the key foot broke and on further inspection the remaining foot completely snapped off. Another project was born. Dylan too cleaned a nice line, but cooler shade chased us away and into the sun of an area classic. The classic is Bryan Vansickle's Cowboys And Indians V6. Bryan rated the problem V6 and it goes along with his other V5 to V7 problems that rarely get repeated. The problem is a short roof that contains very little in the way of holds. The crux really is the problem. A dynamic stab at a mail slot crimp that is very hard to hit on point is the opening move and the crux. Of course the final moves are not easy and one can fall from from the top moves and people often do after they think it's over. None of us stuck the crux move of the problem, but came very frustratingly close several times. I figured out a lower start to the problem from a pour sloping rail and better feet, but the crux of the original problem kept me from any progress. Guili, Dylan and I thought V7/8 would be a better fit for the grade. I know Bryan is reading this thinking that we are a bunch of sissy imitations of boulderers, but he knows the truth.


Dylan Stowers setting up for the stab at the mail slot crimp on Cowboys And Indians V6 (V7/8)

As we worked the above problem the local rancher and his wife drove by on four wheelers, herding cattle, and stopped to talk. Wyoming locals are for the most part incredibly nice people and the two we met were no exception. After explaining to them what we were doing (not hunting from mattresses) the rancher suggested a few other locations. He suggested rock that is tucked away on his private property. He also invited us to climb at those locations when we want to. The new potential is massive. Only below zero temperatures, massive snow storms and the rest of Wyoming winter can stop us now. We are very thankful of his offer!

Cows of good fortune

Guili has been adjusting to life in America after being here for a couple of years now. He is from Brazil and for the most part is very American. When the sun comes out however, it's hard for him to hide the South American side.

Guili looking like he's on a trip to the money fields of Bolivia. In this case the fields are of boulders and he happens to have a monopoly on them

So Far, 2011

2011-01-09T14:15:00.000-07:00

Time is marching forward. It's hard to believe the 9th day of 2011 is here and rolling by. It has been a long while since I have posted anything. The truth is there hasn't been anything to post. The icy grip of winter tightens each week and the boulders go deeper into the snow. For a while there was hope between storms that a day of sun would bring a day of bouldering on real rock. Not so... Each storm is colder and only a fool would attempt to go out in this winter wonderland called Wyoming. Sure, in lander they climb all year on real rock, but here at 7200 feet above sea level the cold is deep.
We were fools on a couple of occasions around the New Year of course. The New Year itself was celebrated with Pabst Blue Ribbon and too much Champagne. A painful combo even in small amounts. Just prior to celebrating a few of us went into the mountains for a sledding session. The snow was too deep to drive to the taller hills, but we made due with a short steep hill and a bruiser (kicker as the snow folk call them) over havoc and fangs made of severely wind packed snow blocks. Snow blocks? They are hard enough from the Wyoming wind that I dented the disk with one right on the ass and everyone flinched on landing. The day was complete with dogs run over, people run over and people getting attacked by dogs after getting run over.

Construction of the havoc

The Set Up

The Take Down

Only Bryan was Man (fool) enough to Superman it.

Nothing needs to be said here.

Outside of a few days over winter break I've worked a lot to save money and I spend a lot of time in the gym. I realized that this is the fourth winter I have owned and run Laramie's little training gym The Source Bouldering Gym. I spent a good amount of time of the winter break resetting walls and pouring hundreds of new holds. I had a few Christmas orders from previous customers of the Source Gym who had liked the holds and apparently wanted to feel pain again. Maybe to feel alive, maybe to focus on something other than winter. Anyway the gym, never has it been mentioned in this blog, so here it is.
Years ago when Josh Helke, owner of Organic Bouldering Mats lived in town, Josh, his wife Liz, maybe a random guest or two and I would train in his garage. He had a small 50 degree overhanging wall that was covered in poor to bad holds. I got really strong on that wall, going from a V7 boulderer to a V10 boulderer in a winter. Josh had to change rental houses and the winter of 2006 had no training wall except the University of Wyoming's climbing wall which is near vertical.
2007 was the birth of an idea and I tried to organize a co-op wall in Laramie. Everyone was in on the idea and stoked, but no one would commit to the paper work or take responsibility for anything. Laramie is an old school climbing community full of bitterness, drinkers, disorganization and amazing friendships and motivation all wrapped into a few dozen individuals. I filed paper work for an LLC and opened the damn thing myself. I found an abandoned room on the fifth floor of one of Laramie's oldest buildings (1924). Being on the fifth floor we were able to pull three levels of ceilings out and get a 12 foot tall room. All the wood was free and recycled from an old gym that ran out of money. I intercepted the wood on it's way to the dump! As an LLC I pour our own holds (I do sell a few) as well as purchase holds from Pusher, Revolution, Metolius, Nicros and all the rest. Our in house custom pours are still the preferred method of torture! In total we have many hundreds of holds. The gym is a training gym to perfection, inspired by the legendary school room in Sheffield, England. A 50 degree overhang, a 35 degree overhang, a 15 degree, all covered in terrible holds and a campus board/hang board area can make you hurt wherever you need it.
I've never made money on the gym. The gym barely makes it in this small community, but we pay the rent and get stronger every year. It has been really good to see the climbers who use the gym become V10 and stronger climbers in a season or two. For sure, the standard in the area has gone up because of the gym. Every time I mention moving the gym to my garage so I don't have to fuss with the money and trying maintain the place a few individuals get together, pay for membership and keep it going. Summer is the crux, but we keep keeping on. I have to thank all the members who keep it going and all the future members who will keep it going!
I have to especially thank the people who helped build the gym Bryan Vansickle, Ethan McMahan, Bevan Frost, Josh Helke, Mike Haftner, Austin Jenson and Caleb Richter. Josh Helke's hundreds of holds kept the gym going until we could buy and our our own. Thanks! Bevan, Ethan and Bryan wallowed in filth, three feet of old insulation that filled the ceilings we pulled out. The struggle was rewarded with lifetime memberships.

The 35 getting reset with new Source Gym custom slopers, last days of 2010.

The 50 degree and outside, downtown Laramie at -20 F, last days of 2010

Bryan Vansickle building a masterpiece or shit show depending on your view.

Pouring holds has been something that I have done since 2005. I was not happy with the hold industry after Pusher went under and had to shape my own holds. I like a simple, training oriented hold like the old Pusher and S7 holds. Too many holds are shaped to look cool and they actually climb like hell. "Form follows function" is my only guide for shaping and pouring. I sold holds for a while, but an allergic reaction to some chemical in the process allows me to only pour on a limited basis now.


New Source Holds ready for the gym. These are small to medium in size.


Large to Extra Large hollow back slopers and pinches to match on and flail. I make very flexible molds that can be tweaked to make many different shapes out of a single mold. This is key for the home gym hold maker. The hollow back saves a huge amount of plastic too.

Source Gym Crimps. These are the legendary custom crimps I shaped for the 50 degree overhang. They brought many people to the V10 grade. I pour many of these each time I pour. The small size uses up extra Urethane that would normally be wasted. Also, key to a home gym hold making operation is using every drop of Urethane.

Memories

2010-12-01T08:04:00.002-07:00

Maybe it is Winter with all the snow and wind and cold, but I tend to wander into memories this time of the year. Thinking of days past when I was out in the sun and real stone, a couple of friends cleaning and climbing some choss pile in middle of nowhere and nothing to do at work, because I skipped my job again. Sometimes not even calling in sick, just not showing up and climbing 10 hours a day was the life.
Among the memories of boulders from this past year, my China trip comes up often. Almost on automatic default replay setting in my mind, it flashes often in the neurons. A picture of the boulders on my work desktop helps spark it. Just a huge mountain of many, many boulders going on forever and the few I saw as I walked through that picture last May, keep me thinking of another trip there. Then, this morning almost as a thought come to life, Rocker the father of Qingdao bouldering and the first true boulderer in China put a video on Vimeo. It is a video of the little mountain Jinlingshan in the city of Qingdao. Almost a city park of sort, but a little less defined than a city park here in the States, Jinlingshan is where it all began. After work, the few Qingdao climbers who are truly devoted meet on the mountain in the city and practice the art of bouldering. It is where I was first introduced in China and where I spent many days walking and bouldering above the city. It was only a couple blocks from my little apartment and the same for Rocker. In the third or fourth to last boulder problem, when you can look down a long street and see tall buildings in the smog, that is my old street. Great memories and great people!

One of my favorite pics from China. Bamboo looking for boulders in another city park in Qingdao.

In addition to the China neuron flood, Bryan Vansickle past through Laramie over the Thanksgiving break and gave a little slide show. It included days past in Wyoming and some newer things from Flagstaff where he's been dispatching hard roof problems quickly. A little memory of Bryan is below for all to see.

The weather is shaping up, at least it is supposed to. Hopefully this weekend will make some new memories.

Things That Have Happened

2010-11-10T08:03:00.000-07:00

It is time...
A few days ago "the man" took an hour from the light of my day. The time changed and though it may have helped the working men and women of America in some way, it killed after work bouldering sessions. Bouldering in the evening light of Autumn is over. Then, yesterday morning the snow started. It continued on with inches piling up and a bad weather outlook for the week ahead. Weekend sessions will be limited now. Many of my bouldering areas and projects are under the snow and will be until spring.
It is time to work, save money, and train on the steep walls of my little bouldering gym.
It is also time to look back on the past few weeks of Autumn and the many, many boulders of that time period. So many boulders that updating this post has been impossible. Every free second has been devoted to making the most of maybe the longest fall season we have ever had here in Wyoming. The Vedauwoo Project Project of previous posts was put in the back seat, so far back, it is maybe even in the trunk. As you will see here, the reasons for the delay on the Project Project are many and all worthy. Others have been busy in Wyoming over the past month of amazing weather as well.

In recent news Chris Marley of Lander, Wyoming finished a very long standing project on the granite boulders in Sinks Canyon. It is a beautiful granite roof that I found and cleaned many years ago, back in the day 2005. I only had the pleasure of working the line a few times, but had all the beta figured out after two sessions except an early crux move. Chris figured a way to do the move and we now have Copacetic Cowboy (V12?). It is one of Wyoming's finest boulder problems and it was an honor to watch Chris come so very close to sending it just over a week ago on my last visit to Lander. It was clear that he would do the line the next time he touched it. There will be a video of the send coming soon. Chris has added several hard lines in the Lander area this season and is truly devoted to beautiful lines and good bouldering. There is a video of another hard line he has done in the Lander area War Tactics V11/12

Myself working on what is now Copacetic Cowboy (V12?) back in 2008 when the line was a project. Sinks Canyon, Wyoming.

In the Laramie area I have spent a lot of time looking for and climbing new boulders. Some in completely new areas and some in already discovered areas. Having a month long delay in getting started with my new job as a geologist helped a lot during the month of September. Some very good lines have gone up, but the best have been as good if not the best of my bouldering life. Some locations are secret at this time as requested by the daddy of the areas (he's probably already going to give me the silent treatment for this much info), while others are places I've posted about before in the Saratoga Valley. Two favorites are So Sexy So Soon V8, a 21 move roof problem and Time Bomb V8, a 27 move roof problem. Both could be done with an additional 7 moves from a logical low start in the same cave.

Bryan Vansickle on stacked pads, cleaning the top out to So Sexy So Soon V8. The line goes from the bottom right of the photo to where Bryan is cleaning the top. Somewhere, Wyoming.

Another very good line is a problem I put up in an older area that is known for it's perfect Gneiss boulders and amazing hard lines. Crazy In The Ocean V10 is a line that I am proud to have opened. It is one of the original lines that we spotted in the area on some of the best rock I've yet climbed on. It is one of the finest V10s I have put up in Wyoming!

Bryan Vansickle on the crux move of Crazy In The Ocean V10. The move is a deep lock off on a small left crimp. Your right goes to a poor sloper edge in a slot, then requiring a four move shuffle on the sloper to set up for a toss to the lip of the problem. The problem climbs 12 moves out a steep wall of perfect gneiss.

Another photo of Bryan Vansickle on Crazy In The Ocean V10. This time setting up for the lower and slightly easier crux to perfect crimps.

