Some Things To Be Excited About

With only ten days remaining in the crazy of Semester's end, my excitement is close to completely over taking my other emotional fronts. In fact, it may only be hours away. Excitement has grown from a few seeds this time around. Of course the local boulders of past posts have provided a heavy load in my mind to grow a motivation, but other happenings have too.
My research in geology has taken me through the depths of central Wyoming, primarily through the Granite Mountains or Sweetwater Rocks as they are known to locals. I've known a huge amount of rock there, but now the scope of the range is better understood and damn if I'm not surprised. What a gigantic pile of great bouldering! The area is now my Master's Thesis area and will have to be looked at in it's entirety from West to East, North to South. All 500 square miles of it and it is not all granite. There is gneiss in there, hence the detailed study, and it is good gneiss. I've already found, in a couple of weeks of walking, more rock than can be climbed in this life and the next. Admittedly, most of the rock is not prime, maybe only ten percent, but that ten percent is great. The cherries will be the only focus for this life time.

The Lander crew has been active in the Granites for years, but has really focused on it in the past few seasons. Some really good stuff has gone up and some new areas found. Old areas have been rediscovered and a resurgence has begun just in time for this life time. If it's not yet clear, I'm attempting to at least see the vast majority of the very best lines in Wyoming, if not climb most of them.
Not all the excitement is in the central expanse of Wyoming. The northwest corner is a seed of great motivation. I lived up there for a number of years and return as often as possible. I had always wondered how to get it all done up there and who would eventually take over. Once again the Lander crew is doing the job and a admirable one at that. The new stuff at Falcon's Lair and Devil's Kitchen is only a fraction of the goods that has me all jazzed up. Torrey Valley has always held my imagination and in many ways is the place that transformed me to a boulderer for life. It is a bouldering paradise. Despite the amazing quality, repeats are rare in that valley. Most of the best stuff has not yet been done. This summer will help with that!

So, to hear that Chris Marley had visited and is now fired up to spend some time there, I too want some time there. It may be his visit to the valley and repeats of my now dated problems that started this whole excitement thing. He managed the second repeat of Poho Kanhi V10, one of the prouder lines I've ever put up and one of the best in Wyoming. If that weren't enough, he finished the sit start too! Here is some video of Chris on Mead boulder in Torrey Valley.

Guili Zavaschi, back a few years, on the first repeat of Poho Kanhi V10

There are a few other things that have me excited, but I'll wait until chalk is on the rock to show those things.

A Short Break at Neverland

In the depth of the reading pile, lab work, exams, research, and more lab work was faint memory of the amazing spring we've had at Neverland. Despite the growing pile of work, I was able, with a few others to escape for a day. That day is now ten days past and playing catchup for the academic side of my life has kept this post from being posted until now. It was all worth it and the day was fine. It's hard to remember now, but the day of description was predicted by some idiot weatherman to be a severe winter storm. It was almost impossible to find anyone who would commit to the day because of the forecast, but there is usually a fool somewhere. This time there were four. Seth Sivinski rode in my jeep, while Brian Horlick carried Nick Turner in the now Wyoming-reborn mini van. We drove under ominous skies to the Chunks Sector of Neverland. The area that had been walked but not yet developed seemed like a good option. it is very close to the vehicles, collects lots of sun, and would be the most sheltered should the forecast be true.
We all warmed up on new lines in a sleet storm with huge dark clouds growing around us. The day looked doomed. Then, like a Hollywood movie where the heroes struggles are rewarded by sun splitting the dark clouds, we were in the light of a beautiful and perfect day. We bouldered like crazy.
Now, I don't have much time for the this post, so I will let pictures show the day.

April Showers V2. The warm up i put up in the Sleet Storm

Ivy League Prow V4

Nick's Project. A very technical wall on the edge of the great plains.

Seth on the FA of Death of a Sienna V1. The steeper scooped wall to the right is a nice V8 named Shooting Star.