Beyond the long roof lines and hard, steep gneiss walls many moderate and easy problems have been opened too. We always strive to warm up on a new boulder each day we climb to better develop an area as we go. Some of the better lines that have come out of warm up sessions have been; The Widow And The Flies V4 which is a long roof problem on jugs and big sloper jugs. A Cow Calls Out V1 a tall just past vertical wall of in cut finger buckets, Long Ear V6 a shorter, core tension dependent prow, And A Cold Wind Blows V3 a high ball face that starts just past vertical and rolls over in a huge belly on good, but widely spaced holds. The line climbs over an aspen grove leaving your spotter to watch the top out unfold.

Bryan Vansickle spotted by Brian Capps on Long Ear V6. A Cow Calls Out V1 climbs the tall face in the center of the boulder.

Guili Zavaschi on The Widow And The Flies V4

Brian Capps visited for a couple of days and did the first ascent of a very unique and beautiful line on a gently overhanging face he named When Black Mambas Attack V9. It is a full problem from a sit start on a good jug to small crimps and big dynamic move to a poor pinch. It is a real gem in an area of gems.

Brian Capps on the First Ascent of When Black Mambas Attack V9, bump slapping the sloper rail beyond the crux pinch.

South of Laramie, over the past two summers a small group of us from Laramie have poached some Colorado boulders and have managed to develop a beautiful alpine bouldering area. Over the past while the boulders there have also taken up a great deal of my time and energy. I put in two of my best problems of the season in our little alpine bouldering area. The Natural Order V8, power endurance problem on many sloping holds out a bulge and You Snooze You Loose V7 a tall power endurance line out of a huge belly of a boulder. Many good harder lines were found as well and projected. Now however the snow is many feet deep and the projects left there will have to wait.

Mike Molony setting up for the crux on The Natural Order V8, while Guili Zavaschi gives his usual spot.

Guili Zavaschi 7 moves into You Snooze You Loose V7 with 9 moves to go!

Mike Molony on the second ascent of You Snooze You Loose V7, showing the scale of things. luckily the ground comes up behind the belly of the boulder and the top is only moderately a high ball.

Of course Needle Peak has had some good new lines put up, but those have been on other posts. Many, many other lines were done in several areas beyond what is posted here, but I'll save those for later. Really trying to focus on harder lines, I've managed to send fewer new problems than usual for this time of the year. Yet, I am very satisfied with the season. It seams that the trend was not just my own. Every day going out bouldering with different people, they insisted on trying harder lines. Really going for a full body beat down has been the name of the game and it feels great. I'm really hoping for a couple of good days yet to finish some things. So very close to 3 hard projects where all the moves have been done, but linking the beasts is a few good weather days away. Hope your end of the seasons projects come together as well!

The Tripple X Roof is a beauty that I found a month or so back and have spent four full sessions on. The right to left line through the roof is 16 moves long and should go around hard V12. I've done all the moves, but have yet to find the raw power endurance needed to send.

My dog Amiee spent a day with Bryan Vansickle and I working the Triple X Roof. She got pissed with our weak efforts and started shit. Her lesson: try harder like a wild animal, seamed to work. We figured all the moves out shortly after the dog attack.

Bryan Vansickle putting the wild animal lesson to work, getting ready for another hernia inducing pull down in the Triple X. A lesson I will keep through the cool temps this winter season.

Needle Peak Bouldering a Salvaged Day

2010-10-13T07:37:00.001-06:00

This past Sunday was one of big plans. Boulders of perfect quality and amazing proportion were going to be climbed in the finest style and at hard grades. That was the plan anyway until rain, rain, and more rain started to fall the night before. All night it rained and then in the morning light it poured. We canceled and sulked, sometimes looking at the local radar with hope. Hours past and morning moved onward and finally we decided to go look at rock even if we couldn't climb it. The thinnest clouds were westward over the Snowy Range in the Saratoga Valley. Needle Peak is somehow in a bubble of good weather most of the time and it was again, for the most part, on this day.
I can't even count the number of times we have climbed at Needle Peak with all other local rock completely blown out for the day in rain and torment. It is somehow a place like that, a shelter from the storm.

Bryan, Guili, Kyle and I went over to Needle Peak and managed to add eight new problems to the already large number of problems we and a few others have put there. We spent the day on the north end of the peak which is becoming the more concentrated zone of boulders and only tried one established problem the entire day. It had been a while since we had been at Needle Peak and it was refreshing to return and add problems. For several seasons myself and a few others (Bryan, Ethan, and Guili) had almost lived at the peak developing its hundreds of problems. It is now an entire mountain of boulders ready for visitors and new motivation. I only ask that you respect the place and keep it wild and beautiful. It is a sacred place for a few of us and should be kept that way. It should be enjoyed by others too!

Guili warming up on Kids These Days V2 immediately after it's First Ascent.

Bryan topping out the second ascent of The Road V2/3. The problem starts deep in a pit below the spotters foot and climbs forever out of the pit. The landing after the first few moves is poor with the danger of a long fall off the ledge to the right. A no fall problem of great quality.

Kyle Beitz entering the no fall zone of The Road V2/3. The pit below is a steep gully with pads wedged in to make a catchers mitt and the ledge gives way to a slab into the trees below.

Guili on the second ascent of Mr. Ed V6 a minute after Bryan put it up.

After putting up the new problems on the north end of Needle Peak we moved southward to established problems. Guili wanted to try Little Big Hand V7/8 and I knew of a good possible line to put up in the same area. The send of the day was the good possible line, Guili's FA of the massive Femea V5 (?). I did not get a picture of the line because of the building darkness, but it is a new classic. The problem is a true endurance line on steep rock all the way to the end. It starts in the depths of a cave on the classic and long TSSST V4. Guili climbed the first half of TSSST, then moved right to buckets, onward and upward along the roof for eleven moves and into the top of another steep and long problem Royal Oats V5/6. The entire line is around 24 moves of overhanging terrain and required all of our pads (4 regular pads, 3 half pads, and 2 medium pads)! It was a great conclusion to a salvaged day.

Guili trying Little Big Hand V7/8 at Needle Peak, Wyoming. It is a short little core tension fest!

Bennett Peak Bouldering and A Project Project Update

2010-09-23T09:00:00.000-06:00

Rain today with memories of the past week keeping me motivated. I need today as a rest day anyway, so let it rain.One of the areas I'm thinking about is Bennett Peak. With so many good areas around Laramie holding perfect projects, Bennett Peak brings up a blank. It is a great place to boulder and needs some attention again.

Noon Rocks, Bennett Peak, Wyoming. Noon Rocks is one of many zones in the Bennett Peak area. It is defined by steep, overhanging stone that has been wind carved and covered in patina!

Bennett peak Wyoming is a large bouldering area on the edge of the Saratoga Valley. Many years ago it was a place where I bouldered often, but have been going elsewhere lately. It sees little traffic if any in terms of bouldering these days, but has been on a few lists as of late. One list in particular is that of Mike Molony who is leaving Laramie very soon. Mike has been on a crazed rampage of bouldering trying to get the last problems and areas in before his departure. Two problems, Red, White and Rock V6/7 and The Zero Point V8 have been on his list of to do problems in the area for some time now. With weather looking good we headed out to Bennett Peak with a pile of pads.

Mike Molony sending Red, White and Rock V6/7, Bennett Peak, Wyoming.

Mike made quick work of Red, White and Rock after warming up just left of it on Rusty Wire. Rusty Wire is a Bryan Vansickle problem that has a variety of grips for several different possible lines of ascent. It was originally graded V1, but felt a bit harder this trip. Some variations are probably in the V4/5 range. No matter the grade, the rock is steep and really solid. Mike suggested V6/7 for Red, White and Rock verifying my original grade for the problem. Next up was The Zero Point V8 a hard sloper line I put up just prior to my China trip this spring. It was something I had wondered about in terms of the grade and if I had put it up the hard way as I often do. A better way or sequence is often found and I was hoping Mike would find it. The crux of The Zero Point is really the starting move with some power endurance to finish. The problem is a classic and Mike was excited to give it a go. He knew ahead of time that the entire problem revolves around a single move, "the move". "The move" gave mike the fits despite a solid effort. He was close enough to it that I know he'll rock it next trip. He was very close to finding his zero point. It took me a while, but I was able to repeat "the move" and feel the grade is solid for the problem. It is the most unique problem I have done so far because of the singularly simple and somehow very complex move. A true gem!

Mike Molony walking the rest of The Zero Point above "the move". The problem is fantastic slopers up a steep wall with a tall finish.

We also tried the Last Dirty Hole Project which turned out to be very painful in the warm temperatures of the day. It is a project that has taken a large step down on my to do list. It is right there with the Bob 69 Project in Vedauwoo in terms of difficulty and pain. One of those things that you would never be proud of sending, maybe even keep it a secret so people won't judge you for doing it. Mike thought is sucked hard! However, in the Bennett Peak area in general there are many really good things to boulder. The overall potential is huge and what has already been done over the years is very worthwhile for any boulderer. CAUTION: PLEASE NOTE: The cave containing the classic roof problem Outbreak V6 is no longer safe to boulder in. A huge flake of death is coming out of the roof (hundreds of deadly pounds). I was able to wiggle it with an old rotten, gray stick. You should avoid it like the plague until it comes out.

The Project Project Update

The Project Project is slowly but surely getting done. I have been picking away it slowly and hopefully others have too. I spent three more days in the Vedauwoo area trying to get things done. It has been hard to focus at times at Vedauwoo, because of the warmer than good temps and again, better rock elsewhere. I went to Wolverineland at Mount Evans a few times on the invite from Brian Capps and also went to several other good bouldering areas out of Laramie. Despite those other trips, I have made progress on The Project Project.

Specifically I have been in the Lower Blair area again. Parking at the Blair Picnic Grounds (Home of the Picnic Monster Project) I have been walking the short distance to the south end of Adam's Ribs. There are a couple of old project there, but the best is the Very Old Tree Project. It is in the roof of the largest boulder, just a hundred yards from the Picnic Grounds, on the trail into Lower Blair. I put up two good warmups along the trail (actually on the trail) and have done all the moves in the roof together, except the first. The roof is V10/11 as it stands now, but the first move should be done, as it is the obvious start to the line. A cold day is needed to hold the small, sharp holds in the roof and finish the line. I can say that now is the time to visit Vedauwoo. The aspen are going off in a show of color and it is a beautiful fall up there. If you have never been to Vedauwoo you should go now!

The two new problems along the Lower Blair Trail. These are a hundred yards up the trail from where you park in Blair Picnic Ground. The left problem, above the bouldering mat is Hooky V5 and the right problem on the big rail is Aspen Glow V1. The Very Old Tree Project is on the back of the same boulder.

The Very Old Tree Project. It starts in the depth of the roof on the big flake from a left, low crimp undercling and a low right triangle hold. Move right to the sloping edge near the left, top of the gray pad in the picture. From there it is V10 or V11 to the top.

Good Bouldering Weather and The Project Project Update

2010-09-02T09:02:00.001-06:00

Fall weather is finally here! You can see the change in the grasses and trees. Yellows, reds and browns slowly creeps into the foliage of Wyoming bouldering areas. It is a beautiful site, but you can feel it too. Monday morning of this week marked the beginning of cold wind and dry finger tips. It is such an amazing time of year to go out in a wool hat, and feel the chill of the cold stone. Just a single dip in the chalk lasts for an entire problem and can last for a even a few. It is sending time and my favorite time of the year!
We had several false cool downs this late summer, marked by hot spells and damp, soft tips afterward. This one is real however you can see it in the sky. The Geese got the hell out a week or two ago. That always suggests the descent of the cold from the north has begun. The sun going down looks different in the fall too. The sky gets bigger than it's already huge Wyoming self. Just the other day while hiking out of a little bouldering area the sky said "autumn" as loud as it could. The excitement is huge. There are so many problems to do now in the cool air.

The Project Project

Things started off a bit frustrating for the project project. The weather was really warm and made for some poor sessions. At Vedauwoo, the heat, even a little, is recipe for not climbing anything. We had one good session and then two hot sessions. I was ready to scrap the whole thing after the last tip splitting, sun baked, humid, warm as hell session on a crimpy line. Then the autumn cool rolled in and the project project makes perfect sense.

So, our first stop was whatever is closest to a road. We decided with such a huge list of things to do we would start with whatever is closest and work our way from there to the farthest things. We ended up in Blair at the Picnic Monster Project. A beautiful and huge line. One of the best single lines I've seen in Vedauwoo! Guili was the only one with the balls to give it good solid goes up high, the rest of us backed off after a go or two. The crux is the final move to the lip of the boulder and it is going to be fantastic. We had four guys, three regular Organic Pads, a large Organic Pad, two small half pads, and we felt like at least another large pad was needed to make the landing possible. To find the Picnic Monster Project drive to the Blair picnic grounds (a pay area) which is also home to the great crack problem University of Mars. From the first pull out once you are in the picnic grounds pay area, walk directly behind the picnic tables and outhouse building. The wall is a hundred feet behind the parking.

Mike Molony getting set for the head wall of the Picnic Monster Project. The problem starts far down and left, under the boulder, left of Bryan in the green shirt.

Guili high marking the Picnic Monster Project with a third of the line yet to be touched. It starts all the way down at the bottom of the rails. Zoom in to see the chalk.

There is a good warm up to the right of the project on the same wall. Bryan named it The Lonely Raspberry V4. It starts on undercling sidepulls.

Two poor sessions elsewhere in Vedauwoo led to hope of cooler temperatures and a trip back to the Blair area. Several projects on the project project list are located in the Blair area and again, I started closer to the road. I went solo as everyone was either out of town or busy. I first went to the small formation south of Little Blair which is south of all the lower Blair stuff, like Blair I, Blair II, etc... On the north side of the small formation described is an a-frame cave and in that cave are several good lines including two from the project project. I climbed a good warm up I called Union Made V2/3 and cleaned the two projects. One went with a bit of hard squeezing The Cat House Squeeze V8, the other is V14ish and will have to wait.

Union Made V2/3 sit starts the perfect arete and goes all the way up. The V14ish thing shares the same start but moves right through the corridor to a large sloper, then around the corner and into the depths of the cave. The pads are protecting the landing of The Cat House Squeeze V8.

The Cat House Squeeze V8 sit starts on a right crimp that is very small, but around the corner and a left sloper that can be seen with the chalk on it. Go to the solid lip then move right into the corridor to finish up good features. It is basically a move of V8 and then a few moves to keep you focused.

After finishing up the Cat House area I walked towards the aspen grove between Little Blair and Blair 0. On the very edge of the aspen grove, to the west of Little Blair a few boulders sit with some potential. There are two roof lines that held my interest for some time there. The easiest way to get to the small area is to walk the trail under Blair 0 and cut south from Blair 0 in the sage brush field. You will have pine and a rocky, broken ridge to your right (west) and the aspen grove to your left (east). at the southern edge of the sage brush field cut into the first boulders on the edge of the aspen grove, directly west of Little Blair.

I managed to finish one of the roof line quickly and named it Choo Choo Peeker V8/9. It starts in the far back right of the roof, climbs left through the longest length of the roof on underclings and edges, then cuts along the lip of the roof on slimper edges to a solid mantle. The problem is uniquely Vedauwoo, yet is completely unique to anything in Vedauwoo. Maybe a biased view, but it is a classic line at an attainable grade. It should prove to be a regular problem on the Vedauwoo bouldering circuit. It may be easier for shorter climbers?

The boulder to look for on the edge of the aspen grove. Start Choo Choo Peeker V8/9 in the back right depth of the roof on an undercling crack. Move left a move to the horizontal (black stain) and reach behind your head right to an undercling. work from there to the lip of the boulder and change direction towards the mantle.

Another view of the Choo Choo Peeker Boulder. The problem starts on the far right of the roof, behind the brightly lit tree trunk and follows the roof all the way left to the edge of the blue pad. Then, follows the rail out to the mantle along the vertical crack above the right edge of the blue pad. An unnamed V1 or V2 starts on the south face of the boulder (don't grab the flake, it will break).

One other project went in the newer area The Jungle. A previous post to this showed a water washed wall with vertical streaks on it. Devlin Junker finished the streaked wall. Rolling The Dice V8/9. Even with three of the projects checked off the list, there are now 92 to do!

The Project Project

2010-08-24T07:47:00.000-06:00

Introduction:
A few days back, lounging in a granite grotto, Guili says to me "Why don't we start finishing some projects here, there must be a few to try?". He meant "here" as the greater Vedauwoo area and "a few", after making the list over a couple of days of brain storm, as at least 76 problems! I only listed problems that I have tried more than a couple of goes and think are high enough quality to try again. Without a doubt the list is as large as it is because of a lack of focus in the Vedauwoo area. Vedauwoo is good for hard bouldering when other, better quality rock areas are also good. We tend to go there, as in not Vedauwoo. I only finish a few hardish lines a year in Vedauwoo now, but the potential for far more is evident. For several years as I focused with a few others on other bouldering areas I just assumed that things would get done back at "the voo". I even looked forward to trying things that had a name and number, maybe even clean holds. Well hope was only hope and we'll have to do it ourselves now.
So, as Guili suggested we should go out and finish some projects. This is the birth of The Project Project. To climb as many undone project in the greater Vedauwoo area as possible before hell breaks loose in a freezing gale. All are invited! You will need only a brush, motivation, and some time. Here are a few pics of the possibilities, oh the possibilities! Stay tuned for updates on The Project Project.

The Poison Project

The 40 Project

The Weeping Wall Project

The 1st Wall Project

An Evening At Vedauwoo

2010-08-14T09:06:00.000-06:00

Last evening was the first of the season for me in terms of getting into the rhythm of fall. Working during the day while anticipating the few hours of evening for some bouldering is a new experience at this time of the year. It is a sudden transition from long summer days and bouldering all day, almost every day, to quick sessions on more local stone. For me, the local stone is Vedauwoo which I actually spend little time on these days. I save the sharp holds of the Sherman Granite for cool fall temps and a few winter sessions. I also try to do new problems, preferably in new areas when I climb at Vedauwoo.
Several years ago I found the boulders of last nights visit, but had not been back until a few days ago with Mike Molony. The boulders were of a good quality for Vedauwoo and we vowed to return soon. With Devlin and Ana Junker, Guili, Mike and myself we cleaned and climbed some new lines and tried what are now even more projects for Vedauwoo. The area is called The Jungle as it is very over grown with foliage along a drainage, more so than anywhere I've seen in the area. The rock is varied, as Vedauwoo rock always is, from very sharp junk to very clean, water washed features. It is the later that make the area worth while.

Devlin warming up on Welcome to The Jungle V4ish. Jungle Ball is the V1 that starts on the same low cobble his foot is on, but goes straight up.

Mike trying what would become Whatever Feels Natural V5ish. This problem despite being a very good looking feature turned out to be crumbly and sharp. It could clean up if you try it.

Guili on the FA of Whatever Feels Natural V5.

Guili trying what is now a project in The Jungle. This is one of several very nice, clean lines on water washed holds in The Jungle and is a good reason to warm up on choss.

As my transition to the fall schedule continues I will post more pictures and info for this area. There are a few lines that are not pictured here, but hold my interest. It would be good to have a few harder problems completed before calling this a true area for Vedauwoo. All to often a problem or two claim to be an area and at Vedauwoo that can be stretch, especially considering rock quality. Stay tuned!

Summer Heat

2010-08-09T09:29:00.000-06:00

There are always a few weeks in the middle of summer where fighting through the "summer slows" is the crux. I always head for the high country during that time, either in northwest Wyoming or more recently in the northern Colorado/Wyoming border areas.Over the past few weeks I was able to escape to both regions and get some new problems put up. I traveled with Bryan Vansickle and my wife Marla to Lander and the Wind River Mountains and put up several new problems in two new areas there despite a good bit of rain. The Source, an area Dave Nash and I discovered for bouldering many years ago has been seeing a lot of traffic and new problems lately. It took almost 6 years, but people are finally getting out to the excellent granite there and finding/climbing really good problems. The major factor being the Lloyd family moving to Lander and having the motivation to boulder. I would highly recommend looking at David Lloyd's blog (linked on my blog) for up to date details and many more pictures of new problems at The Source. The areas that Bryan, Marla, and I visited for two days are hidden areas in The Source that I have kept as reserves. I had heard roomers that I had missed some classic problems in already developed areas in The Source. The Source portion of this post is a bit of friendly competition. Maybe there are some classic areas out there, not just a few fill in problems?

Bryan Vansickle on the second ascent of CMT at The Source, Wyoming. The approaching storm soaked us a few minutes after the shot was taken and we didn't get any more problems in this area.

Bryan Vansickle on Pale Green Straw V6, The Source, Wyoming.

Bryan Vansickle trying a sloper project after dark at The Source, Wyoming. Oh No, Slick Titty V2 is a good warm up that starts on the left of the picture and climbs a highball slab to finish.

We also made a two day trip from Lander to Dubois, Wyoming to visit some of the fantastic boulders I discovered there years ago. We spent both days around 10,000 feet at Pilot Knob and were very disappointed by poor temps. The boulder field heated into the 80's and made for lethargic outings. Then, waiting for good evening temps we were rained out every day. It was too bad, as we were very motivated to put up some harder lines there. Maybe in the fall if it doesn't snow early.

Bryan Vansickle on a V5 I can't remember the name of, Pilot Knob, Wyoming.

Bryan singing songs in the rain after we were rained out again from evening boulders and good sending temps.

During some of the hotter or rainy days we drove back roads and looked for new rock. We looked for rock in the Laramie area hoping to find additional summer bouldering. I've known about several good summer bouldering areas on the Wyoming/Colorado border for a few years now, but have not given any directions or specifics because of previous chalk being found in some areas. Those areas are obviously secret and will be kept that way since they are not completely my finds. I only mention it here to encourage people to get out and find new rock. There is a lot of rock in the Rocky Mountain Region! Exploring for new rock is something I like to do as much as bouldering and it is equally rewarding. Some possible finds for the exploring boulderer:

China Bouldering 3/3

2010-08-05T15:27:00.000-06:00

This is the final post about bouldering in China. It will be pictures with few words. I hope that the three post regarding the bouldering around Qingdao, China were enough to spark some interest out there for people to get out of their comfort zones and experience the world. That being said, bouldering is one of the finest reasons for doing so. China is a place of maximum potential and climbing there is a new born baby. The bouldering is brand new. Not just the boulder problems, but the entire idea is new. It is and was a fantastic and rare experience.

The locals in Qingdao are very happy to have new climbers visit. If you are interested in travel to Qingdao for the climbing please don't hesitate to ask about details, contacts, and additional info. I am happy to put you in contact with the locals and they would be happy to have you. Keep in mind that the Chinese climbers I spent five weeks with are not just climbers, but good friends.

The Boulder Fields of Laoshan

A closer look at the rock. Some was featured, some was not.

Despite Millions of Boulders there are other things in China to see.

China Bouldering 2/3

2010-07-22T12:53:00.000-06:00

Another long hiatus from getting back to posting...
Catching up from a five week trip is a long process and in the middle of summer makes it even harder. For some reason summer is always really busy. Anyway, back to the bouldering in China.

The first sessions in China were all local to the city with a small trip to Laoshan the big mountain of boulders. It took a bit of time to gain the trust of the guys who boulder in Qingdao. After all I was the first guy to travel there specifically for the bouldering on a long term trip. I was unsure of what to expect and the locals felt the same. Once we trusted each other and realized we share a common addiction it was all systems go. We started to go out to better and better bouldering and started finding new areas of world class granite. It was in the middle to end of the trip that I really got to see the true nature of the place. It was a relief to realize that the bouldering in Qingdao, China is as good as any famous granite in the world and in most cases completely unique.
I climbed on granite features that were different from anything I've seen before. There were granite tuffas, pockets, dog bowls, and huecos that were so numerous pinches between them made many good problems. Some of the granite was close to home in texture. Much like Vedauwoo it was chunky and rough to pull on. My first trip to Laoshan was filled with doubt because of the rough stuff, but later trips would reveal fine grain rock with perfect textures. I also witnessed granite that was so fine grain it felt like 400 grit sandpaper making amazing slopers and strange sand stone like features. Think the turtle shell slopers of font! Most rock however was small grained grey, brown, or even white granite that climbed like granite with the occasional Qingdao feature to help it have the unique feeling of a new rock type.