The day was proving to be one of perfect conditions. We decided to risk going "up top" and see if the Evening Wall was in good weather. Storms in the distance made it doubtful, but it was worth a try. What ensued has now become a legend in the local bouldering community. We drove a few miles of paved road and turned into the heart of the mountains on a county road of dirt. Thirty five miles of dirt and a short, but brutal two-track put us at the parking for the Evening Wall.
Brian pulls in on my passenger side and asks "How's my bumper?" Apparently he and Nick had heard a noise when they first started down the dirt road 30+ miles back. The side view mirror had shown a loose bumper and that's apparently all, so they hammered it at 50mph to the boulders.
Seth, looking from the passenger side window of my jeep does a text book double take and asks "what about your tire? It's gone! Holly shit it's gone". Gone it was, a long while back. If you have ever asked how far a vehicle can go on a rim, I can tell you it is at least 35 miles of bad roads at a pretty good pace. Seth fell on the ground laughing at the site. I lost it and cried too. Brian was a good sport and laughed with us throwing in a few moments of concern and cussing. Nick kept on it with "I told you we should have stopped" and "I heard something in the wheel well". "Yeah, that something was the tire tearing apart the bumper". Classic. We went to get his spair from under the vehicle and found is other back tire flat. The Sienna had had it. Wyoming can be extremely brutal but the bouldering is outstanding. We got the van out to the county road and went bouldering.

Seth nabbed the FA of a fantastic and big line on the Evening Wall. This Will Destroy You V4

Brian was rewarded with a quick second ascent of the line.

Nick set his sights on a very steep V5 I had put up last visit. Both he and Brian were close. Nick showed an interest in traversing the entire evening wall. Something I hope he comes back and does!

We drove home, all piled in my jeep with the dog and pads. Some pads on the roof and Brian's flat tire up there too. As night fell the snow moved in and we drove through a white out thick enough I couldn't see the county road at times. The road became soupy and slick. I was thankful to have all my tires in working order. Another reminder that this is the frontier and should be treated and prepared for in that way. My jeep is loaded with survival gear and recovery gear for the vehicle at all times. We laughed at trouble this time, but we didn't have to walk 35 miles in a white out. My jeep is also loaded with pads and chalk for the end of this damn semester.

Neverland Update: The North Wind

The north wind blew extremely cold. We went bouldering anyway, but the gale kept us from accessing most areas in Neverland. Saturday morning dawned cold with some hope that the past weeks of t-shirt weather would cool. Perhaps enough for the Triple X Project to become a reality. It is a temperamental project that requires conditions to be just so. Conditions were not just so, but just frigid. The wind carried a cold not felt in weeks, clearly carried from the northern ice sheets of our planet. We had to find cover and with sun to help warm the day. In the Aspen Grove Sector that was too warm a week ago, the wind was far too strong and the cold too deep. We went deeper into the mountain this time and decided to put up new lines on a completely new hill of rock. On a hill that had some shelter from the storm
For the day, Julian Poush , Seth Sivinski, Josh Oxner, Brandin Blanthorne, and myself made the group. After a meandering wander to find what interested us, we found a nice concentration of good rock that was generally steep. I say good rock, because it did require some cleaning and some of the surface had loose crumblies. Some areas in Neverland have truly extraordinary rock, while others have fantastic to good rock. This stuff was the good rock and far beyond most other rock in Wyoming. The group was pretty much new to the bouldering out there and were more than happy to climb on stone that is so much nicer than Vedauwoo. They quickly grew excited with all the steep stone as well.
A number of new problems went up and a few more projects got added to the list. Everyone played a part cleaning, chalking, spotting, and sharing good beta. Despite bitter wind snaking in at 60mph we had a great session in the sun and sheltered zones among the huge blocs.

Seth giving it hell on a Josh Oxner problem that was put up minutes before

Josh on a nice steep line he and Seth cleaned. The left exit is a project of Josh's and a good one

Julian working the exit moves of his new roof project. He nearly finished the line, but will have to return for the send.

As the sun shifted in the afternoon and the wind went from 60mph to a more modest 50mph we moved up the valley to a beautiful and large overhanging wall. What I have been calling the Evening Wall collects sun for the last few hours of the day. The location is well hidden from wind in a somewhat flat and open corridor. The corridor itself is because of a large fault that split the boulder from the wall opposite. It is a unique and amazing feature to boulder on. One of the cleanest and consistent angles I have seen anywhere. The wall varies in height from around 40 feet on the bottom end to 6 feet on the upper corridor. It is a massive wall over 100 feet wide.