On the way into Erlongshan (Two Dragon Mountain) in Laoshan. This was the first day I went into Laoshan and found primarily chunky granite. There were hints of the good stuff that would keep me wondering about rock quality for days until we finally went out to it.

This is the view into the valley north of Erlongshan in Laoshan. It was my first taste of the good stuff! Really compact, medium grain granite with good features.

From day to day I was never sure of what might happen in terms of a bouldering trip. It might be a trip to the local stuff in the city of Qingdao. Maybe a two hour bouldering session. Or it could be an entire day of bouldering out of the city and in Laoshan. Each time I left my little apartment I prepared for an entire day out. It was a freeing experience to not make the plans and just wait for the phone call or text each morning. With an open mind I noticed new problems where I'm sure I would have missed them with a know itinerary or set of problems. It definitely changed my way of bouldering back home. My first session back in the states yeilded one of the classic problems at Needle Peak.

Even with a closed mind a person could find something to climb here. A beautiful and typical view of the climbing in Laoshan. With an open mind here the climbing is truly endless.

As I mentioned before, the rock of Laoshan goes from the higher peaks straight into the ocean. The rock is similar, but the weathering is different. The bouldering along the Yellow Sea is a lifetime experience to say the least. It was something I could do every day and never grow tired of it. It was refreshing to boulder sea side and very calming.

The area of Laoshan is generally regarded as the place where Taoism was born. Taoist theory suggests that wind strips a persons chi, or inner energy. Water renews that same energy in a cycle. Every day bouldering in Laoshan was a lesson of that. From breezy peaks we would follow the water down to the sea and feel calm again.

The boulderer Bamboo wandering the edge of the Yellow Sea for new rock. We found some incredible boulder problems here!

Boulders in Laoshan along the sea.

A sea of boulders we visited on my last day in China. One of the most incredible bouldering vistas I've seen anywhere.

Now closer looks at the rock and boulders. On my first trip to Laoshan the bouldering was similar to home and a bit chunky for my taste. It did however yeild prefect splitter cracks and wide crack roof problems were everywhere. I demonstrated wide crack technique to the climbers I was with as they had never seen or heard of it. We wasted a good afternoon stacking and inverting in a perfect splitter roof crack. The locals picked up the techniques really fast and loved the new style. It was a great honor to bring wide crack climbing to the group I bouldered with. To pass the art of wide crack climbing on from Vedauwoo and Bob Scarpelli to Qingdao and climbers in China was also a life experience. Laoshan had more wide crack possibility, both routes and boulders than anywhere I've seen by far!

Some of the first stacks in China! This was a perfect hand/fist stack roof.

I could never pronounce this womans name and won't try to spell it here, but she was a natural at wide crack climbing and if she sticks with it could be the very best! After a quick lesson on stacks, kick-throughs, how to say Bob Scarpelli, and offwidth climbing in general she absolutely walked this crack. This is probably China's first wide crack roof. Comparable to any hard problem in the states and it's just the beginning for China!

So, the bouldering was amazing as I keep saying and the entire experience was far reaching in experiences. It was a very full trip of giving and taking lessons on bouldering and life. I could write about it forever, but I think pictures might explain a bit better than my rambling on. Enjoy!

One of the many good boulders found in the river valley bottoms.

Tony, master of the open hand, working a project along the sea in Laoshan.

Again on the side of the sea, Tony putting up an FA with Bamboo spotting.

Micheal from the states boulders out a beautifully featured granite bloc along the sea.

China Bouldering 1/3

2010-07-07T09:42:00.000-06:00

Two weeks ago today I arrived in Denver, Colorado completely exhausted and with a changed mind from a five week bouldering trip in China. I left for the journey on May 18th and was completely unsure of what to expect. Obviously it was a trip to not only climb, but to experience a different way of life. A huge amount of research went into to the trip. Many months of e-mails to a group of local climbers in Qingdao, China and as many months of visa applications, transportation arrangements, sponsor arrangements, and most importantly verifications of the rock quality led to a departure date and eventual trip. And what a trip it was! One filled with three straight weeks of bouldering on rock that was better than expected and a two week tour of China focusing on the ancient history there. I was in culture shock both going to China and returning home to America.

Qingdao, China taken from Jinlingshan, looking at Fushan with my little apartment complex in the middle. This is all on the eastern side of Qingdao and only 40 minutes to the big mountains of Laoshan.

After two days of travel I arrived in Qingdao, China hoping that Rocker, the guy who invited me to China, would be there to pick me up at the airport. In my first exposure to the absolutely fantastic Chinese hospitality Rocker was there to pick me up and ready to introduce me into China. On the 40 minute drive into the city I realized a couple of things that I realized would influence the remainder of the entire trip in Qingdao. The locals spoke far less English than expected, including the discovery of me living in total immersion in the city. I also noticed a massive amount of rock on many hills and mountains all around the city. All of which had little to no developed bouldering on it, but massive potential. I was introduced to my landlord and had tea as the first foreign guest in the neighborhood. I went to the police station with the help of a translator to obtain my residents permit. And finally crashed into that strange sort of sleep that only comes when one has been way too tired for way too long.
A knock on my door after only two hours of sleep was all that woke me from what was surely going to be a 24 hour power sleep. It was Rocker and he said it was time to go climbing. This would become the usual schedule as the locals would get off work each day. I would spend the day in the city or in the local mountains looking for rock until a text or call would come in from "the guys" and we would arrange to meet and go bouldering (having an open source phone so that I could just drop in a China Mobile SIM card was the single most useful tool I had in China besides the Mandarin Phrase book I lived by). Slowly catching up on sleep and getting my energy levels back up with the new diet consumed the early days in China. As did learning Mandarin as fast as possible. I would learn from the guys I climbed with as well as by trying to figure stuff out in the city.

Some of the Qingdao Boulderers (all with English nicknames) from left to right: Tony, Bamboo, and Kangaroo (sitting). Somewhere up on Jinling Shan the smaller bouldering mountain inside the city.

As for the locals, they were some of the most genuine and most humble people I have ever met. As climbers they are completely in love with the sport and absolutely consumed by it. To see their level of dedication to the sport in the context of where they live and how they have to sacrifice to climb was very inspiring. Bouldering and making the excuse to do so in our country and society is hard at times, but it is excepted here, as it is in Europe. In China, bouldering is so new it is not even an idea on a societal level (climbing in general is rarely thought of, if at all). Bouldering is abstract at best. Qingdao, China is the bouldering center of the universe in China, the place to do it, and the crew there is maybe a dozen people. The core group of developers is even smaller. Literately almost all the bouldering in China is a few guys who make great personal sacrifices to go out and do something that is completely ridiculous in the societal perspective of their own country. I quickly realized how lucky I am to have the opportunity to do what I do. I also realized how true to themselves these guys really are. They live by their hearts!

Rocker (Wangzhen)

Bamboo

Tony

Snail

Victor

It was a relief to meet people and climbers who are so true to themselves and climb in a place that not yet suffers from all the self image hysteria and rude behavior of those who feel better than others. It was also a huge relief to end up in a place that has amazing amounts of really good rock, a huge number of boulders, and a crew that only wants to climb. The bouldering was truly massive! In all the places I've bouldered, by far the area in China around Qingdao has the most rock. Millions of boulders sit under hundreds of crags and tumble from multi thousand foot mountains down to a long rocky coast on the Yellow Sea.
The bouldering in the first weeks was good and got better as each trip took me to another location. I started the bouldering on two mountains inside the city of Qingdao. The first and closest to my apartment was Jinlingshan. It was only a 5 minute walk from the apartment and is also the place where bouldering began in the area. Rocker, the father of bouldering in Qingdao, China and probably all of China started climbing on Jinlingshan ten years ago after seeing pictures of our sport. He went at it alone for many years, soloing, until he fell and broke a leg. 2007 saw the birth of bouldering and a new direction for climbing in China. Rocker began to boulder and recruit others into his small world of climbing. Since 2007 his small world of climbing has steadily grown into the motivated crew Qingdao has today. Jinlingshan is where they meet during the week as evening sets in and work comes to an end, climbing until it is too dark to see the holds.

Looking at Jinlingshan from my apartment on a rain day.

I spent many days on Jinglingshan both alone and with the locals climbing both old and new problems. The rock is very good, a fine grain, brown granite and perfect height for bouldering . It was such a contrast to walk through a crowded city, wander up a dirt road past small vegetable gardens with migrant workers hard at cultivating and into the arms of the mountain. That escape will be a huge reason bouldering will grow in China. A mediation like no other.

From Jinlingshan looking into the eastern end of the city.

North of Jinlingshan is the industrial district Qingdao and maybe the greatest contrast of landscapes. The boulder hanging in the left side of the picture is the best on Jinlingshan and would hold its own anywhere in the world.

Kangaroo climbing a classic V3/4 on Jinlingshan

Tony working a V8/9 project on the Big One Boulder, Jinlingshan. We would often climb into the dark as conditions got cooler and better for the many small crimps. Mike Mills visited me in China for a few days before flying back home.

After only a few days on Jinlingshan, knowing the fantastic rock quality covered the entire mountain, I started to look west across the city to Fushan. The bigger of the two mountains in the city. I took a bus to edge of the mountain and looked for a way onto it. I ran into several dead ends with guard dogs or military guards to turn me back. Finally with the help of locals I gained access to the peak and wandered in amazement of the rock quality. The place is a massive city park that seeps with clean springs in forests while airy ridges guide trails along the sky line. Ocean fog often rolled in during the evening and obscured the city below, also adding a coolness to the sticky granite. I left many projects on Fushan and consider it one of the best hard bouldering concentrates I've seen anywhere!

Wandering the ridge crest of Fushan on the first bouldering evening there.

On the same day of bouldering as the above picture. You can see the Business District of Qingdao below and the fog bank building off the ocean. Such a peaceful park would be a gift for any city. For the quickly growing city of Qingdao it is a necessity.

Maybe the the finest boulder of the entire area is on Fushan. A huge granite wave hidden in the depths of the forest and graced by an ancient temple. The granite was perfect.

Rocker working the Temple Project, Fushan with Victor spotting. We completed the bottom half at around V8. Short of pads we planned on another visit, but ran out of time in the end. A project worth flying back for!

Another view of the Temple Project on Fushan. Rock quality was as good as it gets here. There may be two projects on this boulder as the chalked sloper suggests. A cold winter day would determine that possibility.

Tony bouldering out another good Fushan problem.

From the airy top of Fushan I could look both north and south to Laoshan the big mountains and to the rocky coast of the Yellow Sea respectively. Boulders were obviously everywhere, so I started to explore farther from the city. One thing that constantly drew my attention were thousands of boulders to the north on Laoshan. Once the locals knew I was there for the climbing and we shared the same addiction they started to reveal the locations in Laoshan and elsewhere. The bouldering just kept getting better and better. I would discover a good location and put up some problems. After work the locals would try the new stuff and then show me some problems of their own. Weekends started to have plans to get out of the city and even during the week some of the guys would call in sick and we would go out to the big boulder fields of Laoshan. It was an amazing time to be in Qingdao and to see the bouldering take the next step there. It was a great honor to play a role in the birth of bouldering there! I will always be thankful to Rocker and the others in the Qingdao bouldering scene for inviting me to their world.

Next post: China Bouldering 2/3 (The coastal boulders and Laoshan)

China Bound

2010-05-17T08:23:00.001-06:00

Many years ago, maybe ten, I was looking through some pictures of rock in China that Todd Skinner had taken and/or found in his quest for climbable rock. There was a single image of a huge granite boulder sitting in a tilted valley bottom, many more boulders in the back ground led to a granite dome. Todd was a fanatic for new rock and had found many of the planets best areas. He was looking for route potential at the time of the China picture and suggested that bouldering would be worth while there. The rock was supposedly very good. I was ready to go immediately. At the time, no one took it seriously and I never found a person to go to China with for a look. Roughly a year ago, I was again looking for international destinations where little development had so far happened and found a picture taken exactly where Todd or whoever had taken the previous picture. This time a person was bouldering on the bloc and it looked amazing! I tracked down the photographer and found out where, when and what was going on.
Basically, over in China, they have what we would call a situation. A massive amount of rock with few to climb on it. Wangzehn (also known as Rocker) the father of bouldering in China invited me over this spring to have a look, and that is exactly where I am going tomorrow! Five weeks to barely scratch the surface of what is looking like a sea of stone. Qingdao, China is my final destination. I have an apartment lined up five minutes from the boulders and lot of time to enjoy it. Maybe not enough time based on the amount of rock.
Wangzehn has sent me many, many pictures over the winter to temp me over and a few are shown here.

All Above photos by Wangzehn, Qingdao, China. You can find more of Rocker's photos by going to his blog (http://qdrocker.blog.sohu.com/) or by going to 8a.nu to track him down through the gallery section. He also posted a portfolio at climbing magazine where you can find his work online.

Yeah, those are huge granite boulders sitting on the Yellow Sea, and the the others are at various locations on the mountains above the sea. The mountains of granite rise several thousand feet out of the ocean and go for miles upon miles of broken granite. My wife did an in depth search this weekend of pictures of the area and found some encouraging images. She will meet me over there in a few weeks to enjoy the sea side stone.

My apartment is in the closer buildings somewhere. Near the sea but close to the climbing. The city of 2.5 million, Qingdao is seen down the coast.

The Switzerland of China as they call Qingdao and the surrounding area.

Fine Grain Granite Forever!

Yep, a situation!

Some very lucky little village sitting under a massive amount of good bouldering!

So, I'm off to the east. It is unclear if I can access this web site in China. It sounds like Blogger may be blocked. If I can update I will. Otherwise I will post here in five weeks or so. Enjoy spring.

A Bennett Peak Story

2010-05-10T11:34:00.000-06:00

On Friday night as I was settling in for a weekend with no plans the phone rang and I found Bryan on the other end. He was done with Flagstaff and on his way back to Upton, Wyoming to go back to work. Not being able to drive all the way to Laramie Friday night, he asked if I would meet him in Saratoga the next morning for a day of bouldering. His second request was to work on only hard things and skip the mass development days with only a hard problem here and there. I met him in Saratoga at the local Kum & Go taking in the scene and re-heating a danish in the sun of his dash board.
After a very brief discussion, weighing the pros and cons of various areas and harder undone lines we headed out to Bennett Peak. I regularly field questions about Saratoga Valley, more specifically Needle Peak, but have had only about three questions about Bennett Peak. It is the original bouldering area of the Saratoga Valley and has great potential. The drive is longer and the boulders are less developed and more spread out than Needle Peak. None the less, it is a premier bouldering area and a great place in the spring to pull some rock.

Bennett Peak, Wyoming

We drove straight to the Corral Creek camp ground, home to Bennett Peak's oldest problems and went straight to an old undone line. We cleaned it and half way warmed up on the top out of the thing and then went straight to work on Bryan's "only hard problems" request. What looked like it could be V7 turned into a major fight of core tension and finger pain. A real classic! A small crimp/pinch in a 50 degree roof leads to a flat side pull and really bad smearing to maintain body tension. Lock it all down and fidget a digit into a mono, somehow get an undercling pinch thing and then stand up to chuck for the lip and the "warm up" top out. That's all there was to it and it shut us down hard. It is now the Last Dirty Hole Project and highly recommended!

Bryan getting started on the Last Dirty Hole Project

Bryan working the last move of the project, guns ablaze

and the mono...

After a two hour warm up on the mono, feeling warm and a deep pain in the finger that counts, we headed a couple hundred yards down hill to another hard, unclimbed line. This one was an old one from the very early days of Bennett Peak bouldering. My wife Marla found it years ago on a break from camp. She didn't remember it when I was so excited to talk about it this spring. It is a line however that has stuck in my memory. It was my goal for the day and a beautiful line for a spring day.

Marla on the day she found the boulder of mention. The second boulder of a Bennett Peak Story.

The line felt very hard at first and the logical sit start on a big flake was found to be impossible. Not to be let down, Bryan figured out a theoretical way to start the problem still using a hand on the logical start and simply hanging on for dear life with the other hand while you step off the ground. A two hour session on the move yeilded no results. Bryan even suggested that my bump hold was not a hold at all, rather a portion of wall that had nothing to do with the problem. He was very right. We took a lunch break after we figured out the next several hard moves and decided we would at least top it out from some hold.

The project as it looked as we left for a lunch break.

After lunch we returned with hope of sticking the first move and had several good failures. Reaching the end of our motivation and strength, Bryan adjusted a finger tip or two on the starting flake and somehow stuck the move. I can only describe it as a micro study on core tension and body position that somehow involves a point of zero where nothing moves except the gripping left hand. Naturally he panicked and went into overdrive, send the damn thing mode. Missing a key foot in all the excitement he jumped off and had that look of disbelief. The thing would actually go!

Bryan getting two fingers adjusted under the roof before going for it. The sloper he is going for is a poor one.

Moments before sticking it

Holly, what just happened, Shit!

Panic mode and the next move.

With a changed mind, I put on my shoes and adjusted my two fingers under the roof. I reached the zero point and stuck the move too. I went through the motions of the next moves, barely sticking the second crux and not really thinking until I reached the top out. The top out was a pumped pile of sloping crap a good bit off the deck. I could tell Bryan was worried about the whole thing in the way he spouted encouragement. Like encouraging the first guy out of the trench. Saying "way to go", but thinking thank god it's not me. I spent a while adjusting various pumped out portions of my body until I numbly rolled over the top. Bryan gave it several good goes after that, always sticking the first zero point move crux, but not quite getting the second crux lock off. It was a really impressive effort to watch him do the crux move over and over!

I named the problem The Zero Point and we thought it might be V8. It is a V8 that is harder than all others we have done, but a V8 none the less. We wouldn't want things to get soft around here, so we're sticking with solid grades. It was a great day to go to something I had always wanted to do and to finish it in good style (except the top out).

Last Week Was Spring

2010-05-07T09:12:00.000-06:00

Last week was a long one. Spring came and went, and might be back today. Winter has held sway still for a long while. The warmer weather worked out well with Bryan Vansickle's visit to Laramie. We got out four days in a row and reached exhaustion. Bryan, living in Flagstaff, Arizona and working in Upton, Wyoming is now getting only a few visits in here and there. When he is here we cover a lot of ground to make up for lost time.
We managed our first Needle Peak day of the season. The access road was in top form, my jeep being the only vehicle to get in for the day. We climbed with a few others on this particular trip and had to shuttle into the peak to get everyone in. Ethan, Mike, Devlin and his family, and Guili all made it in. While the newcomers to Needle Peak tried some older classics Ethan, Bryan and I put up some new problems.

Tits Up V2 is a new problem on the Nautical Inspirations Boulder. Sit Starts on the bottom rail and follows the edges just left of the arete.

The Nautical Inspirations Boulder and a sky warning of the end of spring (In Wyoming the end of spring is the next winter, followed by a short summer)

Bryan and Ethan standing under what is now Give Me My Dick Back You Dirty Bitch V2. A Bryan Vansickle problem if ever there was one!

Mike taking a second ascent of the newly done A Diamond Sparkles V1. Ethan put up the problem on the same wall as The Gift. He is getting married soon!

After Needle Peak most folks went back to work the next day while Bryan and I headed to a destination of potential sport route development. We drove up to Glendo, Wyoming and the reservoirs along the North Platte River. There is a lot of rock in the area that is primarily limestone. We found tons of rock, but little potential. The majority of the walls were undercut with a sadly, chossy section. There is some potential for clean rock, we did see some, but hiking to it and finding good rock on public land is a project. Someone will bolt the choss there one day and indeed there will be some very good lines, but we know of better potential closer to home.

Bryan and Amie Dog walking the shore of Glendo in search of the goods. We passed a few good walls on our left, but nothing tall enough to warrant the work in putting in a good route so far from home.

Amie Dog in search of dead fish at Glendo Reservoir.

On the return drive from Glendo, Wyoming we stopped over in Sybille Canyon to look at some old routes from years past. Sybille Canyon is a forgotten canyon for climbing. A good deal of rock sits on public lands, but the access can be a hassle. Also, a good bit of the rock is poor quality. There are a few sections however of o.k. rock that lends itself to traditional climbing. It is a place for ground up and head point climbing and has great potential for ice and mixed routes too. Even in the end of April we found ice routes still hanging on!

An unclimbed line that would be a perfect route, ground up, above a pond. The route can be started on the far right side on dry ground, then diagonal-ed up the under clings into a natural line of seams. In the upper right corner of the picture is another wall with a classic ground up route Under The Bus 5.10a. The bus is on the sky line and perched for disaster.

Another view of The Under The Bus Wall. Under The Bus 5.10a follows the obvious center crack then trends left into the head wall and various seams. Expect long run outs on the head wall!

One of the North Walls showing the great mixed potential. Routes would be one to two pitches! This picture was taken April 27th and there was still climbable ice!

Another ice smear on a single pitch route.

On the hike out from the canyon Bryan and I were excited to return and put in some new routes. At the car Bryan found 9 ticks and I had 1. So, until further notice, to hell with that place. We also passed a man walking along the side of the dirt road. Asking if he was o.k. we noticed a certain look in his eye. I didn't stop driving because of that look. The guy was walking in the middle of nowhere, many miles from any house or car, in sweat pants and had nothing with him except a big smile and an "every things great" response. Psycho... and to hell with that place.

The next day was another Saratoga Valley day for Bryan and I. This time we went out to Bennett Peak to develop some new rock. We found a ton of good rock and had a hard time deciding on what to climb. After passing up many good blocs and getting the jeep really stuck, we started putting up good high balls in an area now called Boner City. The climbing was good and the day was long, but expensive. In releasing the Boulder Recon Vehicle from the grasp of Mother Earth I managed to cripple it by ruining a u-joint on the front axle while bending some other parts.

Mother Nature's grasp. A road that turns into a drift that turns into a five foot deep hole of mud and snow.

The Boulder Recon Vehicle free, but carrying the trauma of the hole that tried so hard to swallow it. We were a minute away from driving again and hearing the dreaded click and clunk of the front end.

Bryan cleaning the top of what would become The Decoy (left side) and Camera In A Box (right side) Two very good high balls at the new Boner City.

Bryan nearing the top of the high but fantastic warm up The Decoy V1, Boner City, Bennett Peak, Wyoming.

Bryan climbing another good V1 in Boner City. This one is Great Expectations V1. It is 20' tall and the holds get better up high until a last move gaston to the lip of the boulder.

Every thing was tall in Boner City and well featured. To get there, drive into Bennett Peak and look for a right turn just before dropping into private land and the first camp ground of Bennett Peak. The boulders are across a creek and the road to access them crosses the creek too. They are the only boulders across the creek. rive to far and you are at Bennett Peak proper. Drive to short and there is no right turn that crosses a creek.

The last day of our grand adventure involved an entire day of driving and recon into areas I've been sworn to keep secret. They are places Bryan found and loves. Good rock and access is all I can say.

In 10 days I leave for a month in China. A bouldering recon trip like no other I've taken. I will update as well as I can on t he trip and if not on the trip, when I return in the end of June. I will give a small teaser of China bouldering before I go.

Snow Again, Always

2010-03-23T16:00:00.001-06:00

Many months ago, in October I made a short list of hard projects to chip away at over the winter. That was on October 26 the first day of shit weather we had. Day after day went by with gray, cruel sky and snow. Yesterday was my second day on a project since winter set in. Lets just say that the chipping was minimal this past season. No hard projects went here in the Laramie area. Sounds like a similar story for a good part of the country and as of today, the weather continues to suck.

The Boulder Recon Vehicle waiting out yet another snow storm. Pads are waiting in the back, as is the stick brush.