Josh contemplating the journey of the Evening Wall

Three new problems went up in the corridor. Two on the beautiful and clean wall in the sun and another on a boulder that leans onto the wall creating an a-frame of a cave. The days group is relatively new to the bouldering game and in some cases to climbing. I gave them shit for having such an amazing feature to play on so early on in their climbing lives. Lucky bastards indeed.

Brandin on a project of fantastic quality. I'm sure it will be race to nab the first ascent on this one

One line in particular was a true gem and have to thank Julian for allowing me to try the thing. He spent the time preparing a line of perfection and had the vision to see the thing in the first place. A true pure power problem of two remarkable moves leads to 20 feet of climbing to top out . It traverses and then goes up the weakness of the wall to finish. Really, the opening two moves are the magic of the line and rest a nice compliment. A big opening move from a good but small in-cut goes full reach to a sloping edge gaston that is a perfect move distilled. Holding core tension to keep the foot on is a must. Lock off the bad hold with exacting feet and cross to an edge, then the compliment of the next 20 feet. I thought it was a V8, but haven't named it yet. 

Julian on the move of perfection

All in all the day was a good one. We left after dark and felt well about the day. It was a good group and good bouldering that I hope are a repeat in the near future. Of course we couldn't just boulder. We did walk and look for new boulders to fill our future days with bouldering. A few worth pictures are posted here as a reminder of the place.

The roof on the right side of the boulder is home to a V6/7 and Josh's project. The center prow is Julian's project. The big roof on the left is a full value line and completely high ball on the upper third!

Looking down the huge roof from the above picture. This is the bottom half of the line taken while standing on the boulder seen under the roof

Julian under an absolutely massive line. It starts in the dark back of the roof and climbs a total of 40 feet (yes, we measured) of steeply overhanging gneiss. The crux (seen in the top edge of the image) looks to be V11ish and in the last 15 feet of climbing up the huge and beautiful prow! The top of the problem is well above the edge of the image, but still possible with pads.

Neverland Update

The past weekend was a bouldering weekend. It has left me tired and sore, content, and excited for more. Saturday was a tour day, as Jamie Emerson, Brian Capps, Justin Jaeger, and Colin Horvat made the trip from Colorado. Mr. Capps has been up to Neverland on several occasions over the past seasons, while the rest of the group had yet to experience it. I had communicated with Jamie and a bit with Justin in the past year about the possibility of them coming up. Jamie had really been interested, but different schedules always disrupted previous plans. On Friday evening everything meshed and plans were put into action. Saturday dawned calm and sunny with a big day ahead. Brian Horlick was the lone Laramie climber to show up in the morning and reaped the benefit of his commitment. As a newer member of the bouldering community, Brian had yet to experience a day with a group carrying such high motivation and talent. He quickly caught on and even more quickly put down his first V6, Maybe Baby. Mr. Vansickle is a rare sight these days. As we came near the conclusion of our morning commute to the Old Neverland sector of Neverland, there he was. Being daddy of the Old Neverland sector, he had to be there.

For a day of Wyoming bouldering it was a crowd.

The goal of the group was a classic line Crazy In The Ocean V10, that a I had put up several seasons ago.It is a good example of what is possible in the area and what the rock quality is. You can read Jamie's account of the day here.
After warming up and taking some photographs of the event I decided to have a go on the central line of the Wood Grain Wall. Over the past couple of weeks my elbow had been showing signs of injury after days of climbing and I was hesitant to push it too far. In fact I was using the day to gauge it's condition and see if a few weeks of no climbing were about to open my schedule up. A few goes on the lower half of the project felt good. Pads were rearranged so both lines on the wall could be attempted and work began on the upper half of the line. Capps graciously rap-cleaned the upper part and the chalked holds encouraged a good effort up there. Good progress was made. After snapping a hold high up and taking a solid ass rocket onto the edge of the pads (Vansickle saved my season), it was clear the line would soon go. I rested and prepared, but the sun warmed the stone and we decided to move on to other sectors. Hopefully cooler stone.