Looking at the weather forecast showed a break of gray yesterday, so I loaded up and went to the project. It was the usual post hole, wet socks and pants trudge. The sun was out and very little wind. I willingly approached the "Curt Gowdy Project" as it has been titled by the locals. The feeling of spring air was too much for the well developed cabin fever. I smiled all the way to the boulders. Every post hole was greeted with a smile, even the break through into the slush puddle was a laugh. It was spring dammit and a great day for bouldering.
The trip was one that had two objectives. The first was to obviously chip away at some projects. The second was to go at it alone. Many, many times I've boulderd alone. Sometimes by situation, sometimes by choice, this time a test. I've been climbing with the same crew for some time now, but have been informed that the crew will be halved in a short while. Ethan is fielding job offers in all places but here, and Bryan is loading the U-Haul as I write this. Giuli, the final member of the team is busy in grad school, injured, and without a vehicle, so myself is who I've got for a while. I boulderd two straight years alone When I lived in Dubois, Wyoming, but it has been a long while since doing so. Yesterday was a reminder of those solo days, a refresher. In any case it was a needed day.
Not wanting to walk too far I warmed up on a couple new problems for the area. Barely cleaning I put up two side by side first ascents. The first a 30' 5.6 mini route, ground up, lie backing a flake. The second is a choss pile I called Desperate Dudes Do Desperate Deeds V3. After all I just needed to warm up, so choss would do. Successfully missing my pad on the down climb was muddy, but a good reminder to be alert when alone.

Desperate Dudes Do Desperate Deeds V3, Curt Gowdy State Park, Wyoming. Sit down, grab the lowest sloper and go. This is up hill from the "Curt Gowdy Project" which is up hill from the stuff I've mentioned in this blog earlier. See the Curt Gowdy descriptions. The 5.6 is just behind this, left of the frame.

I moved onto the project and continued the warm up. Stuck inside all winter with only steep bouldering walls with small holds turned out to be a good thing. I immediately broke a hold pulling too hard and moved to another, lesser crimp that was previously too small. It is small, but definitely the beta needed. The better hold that broke was bogus and progress moved to the next two moves, the crux. Both, in earlier times were a guess at best, not even being able to hold the needed holds. Now I was tugging and pulling and actually feeling moves. The top half went first go all the way through! So excited to make progress. Only two or three moves to get better at!

The Curt Gowdy Project is in the dark overhang on the big boulder. Granite Reservoir can be seen in the distance, still frozen, still cold.

Another view of the Curt Gowdy Project

Now a snow storm with several inches of the unspeakable is here. Covering the project and choss alike. Time to sit inside and consider the lessons. In a college town people come and go. This will be my second really dependable crew to disband. My fourth crew total in 10 years. It will take time to find another ship of fools. Winter makes us stronger, just have to keep the focus. The mind is what has to be trained more than the body. Fighting cabin fever can be a project in its self. Many of my best bouldering days have been solo. Sometimes the focus and silence of being alone in the wild is as good as a bunch of friends. Patience is a virtue as my mama always said. In Wyoming it will snow all the time. Smile when the snow looses for even a single day in a place like this. Use every day you get!

Spring Break

2010-03-20T09:30:00.000-06:00

Spring Break

The great transition from winter to summer in the academic world. For many of the American spring breakers the story is the same. Students unwind with some booze and a pack of rubbers. Maybe a trip somewhere nice that is only nice if it isn't spring break there. Teachers maybe try the same, but nights are much sooner ended, say 8:30. In Wyoming spring break is a time of transitions too. A transition from plastic holds to the real ones that cut the fingers. From freezing winter snow to freezing spring snow. And most importantly, a trip to some boulder field, somewhere, where the days are warm and nights are damn cold.

This year the weather was amazing in our region of the state so I stayed local and just enjoyed the rock I had almost forgotten. This was a winter to remember, or to forget. It was snowy and the snow never melted. We still have it all over the place, but the sun is slowly winning. It was a rare treat to climb in a t-shirt on sun warmed stone. To get a sun burn, again, and to feel silence that can only be felt in the wild. The break began with snow and is ending with snow. The days between were such a reward for this winter.

Now, with some rock to climb, I will actually update this blog from time to time. New rock found last year is waiting patiently to be climbed. Old rock I needed pictures of is waiting too. I will post here as it comes to be. Until I get out this week here are some pictures from a few different spring breaks.
Often, I will climb localy for the break. Sweet Water Rocks, The Natural Corrals, and Saratoga Valley are all good this time of year. I've already shown a bit of the Saratoga Valley, so here's a few other places in Wyoming.

Myself on the FA of a V5 with no name, North Mountain, Sweet Water Rocks, Wyoming.

Myself at the El Paso Boulder, Sweet Water Rocks, Wyoming. The line I'm looking at has been done by a few of us from the top 2/3 at V10 or so, but the obvious full line is still waiting. The big flake is a very good V5 that cruises to the top of the huge boulder.

The El Paso Boulder. Steep on all sides!

Joe Johnson walking up the Moonstone, Sweet Water Rocks, Wyoming.

The hand crack and traverse are the longest boulder problem I've ever done.

Rio Rose, spotted by Karn Piana climbing over a snake pit at Sweet Water Rocks, Wyoming. In early April, when we were climbing at this section of rock a rattle snake den was waking from winter. Had to be really concience about where to sit, walk, and reach.

Liz Hajek on a really nice problem at the Hampi Boulders, Sweet Water Rocks, Wyoming.

Early wanderings through the waste land boulders of the Natural Corrals, Wyoming. This is a great place to boulder, but is way out there in the middle of nowhere. Has a very forgotten feeling.

Dave Nash under the Turtle Shell, Natural Corrals, Wyoming.

Dave Nash on FA of Dave's Wave V5, Natural Corrals, Wyoming.

Dave Nash's jeep got really stuck one fine spring morning on the road into the Natural Corrals. We spent the first half of the day getting out. Later, this jeep was sold to me, lifted, upgraded, and given better rubber. It is now the Boulder Recon Vehicle and laughs at this type of road.

Forgotten Vedauwoo Bouldering

2010-02-08T12:34:00.000-07:00

In the past weeks a number of people have asked me about where the last few undiscovered bouldering areas may be in Vedauwoo. There are several I'm sure as Vedauwoo always gives to those who walk enough. What is amazing however, is the fact that even with several people looking for new rock in the area they have not managed to find some good, already developed stones. Between 2001 and 2006 several areas were developed, each one larger than the last. Many good problems sit waiting for anyone to climb them. I will list four areas here that were not included in the guide book for whatever reason, not a choice of mine. They were all found and developed by a few people, myself being the only one left in Laramie that knows the story of the places.

The Washing Machine Boulders
The area was discovered by Dave Nash and Mathew Williams way back in the day. The boulders tend to be smaller and of the few move variety, but the quality of the rock is by far the best in Vedauwoo. The best slopers in Vedauwoo are hidden here on a few small blocs. From Interstate 80 take exit 323 to Wyoming 210 (Happy Jack Highway) east bound towards Cheyenne. After 4 1/2 miles you will cross a drainage complete with beaver ponds and start up a hill. At 4 3/4 mile park off to the west side of the road in a paved pull out. On the opposite (east) side of the road is a small crag with a few boulders in the forest below. The approach is both obvious and short. The crag sits on Bisbee Hill and the boulders lie directly under the crag. There are a few problems another 1/4 mile southeast along the Bisbee Hill ridge and are more easily reached by driving the 1/4 mile to the next pull out (unpaved pullout). I spent 30 minutes digging through old pictures and sadly don't have a single one from this area. If Mathew Williams finds one for me I will post it here. Rest assured, the bouldering is worth it!

Close Encounters Boulders
One evening in the early spring of 2002 Dave Nash and myself both showed up at the local climbing gym, both grinning ear to ear. That morning we had skipped our classes to follow the urge we had woken with that morning. The urge to find new rock in the back areas of Vedauwoo. Dave slipped out of town on his own, as did I, both following the voice in our head to drive down a lonely dirt road and walk across an equally lonely field to a destination that at first glance holds very little hope of rock.
Dave described the area he had found with excitement and what sounded to others as a bit of exaggeration. Not wanting to be left out I described the area I had found that same day and must have seemed just as exaggerative as Dave. Our stories varied to the point of knowing we had found two new areas to develop. Then we both described a boulder with a nose on it. Every detail was the same, even the exaggerations! I turns out we had found the same way-out-there area within 30 minutes of each other on the same day. It was a strange experience, especially when we both described the urge we had followed that morning.
The bouldering turned out to be really good. There are several good problems in the area and two routes we put up. One of the problems Citizen Of The West V6/7 is a Vedauwoo classic that should be done by all who visit.

The Close Encounter Boulder, Vedauwoo, Wyoming. There are several problems on this boulder. Citizen Of The West V6/7 takes the obvious arete in the center of the picture.

Dave Nash on the crux sloper of The Third Finger V4, Close Encounters Boulders, Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Mathew Williams Photography

To get to the Close Encounters Boulders Go 2.8 miles eastbound from I-80 exit 323 on Wyoming 210 (Happy Jack Highway) to Telephone Road, Forest Rd 712. Follow Rd. 712 for about 2 miles to an intersection and continue right (southeast) on Rd. 712 for another 2 miles or so. At the next large intersection with Forest Rd. 714 take a left on Rd. 714 northward. Continue on Rd. 714 as it swings back west for 1.5 miles. A small crag will be seen along the valley bottom to the north. Wander from the car into the valley toward the small crag. There are boulders down there. You can also get to these boulders from Eagle Rock for those of you who know what that is. These boulders are 1.5 miles east from Eagle Rock down Rd. 714 and in the same drainage.

The Middle of Nowhere

In 2004 the national Forest Service started to enforce a seasonal road closer in the Vedauwoo area which made for an even longer winter wait to climb in many areas. The closer is from March through the end of may and closes access to many good back areas. I found the Middle of Nowhere Boulders by taking one of the only roads open during the seasonal closure. It has baffled me to see people looking for new rock and miss this area. It is directly off the side of a major Forest Service road. Anyway, the bouldering is very good in the spring and well sheltered from the wind. It also gets sun for most of the day. The area is best reached by following the directions mentioned previously for the Close Encounters Boulders, but remain on Rd. 712 beyond the intersection with Rd. 714 for another 1/4 mile. A ridge of boulders extends south of the road where the road forks into three smaller roads and the seasonal closer begins for those roads. Walk to the boulders.

There are a few good, but shorter problems in the area including Positivity V6, Negativity V8, and Chrysalis V8. There is also a good lieback highball Poor Man V2. There are about 20 problems in the area with potential for more. I developed the area alone in the spring of 2004, so I have only a few pictures from a tour I gave two years ago.

Pablo Kolmar on Positivity V6, The Middle of Nowhere, Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Negativity V8 is on a boulder directly behind the crew.

Mitch Fyock on a beautiful arete at The Middle of Nowhere, Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Green Canyon

Green Canyon is technically in the same area as The Middle of Nowhere, but lies in the bottom of the valley as apposed to the ridge of the previously mentioned location. It is worth driving to Green Canyon rather than walking from the ridge top. To get there follow the directions as to The Middle of Nowhere then take the right fork of the three forked road. Park at the bottom of the hill where the road splits in a meadow. Green Canyon proper is up valley and very obvious, while the boulders are directly across the small stream from the meadow intersection. They are on a small ridge in spread out pine trees. There are boulders up valley too, in the canyon as can be seen from the road, but they are not as good as what you will see here.

Possibly the best V6 in Vedauwoo is in Green Canyon. It is named Optimus Prime and is very prime. That one problem should be worth the drive for most of you.

Josh Helke on the second ascent of Barnaby On The Prairie V3, Green Canyon, Vedauwoo, Wyoming. A problem I named after his dog who would take huge 1/4 mile running laps through the meadow behind the boulder.

Josh Helke on the coveted second ascent of Optimus Prime V6, Green Canyon, Vedauwoo, Wyoming. This maybe the finest V6 in all of Vedauwoo!

Josh Helke takes another lap on Optimus Prime V6.

As with anything I post on this blog, do not hesitate to ask if you want more specific directions, problem descriptions, or a tour of one of the areas. This info is here for you to use!

These are but a few of many forgotten areas in Vedauwoo. For the remaining areas I lack pictures enough to list on this blog. I will do what I can to get the information up here as pictures become available.

Between Colorado and Wyoming - Rawah and Zirkel Bouldering

2010-01-27T10:29:00.001-07:00

The previous summer was my first for spending the entire summer in Laramie, Wyoming. Stoked at first to climb in my home town in good weather, I was slowed by an early heat wave in the late spring. Vedauwoo was out for most of the hot days as was any old rock in the area. I wanted new problems on new rock in the cool mountain air. The entire reason I leave laramie in the summer. As previously mentioned in this blog I had discovered new bouldering all over the Snowy Range. That however was not enough, only being satisfied when I go completely crazy with too much rock to possibly climb in my life time. So, naturally from the southern Snowy Range I headed to the next peaks on the sky line to the south. The Zirkel Mountains were first and very hard to explore from the eastern side. I spent three full days driving and hiking the Zirkels on the their eastern side. After 4 mile (thought it was 2) hike Austin Jensen, Bryan Vansickle, and my self arrived at our first discovery of rock for our Zirkel explorations.

Boulders at Lake Katherine, Zirkel Wilderness, Colorado

We walked around Lake Katherine to the obvious large boulders and found some very good rock. It was all high quality black and gold gneiss. There is a bunch more rock out of the picture, but at an 8 mile round trip, you would have to be crazy. I hiked to several other lakes in the Zirkel Wilderness over the past summer and found similar rock, but similar walks. If you want a beautiful day hike without the bouldering pad, Lake Katherine and the eastern side of the Zirkels are well worth it!

With my wife Marla and our dog Amiee we went to check out some boulders only a mile up the from a trail head. The road to the trail head is marked on a map as a jeep trail, but that doesn't even come close to describing the rock gully, hell hole, mud pit it was. I have a jeep, the Boulder Recon Vehicle that I built bare bones for severe abuse on the worst jeep trails (A topic for another post). That was the first trail that has ever turned me back. We spent an hour on a 1/8 mile section just to find a place to turn around. Loose boulders the size of my engine had to be delt with along with deep water holes and boulder fields covered in water and mud. All in the comfy closeness of huge trees, some across the road. With another jeep to help I would love to go back and finish the road to the boulders. Anyone?

Marla and The Boulder Recon Vehicle on a recon mission a few years back.

The Roads in the Zirkels were, as a rule, really bad unless they were the gravel variety. Looking for and climbing on the rock in the eastern Zirkels takes time and energy. Not the best place if you just want bouldering. The western side of the Zirkels is a question that in spring will be known.

After the Zirkels almost broke me and the jeep I moved on to the Rawah Mountains between Fort Collins, Colorado and Walden, Colorado. The Poudre canyon area gives access to Cameron Pass on the southern extent of the range. Obviously there is good bouldering there, so I focused on the northern end, closer to Wyoming. I forgot the Zirckels fast, as rock was just off the road on the very first trip. The trouble was the maze of public vs. private land to figure out. Once the puzzle was solved I spent several good days exploring and putting up problems with Guili Zavaschi and Bryan Vansickle. The rock just off the road can been seen in the pictures below.

The best rock we found was a 2 mile hike in and over a thousand feet of vertical to help us warm up. I actualy found the good rock with my wife Marla. She is a magnet for good rock and almost all the rock I have developed was found with her. Again, she helped find a good area! The rock was good enough to warrant the hike despite good rock just off the road, lower in the valley. I wish I could have done more bouldering in the area, but a finger injury took me out of climbing at the end of the season. I only had a single day in the best boulders we had found. No more trips to the Rawahs or the Zirkels took place after that. Now it is full winter and the rock south of Laramie will have to wait. What I can say is that the climbing was very good and the scenery too. The huge boulders of granite are hidden deep in the forest on a north facing slope. We had perfect conditions in the middle of summer! It is completely worth the 2 mile hike into the boulders and the deep forest.

We had a deer watch us the entire day we were in the woods. It walked around us within 30 or 40 feet at times to see what a few of us might be doing in the boulders and massive trees. It was clearly at home and we were it's guests for the day. On occasion it would stop by our packs to smell the lunches we had packed in. It finaly tipped over Guili's pack and got into mine, taking some of my granola bar in the process. We viewed the deer as the forest's queen and let it eat what was left of the granola. I redirected the deer before it had my peanut butter and banana sandwich.

Marla in the deep forest on discovery day. The boulders are huge and close together. One after another can be seen looming through the dark woods.

Guili Zavaschi on Duende V3/4 in the Rawah, Colorado.

Guili Zavaschi on the first ascent of Toucheded V7 in the Rawah, Colorado. Just left of Guili behind the tree is Forest Queen V0 a beautiful warmup and right of Guili on the steeper stone is Kablooey V7/8.

Another viw of Toucheded and Forest Queen (behind Guili). Two studs Bryan Vansickle and Guili Zavaschi look at the top crux.

Bryan Vansickle putting up Foo Foo V4 an amazing sloper problem. Notice Guili's down coat in the middle of August!

Guili Zavaschi putting up a V5 that he was too tired to name. The slopers were amazing and the day was perfect!

We climbed from 9:30 in the morning until the sun went down. Our sessions are always long and we do a lot of climbing in those sessions. The difference with this one was the hike out. We stumbled down a "short cut" to get back to our car. Descending 1000 vertical feet through deep forest and marshes, then crossing a fast flowing river all before the final mile was hard, but it was no short cut. It was a long end to a very good day.

The finger is 110% now and I think about the boulders in the forest a lot. I will be so happy to load up the jeep and pads to head back to the Rawah. We left a lot of rock with no chalk on it. We left a lot to do.

Bryan Vansickle trying an amazing project in the Rawah, Colorado.

Nathan Manley A Wyoming Legend

2010-01-20T08:40:00.003-07:00

Yesterday, Laramie was graced by the presence of an old friend. Nathan Manley was here and it was great to see him! Originally from Cody, Wyoming, Nathan has been a huge contributor and influence in Wyoming Climbing. It has been some years since his last visit to Laramie and the wait for his return was a long one.
Back in the day, when we were both younger, we met at the University if Wyoming climbing wall. I noticed his strength first then his motivation. In Cody, through the high school years he had contributed many new boulder problems, routes, and some ice. Nathan's early bouldering was done on the sandstone of Cedar Mountain with the early Cody crew and in the Lander area with a few young guns there. His determination was evident when he explanied he often spent lunch in his freezing car eating a power bar and reading a climbing mag. All to get ready for a "physical test". Alpine climbing was his dream.
At the time we met in the college years, I did not know his contributions to Wyoming Bouldering and Wyoming climbing in general. He wanted to go bouldering and I needed someone to boulder with. At that time Vedauwoo was ripe for the picking and entire virgin areas were everywhere. For several years we drove up and developed rock all over the place. We climbed ice a few times together and quickly realized, had we met back in high school
the big mountains of the world would have probably killed us. Two excited and glory blinded alpinists that never found a partner to do the crazy with and we only lived a bit apart. Must have been ment to be. We were ment to go bouldering after the crazy years had passed us by. However, to this very day he still lives by the N.F.L. (Ninja for Life) creed. Actions speak louder than words, Dream big dreams, Live those dreams, Whatever blows your hair back, and Eye of the Tiger...
After a few beers last night Nathan gave us the good news. Nathan Manley will be back in Wyoming for a while. It is very exciting to have an old climbing partner back in the area. So many boulders to climb on and one of the best in the business is back in town. If you go bouldering in the Cody, Lander or laramie areas you can thank Nathan for many of problems that you struggle on. You can thank him in person with a $5 bill. Money is time and time is money. The more cash he gets back in Wyoming the more time to climb he will have. Many more boulders to thank Mr. Manley for are coming soon.

Nathan Manley working on what would become The Manley Bulge V8, Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Mathew Williams Photography

Nathan Manley (farthest back) and Myself waiting for our turns on Thorn Back V6/7, Vedauwoo, Wyoming. Nathan would often climb long after his fingers were bleeding and all is tape was used. Always to get full value out of the day. On this very good day, Nathan's fingers had started bleeding about two hours prior to the picture being taken. He walked the problem! Tony Gleason climbing.

Mathew Williams Photography

Nathan Manley on the first ascent of Myths and Heroes V6, Torrey Valley, Wyoming.

On Nathan's last visit to Laramie back in 2004 or 2005 we had a great day of bouldering, The School Yard, Wyoming.

Nathan Manley is a natural on the stone. Similar to Johnny Dawes in style and focus!

Nathan Manley in 2004, back on his home turf and looking really strong (as usual) on The Plague V10. at the Sphinx Boulders, Cody Wyoming. This problem consumed him as his motivations always do. A proud line and one of the best in Wyoming!

Saratoga Valley Bouldering

2010-01-14T12:20:00.001-07:00

Many years ago, sitting at a summer desk job, a friend of mine called to tell me he had found "some boulders".
Joe Johnson was a fly fishing guide in the Saratoga valley and not being a boulderer had called me to check out his find in case it was "worth bouldering". I drove over the pass that is the Snowy Range and easily found the boulders by 2pm the same day Joe called. Instantly Bennett Peak became a favorite bouldering destination for me and several other climbers. I put up a few first ascents that first day and went back to Laramie to recruit help to develop the area. Bennett Peak became one of several very good bouldering areas in the Saratoga Valley. Needle Peak and Silver Spur gained popularity with the myself and the few I brouht over the pass to climb with, and have slowly become the core areas of the valley.
Initialy a few "guided" toures of the Bennett Peak are by some poeple besides myself had led to the idea that the bouldering was just not that good. the tour guides did not know the area, hence the limited tours that completely missed the mark. So, with the reputation on the Front Range that Saratoga Valley was not a place to go, I climbed mostly alone for several years there. Later, I was able to motivate a small crew to develop the area alone with. A small, highly devoted group has put in the work. Bryan Vansickle, Ethan McMahan, more recently Guili Zavaschi all helped me realize that bouldering alone was slow work. Over several years we have put in hundreds of boulder problems of every possible angle and grade. Twenty foot warmups on jugs and V11 roof problems sit side by side. What Saratoga Valley holds is some of the very best bouldering I've put up or been on anywhere! It has consumed me and will always be my home. The Saratoga crew, beat down after a long day (sometimes 10 hours!) of bouldering often joke that we will be back in the autumns of our lives to run laps on the old favorites. I hope so.
So, after sneaking out of Laramie day after day, for years, a few people started to think that maybe we were onto something. Strangly, the call and question "can I have a tour of Saratoga Valley?" did not come from anyone in Laramie, but from Scott Blunk in Fort Collins, Co. After a freezing spring day in a snow storm that was sure to scare him away, he mentioned that Needle Peak might be the best bouldering in the northern Front Range. He came back with Steve Mallard and later the Lloyd Family. What I thought was the shot to start the races was infact a pop and fizz. Outside of Needle Peaks busiest weekend, last spring, that had a grand total of 9 people, no one has shown. Needle Peak has been the busy mountain, but several other places to boulder are out in the valley. They are very lonely, only hosting a few climbers a year.
With several hundred boulder problems on amazing gneiss and granite, often close to the road, it is a wonder how the place is so lonely. My only request if you go is to respect the place as if it were a spiritual center of great importance. For a few of us it is. A truelly legendary place!

Ashley Lloyd on the Square Tower, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

John Sherman coming down after a first ascent of a "boulder" problem (i.e. solo), The Axe Boulder, Needle Peak, Wyoming. The Lloyds working The Axe V7/8 below.

Ethan McMahan heading for the top of Habit of Neglect V6/7, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Bryan Vansickle trying to link the New Cactus Project, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Bryan Vansickle on Plus Size Cobra Pinch V1, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

David Lloyd on the crux huck of Sweet Things To Do When You're Old V6, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Guili Zavaschi working for the second send of Claudius V10, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Steve Mallard juicing Upside Down Foot V7 while Scott Blunk looks good, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Ethan McMahan on the first ascent of Royal Oats V5/6, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Last sun of the day on the Bonanza Boulder and the Bunny Slope Boulder, Needle Peak, Wyoming.

Just beyond the mountain of Needle Peak is a horrible drive down a two track for a mile or two. At the end of the road is Silver Spur a rarely visited, smaller version of Needle Peak. It is home to a few very good problems and many things that have not been done. Perhaps the best V3 in the Valley is at Silver Spur. It is a 25 foot roof on jugs with a crux exit and is called Silver Spur.