Colin Horvat having a go on The Power Of Contentment V9

There was some debate about where to go, but a combination of bouldering and sport route potential was decided on. We drove into the higher and cooler side of the range. A new problem I had put up last week and one of the best in the entire area sits somewhat close to good crags. The Power Of Contentment V9 is an atypical line for most climbers, but it somehow my style. The holds are far too big to make the line feel as hard as it is. The moves are large and the core tension is great, but so is the line. With my elbow feeling completely normal I decided to shoe up and was able to repeat the line on my first attempt. It was nice having the extra pads and an actual spotter this time around. Because of the physicality of the line the group quickly tired as the day grew short. Brian Capps finished a nice line on the direct center of the roof that is unnamed at this point and is V9 or so. Colin repeated The Power Of Contentment and looked well satisfied.

Another view of the roof with Mr. Vansickle giving it hell.

The remainder of the evening was spent rally car style going from sector to sector with many other sectors flying by the convoy windows. Everyone wanted to see as much as possible. The ride was one of dust and fading light at break neck speed across the rolling plain. It was really good that everyone had four wheel drive vehicles. We saw a few things, but it was too quickly dark. One of the last boulders we looked at was the Columbine Roof. I felt bad that we didn't have time to get on it's good and long problems. The group seemed to be tired, but I did hear "I wish we would have climbed here". Saturday was a good day and will hopefully be repeated soon.
Sunday dawned cool and clear. I set aside the huge pile of reading that waited for me the day before. Again Brian Horlick was the lone Laramie boulderer to show up in the morning. Plans were to meet Bryan Vansickle who had stayed out at the rocks the night before.
A few years ago I had walked the bottom edge of a large sector of rock and great bouldering potential. Reminders of the place had surfaced while driving out the past evening. Really there was no other option than to satisfy my curiosity. The others agreed and walked into the hills with only the plan of climbing something completely new.

Brian Horlick repeating a Vansickle line with no name, all very reminiscent of Hueco Tanks type rock.

Walking directly to the closest pile of boulders we dropped pads at the first steep roof in a beautiful aspen grove. Warming up Bryan Vansickle put up an unnamed V3 on the right side of the roof and I added a long traverse down a Hueco Tanks like hall way into the roof problem. It is also unnamed and was about V4. Widely spaced crimps in the meat of the roof asked for chalk, but seemed too far apart and too small to be possible. One move in particular is absolutely massive. Feeling motivated from the day before, we shuffled pads and gave it a few goes. The massive move was very nearly stuck and the rest of the moves went shortly after that. Yet another project was born and a great one at that. It will be in the V10/11 range depending on how well the massive move finally goes. I felt close to being able to do the problem, but the day before had chewed up my fingers, so next time perhaps.

The long traverse

Feeling warm and maybe a little tired we moved across the aspen grove to a few other boulders. I stopped along the way to complete a nice V5 sloper problem. It sits along a barb wire fence in the depth of the aspen grove in a peaceful Wyoming setting. The tranquility of the location is what hooked me on that one. Meanwhile Bryan and Brian went to put chalk on a long roof.

The long roof. Something like Ghetto Simulator in Hueco Tanks, but closer to V7 

The sun once was once again warming the rock a bit too much. The long roof was too warm, but a beautiful line hidden in the shade was ready to go. Mr. Horlick once again reaped the benefit of actually going bouldering and nabbed the finest first ascent of his very young career. It is a beautiful and yet unnamed V4/5. I have been really impressed with his commitment to bouldering and apatite for new lines. He has what it takes to live the dream.

Brian on the opening moves of his new beauty

And ladies, this guy is single.

All feeling a good level of tired we called it a day and decided to head home. We opted to take a loop back to the vehicles where we had not yet walked. Passing a huge roof that had been previously looked at we joked about how good the day and location was. How could we be so lucky?

Fools often make conclusions without all the evidence in hand. A ship of fools sailed down the hill into some deep trees. Hidden there is a monster's den. A roof so big and so proud it can't be believed. Too big and the landing is dead flat. Obviously some giant had cleared his floor of useless bumps. We were flat out shocked that this huge roof with nearly prefect landing could hide so well. 50 yards away and it disappeared in the timber. From all other angles it disappeared in a shorter distance. I cussed a lot.

Yes it's big and yes it has lines out of it.

Men that now need counseling to get through their day.

It snows now. Hope is that the unusually warm temperatures will rest for a while. Spring is what we need, even if for only a few weeks of good bouldering. Obviously there are some things that need doing.