Myself on The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly V9?, Silver Spur, Wyoming.

The White Spike Project at Silver Spur, Wyoming.

Bennett Peak is the original area in Saratoga Valley that Joe Johnson found so many years ago. It is still a favorite and the only place to go for camping in style. Bennett Peak is a mountain of granite boulders cut by the North Platte River. It is an amazing place to be on cool spring mornings when the sun first cuts through the river mist and the birds start to fill the air. It is also the local for one of America's Blue Ribbon Trout areas. The fishing is world famous and the scenery likely the same.

Discovery of Noon Rocks with Bevan Frost at Bennett Peak, Wyoming.

Bryan Vansickle on Red, White and Rock V7, Bennett Peak, Wyoming.

My wife Marla under a boulder she found hiding in the juniper, Bennett Peak, Wyoming.

Bennett Peak, Wyoming in the early spring.

Best of 2009 - "The Source" Lander Bouldering

2009-12-28T10:52:00.000-07:00

Bouldering in Lander is very good! Wild Iris and Sinks canyon have good bouldering and Sinks in particular has a very good variety of it. The bottom of the canyon is sandstone of mixed quality, then limestone and dolomite fill in the middle of the canyon. The top of the canyon is all granite and very good smooth granite. Many people have contributed problems in the area over a very long time (in terms of bouldering time). After living in the area for two years and climbing most of what was known in Sinks Canyon I started looking farther up the canyon and up the "switch backs" that continue the road into the Wind River high country above Lander. After a few meager findings my wife suggested an old high school hang, up in the mountains where she remembered boulders.
We found so much rock on the first trip there that we loosely named the area above Sinks Canyon, The Source. The Source being the source of the good rock (granite) that finds its way into the valley below. The title refers to all the rock beyond the upper parking lot of sinks canyon (up the falls trail) and above the switch backs that lead a person out of the canyon below (Frye Lake, Worthen Meadows Reservoir, and the drainage above those bodies of water). Originaly we had only started bouldering on the rock near the lakes and reservoirs and thus created some confusion when Steve Bechtel put the location in the Lander Bouldering Guide. The fifty problems mentioned in the guide are not all in one location, rather they are spread in several different areas. All in the general area of The Source. Some people have suggested that the area of Frye Lake and Worthen Meadows Reservoir up in the high country are seperate from that of the Falls Trail below in the valley. The hill side directly under Frye Lake is a continoues boulder field all the way to the Popo Agie River and the Falls Trail. They are forever linked boulder to boulder.

Frye Lake is in the upper right of the picture while the Popo Agie River is along the bottom.

There are five seperate areas of The Source that have been bouldered at so far and much more is to be done at each one. The first is the area up river from Bruce's Picnic Grounds and the upper most parking in Sinks Canyon. The Falls Trail begins here and takes you up under the obvious Granite Buttress. Many boulders sit up the canyon from the parking lot.

Dave Nash on Rio's V5 a very good problem just off the trail.

Guili Zavaschi working on a project up the falls trail just beyond the Granite Buttress. This is a very good project that is close to going. A very hard move guards a V10 roof and hard exit.

Guili Zavaschi on a FA in 2008 along the Popo Agie River. This problem is seen from the trail on the far side of the river. Crossing the river in the fall is recommended as the river is deadly most of the rest of the year. From this problem several good problems are found up hill in the forest.

Bryan Vansickle Picture

A horse packer ignoring good blocs right off the trail.

The second area to consider in the The Source is the huge boulder field between the Popo Agie and Frye Lake. It is rarely visited but well worth the walk. The easiest way to get to the boulders is from above. Park at the lowest Frye Lake parking on the bottom end of the reservoir. Walk to the small dam and then descend into the forest diagonaling along a granite ridge of sort. A view of the hill side is the first picture on this post. Not a good place to be alone as large cats use the area and like the taste of you.

My sister looking over the Popo Agie drainage from below Frye Lake. The huge number of good boulders are below the crag she stands on.

The view below the crag of the previous picture. The upper most boulders are seen as huge lumps below the cliff band.

The third sector of the source is directly above Frye Lake along the road. I don't really have any pictures from this area yet because it is where I go when alone. It is close to road and down hill from the boulders in case something goes wrong. Most of the boulders are smaller here and a bit more spread out. Lots of good slopers!

Frye Lake with the smaller granite domes above. The road is between the lake and forest in the distance along the meadow. Park and walk into the woods up hill to find the rock.

The Fourth location to boulder in The Source is where it is listed in Steve Bechtels guide to Lander bouldering. It is the area of large granite dome just above the fork in the road. The granite is well featured and is rightly the most concentrated area of The Source. Park where the loop road continues straight and the Worthen Meadows road goes right. Currently the end of the paved road. Walk toward the large dome either heading to the left or right sides where big boulders have roled down the hill.

Unclimbed boulders above what has been climbed on the granite dome listed as The Source in the Lander Bouldering Guide.

Exit Stage Right Area on the left bottom side of the granite dome.

Exit Stage Right Area

The Fifth and final area that has been climbed at at The Source is the Worthen Meadows Reservoir Area. It is the original area that was developed for bouldering. Many of the boulders are directly off the road at the reservoir proper whle many that were found later are a ways off the road. A short walk provides many good boulders. There is a ton to climb here and camping is good. The boulders directly off the road are easy to find. The rock off the road is varied and hard to find in some cases. Some of the rock is along the drainage, above the reservoir. Be careful crossing the creek in the early season. Also, beware of the cats here.

Myself on the first ascent of Cobwebs and Water V7 along the drainage above Worthen Meadows Reservoir.

A beautiful project near Cobwebs and Water

Some boulders up the drainage from Worthen Meadows Reservoir

Dave Nash back in the day, on the second ascent of Viskers V6. This classic problem is next to Worthen Meadows Reservoir at the parking area for the reservoir. Look for the sign that explains the reservoir. Many boulders are behind the sign on the shore of the reservoir.

Best Of 2009 - Curt Gowdy State Park

2009-12-13T09:58:00.001-07:00

Curt Gowdy State Park is a part of the Vedauwoo area. For fifteen years or so it sat with good rock that was illegal to climb on. Myself and others had been kicked out and hope was lost to repeat any of the classic routes there. Three years ago a few posts were put up on Mountain Project suggesting that climbing was now legal. With doubt, but hope, I researched and found the truth. A new park manager and a change of heart by the State Of Wyoming opened the park to "outdoor recreation" activities. Bouldering included!
I went into Curt Gowdy over the first winter the park was open to find the old routes and imediately found boulders. The bouldering like the rest of Vedauwoo is Sherman Granite. It is highly varied in quality, spread out in most places, and perfect for winter bouldering. Curt Gowdy State Park sits 1200' to 1000' lower than Vedauwoo proper and closer the Cheyenne than Laramie. It is the same elevation as Laramie and protected by a south facing valley in most places. Often when Laramie and the entire Vedauwoo area is covered in snow and wind, Curt Gowdy is perfect for sending.

Even in the depths of a winter forest boulders are touched by the sun.

Curt Gowdy is seperated into two parts because of Happy Jack Highway. A north side and a south side both have a rock. The north side however is much smaller and more limited in regards to access. The Hynds Lodge area is the only public section on the north side of the highway and area is regulated. It is open to those who rent the lodge for $100.00 a day and closed to all others during that time. You can climb on the north side of the road as long as no one is using the lodge. It is a good idea to check in with the park to o.k. the session before going north. The south side is always open to climbing and is the place to go if you can't speak with the park or the lodge is rented. The south side of Curt Gowdy is the side with Granite and Crystal Reservoirs. And with that, the problems at Curt Gowdy are shown below.

Myself on Sexy Time V2. A good warmup on the south side of Curt Gowdy.

Guili Zavaschi standing under Ben's Mom V5 which also has a sit start at V7. Guili's usual golden halo is seen above his head.

Ben's Mom Boulder above Granite Reservoir

Mitch Fyock on Hot Itch V6. A good problem up hill from Sexy Time and Ben's Mom.

Mike Hafner on his Get Some V8. This powerful and reachy problem is in the same sector as the previous problems shown.

Guili Zavaschi on God's Unwanted Children V5 (sandbag). A classic Bryan Vansickle problem that has a poor landing, is tall, and probably V7.

Guili nearing the crux on God's Unwanted Childeren.

Bryan Vansickle on The Beast Spine V8. A problem I put up winter of 2008. It is just above the Aspen Grove Trailhead. God's Unwanted Children is just north of this on the same ridge of stone.

All of the above problems are accessed by the Aspen Grove Trailhead. Take the south arm of the A Loop to find Sexy Time of the north side of the trail. Then walk the small valley up hill (north) to find all other problems. Ben's Mom is on the ridge in the center of the A Loop, not near a trail. The Beast Spine and God's Unwanted Children are directly north of the parking lot. The Beast Spine is visible from the parking area.

There are good problems on the north side of Happy Jack highway as mentioned. Please be aware of the access there as you need to ask and be sure that the Hynds Lodge is not being used by others. If in doubt or you can't find park staff to speak with, go south.

Guili Zavaschi on Scrape V5

Guili Zavazschi on Hicup V3

Best of 2009-Central Vedauwoo Bouldering

2009-12-06T11:24:00.002-07:00

The subject of Vedauwoo Bouldering is broad. Too broad to put in a single post and too broad to fit even in this blog. A large portion of this blog will cover what has and has not (projects) been done at Vedauwoo. Much of Vedauwoo's past will be presented in no particular order and in no particular series of events. So, with that in mind "Best of 2009" is a bit misleading.
It is -20 degrees with wind chill and snow is coming down. Random memories and thoughts have led to searches through my thousands of pictures. Today I went through old Vedauwoo pictures from past seasons as I drank my morning coffee. A lot of motivation was found in the old images, but the gym will have to do. Today's post is a random sample of things that most don't know about. Things that escaped the pages of the guide book or were done after the guide was put out. All vey classic and worth the effort.
Central Vedauwoo is a place of many good lines. It has the largest number of classic problems of any area in Vedauwoo and the largest number of hard problems. Every season new rock is found despite the limited acreage of good stone in Central. It is my favorite place to boulder in the Vedauwoo area because of the growing possibilty there. Witness below the wonder that is Central Vedauwoo.

Myself on the Poison Project. This very good line is located in the cave of huge boulders between the Gill Seam area and the Gazebo, below Walt's Wall. Unless new beta is found it should go at V12 or so.

Justin Edl on the Weeping Wall Project. This beatiful line was a V10 that never topped out. A key hold broke and it is now a project. The top is clean and will go as well for a complete line of V12/13. It is located on the very southern tip of Central Vedauwoo on the ridge of rock that Har Mar Superstar is on, just abouve the road. It is wet most of the year from a spring in the rock.

Several good lines went up after the book was out as mentioned and Central Vedauwoo was the place for many of those.

Tim Long on the first ascent of Skinner's Reprise V8 X. The V8 crux is below Tim's feet, but the second crux is above him. One of the proudest lines I've seen put up anywhere. A fall from the top half would be a hospital trip if you're lucky. This is located between the gazebo and the Gill Seam parking.

The second crux of Skinner's Reprise. Those are slopers on all points of contact!

In 2008 just before the Vedauwoo Bouldering Competition I developed a new area in Central Vedauwoo for a surprise. It is just above the MRC parking lot (entrance to Box Canyon). Some of the good lines are below.

Cracked Sky V7/8. The line sit starts back in the middle of the wall on crimps. Ethan McMahan climbing, got the second ascent of this classic line. Maldek V9, a line I put up this fall shares the same start but exits up and left through the other hole in the sky.

Bryan Vansickle on an early ascent of Rosebud Strong V6. This is a rare steep problem for Vedauwoo.

Ethan McMahan trying the sit start project to The Power And The Glory V8.

Matthew Williams Photo
Myself back in 2004 on what was then a project. This fall I returned and completed the line A Day In The Life V10. It is located below Har Mar Superstar directly next to a picnic table on ground level. It is very technical and foot work intensive. Nick Duttle put up a line on the left side of the same boulder Curious Waters V7 (originally V9).